Hi there Bill, what happened was when Scat made the first lot of 159mm rods, they made the small end20mm instead of 21mm. The 144mm rods were right at 20mm. Where did you get you rods from mate, last thing I want is small end rattle due to crap bearing material
Good luck with the build Gary.... I am now painfully aware that ITBs on a 2L 16v & the 020 box/transmission is not a match made in heaven...
Any thoughts on I know Chris / Matt D's old car had probs with the centre main wearing out and ruining the crank, the 6A I've got has the older style with the 4 seperate thrust washers, Mart said you can retro-fit the later type centre with the integral washers. Edited by: GVK
Yep, makes you wonder about going cable change O2A, it's a lot stronger set up, but while/if the 020 is working , it's a nicer box to use. Then you've got to buy a diff again, and so it goes on.
Sounds like a cracking setup Gary, best of luck with it ! Have you considered modifying the combustion chamber to take advantage of the extra CC's ? Mart
Nope? In one engine calculator program I used, it said the ideal CC volume for that CR/bore/stroke is 52cc ,that's 'a bit' bigger than mine are now. I don't fully understand it all to be fair, but I'm all ears.. http://www.johnmaherracing.co.uk/enginecalc.htm Edited by: GVK
looking at a set of those scat rods after i gubbed one of mine. they list scirroco and golf ones on some sites with different measurements. does anyone know which ones are correct for a 1800 8v screamer? also gvk are you getting your bit's sent marked as a gift to sneakey the vat? VW SCIRROCCO* 2-5670-1992-981-787 1.992" Journal,.981" Width,.787" Pin, ARP 2000 Bolts. VW GOLF* 2-6244-1992-7894-981 1.992" Journal,.7894" Width,.981" Pin, ARP 2000 Bolts.
Looks like a great project Gary sounds like itll be a beauty when its done look forward to seeing the updates, Will K jet be ok with the higher CR or are you going for another sort of injection system? Pete
Mines fine, can't remember what it is exactly, but lots more than stock, JEs with I think about 11.5:1 or somat, might be as high as 12:1
your going to spend lots of pennies with the rebuild mate, th oil pump and crank plate and gasket from VaG will cause you to stutter. The HG number on mine is 048103383D,
9A CR is 10:1, so it's a bit higher but too much, Iguana's pistons are well proud of the head at TDC, it's a wonder they don't whack the head pol8, apparently they use UPS and you nearly always get charged, I'll find out all in good time no doubt. Not sure which rods for an 8v sorry. I've ordered the Scirroco rods (144mm) the 'Golf' rods are 159mm for the tall block engines. The 5670 in the part number is the length in inches. Pete, sticking with k-jet for now, one thing at a time Steph, how much was the oil pump?
The deal with these 'superior' bearings is basically as follows. A lot of american replacement thrust bearings are one piece integrated with the number 3 main bearing itself(ie both thrusts and the shell are one and the same) as opposed to a separate shell and thrusts. Basically this means that the material is a compromise and they never fit properly. Premature failure and lessened bearing life tend to result. I wasn't personally aware you could even buy a one piece bearing and have only ever used the three piece type assuming that this was standard(ks for example). In europe and over here since the most common brand of replacement bearings seem(at least in my limited experience) to be kolbenschmidts which come as three piece the problem tends not to arise. So they aren't really superior, more not inferior. Gary, you planning on running standard bearings, or are you going all heavy duty? And I always use this vw orientated engine calculator, never let me down. http://www.not2fast.com/vw/stuff/vw_engines.shtml Bill, I think hotgolf answered the question. The original batch all had to be rebushed, not that it presents a major issue. I hadn't heard of the material itself being substandard, although I think the scats are quite new so I don't suppose many are showing signs of small end wear yet in most engines. Speak to some of the high boost turbo americans who use them and see what they think about them in turbo applications, where I would have thought problems like that would arise sooner. Edited by: jimmy8v
Jimmy,what are my options for 'heavy duty' bearings? Thanks for the link, that's the one Mart uses. Edited by: GVK
Interesting you ask that, I've been trying to find out what my options are on this. I've been trying to track down some 'heavy duty' bearings for ages. I've always used ks, and have asked a few people what they use, most say that even in high rpm race stuff they also use ks. The problem with the heavy duty bearings is that they are so much less forgiving, which is why i'm still in two minds. Because they are so much harder they take abuse better, but then they don't just absorb particles like a conventional soft bearing does, so terminal crank damage can be more easily caused. Although thats assuming you're getting crap in there in the first place, theoretically mega frequent oil changes and a properly clearanced engine and it won't cause a problem. I think in all honesty i'm going to see if i can track down some for the 8v because it's probably going to need frequent tear downs anyway, and i've suffered quite a few bearing failures. Although i suspect they are due tobad tolerances and lack of rod resizing-not mentioning names.But i'll give it a miss for the abf i'm building which will see more road miles and I want bullet proof reliability and longevity from. In terms of availability, none of the major bearing companies seem to do an option, I looked into getting custom vandervell's made, but they were asking mega money and if im going to be rebuilding regularly then I will need a steady supply. I'd love to know what Sorg and other german builders use, but if they told me they'd probably have to kill me. So I'm not really much help. If you're not turning super high revs i'd personally say go standard ks, make sure they are plastiguaged properly and you stretch the rod bolts and you'll probably find them much less grief and perfectly reliable. My 2 pence.
Gary I had a quote from vw for a KR oil pump and it was over 100 squid + vat. The 9A is different so it's bound to be more expensive . I can't wait to see how your engine goes, Are you building it yourself ??
G the oil pump was double the GSF price so 80 quid +, but look what happens when you dont invest in a decent oil pump in a 6a.
Kev,I'm bolting the engine together. I've built engines before,but not with such trick internals as this one. Jimmy, ta for the info. Edited by: GVK
Fucking handy for checking your oil though. No need for a dipstick, just look through the hole in the block.....
