Ok 276 is not that lairy, more so than boggo KRs tho! So if its not top secret sprint info, what cams do you currently have with the HC pistons?
seems like I have a lot to learn about cams and heads and stuff! a lot of good info here, but I am looking for subtitles while reading it. I have a few questions, but let me start by saying I have a 89 gti with the stock 1.8l 16v head but the block has been swapped out with a 9a 2.0l. the Previous previous owner did this, and also installed a "euro intake cam". what "size" is the euro intake cam? what size is the intake manifold? 40mm? 42mm? 50? I race rallycross (newbie) and I have a fully custom gearbox that gives me massive amounts of torque in second gear. I like how the 16v engine gives me all the torque I need at low rpms right up to the 7200rpm rev limiter. I would like to see about getting more out of this engine, but I dont know where to start. - it would help if I knew exactly what I had in it, and what all of these terms you guys all keep using. is there a glossary with an explanation of terms around? forgive me for being so green. I learn really fast, but I need to start somewhere.
Just a bit of info that i think everybody agrees on. A head from the man in the shed, see group buy thread is probably the best start, followed by a good setup and WUR (warm up regulator) mod doing by somebody like stealth, should be looking at 170-180hp and 145-150ftlb on stealths rollers with those just that doing. Choice of inlet manifold is 50mm or 42mm, You can tell what one you have by looking at the gaps between where the plugs go, if the manifold intakes are straight as they go over the head it's probably a 42mm one, if they pinch in and there very little room for the plug caps then you've probably got a 50mm one. 50 mm is supposed to give more topend and 42 more midrange, but nothing proven i don't think. Cams are a can of worms, i run standard KR cams, some use a modified exhaust cam and some use shrink/cat/newman etc of various profiles. With wildly varying results, generally speaking K jet does not seem to like aftermarket cams, but several people have managed 200hp (ish at Stealth) running on k jet still. Hope thats helpful, be interested to hear more about yr car and the series you'll be running in.
good info, some more questions tho: whats a "vernier"? what is k-jet?" whats the lift and duration of a "euro intake cam"? why would someone want to have the head skimmed or the block decked? I need good power through the entire range of rpms. I would also like to raise my rev limiter a bit - say, 7800 or so for that little bit extra. has any of you had experience with this? again, let me apologize for these newbie questions. I learn fast, but I am just getting into engine work. but ask me how to rebuild a tranny and Ill walk you through every step. I can even help you machine your own specialty tools for the proccess.
Vernier = Vernier cam pulley. It's adjustable for making small and accurate changes to cam timing to maximise power output - used in conjunction with a rolling road setup. K-jet = Bosch K-Jetronic Injection system. Std injection fitted to Mk2 Golf 16v, early 8v's, and many other makes including Audi, Porsche and more. Head skimming or decking the block increases the compression of the engine, and produces more power (up to the point where the extra stress destroys the engine). Skimming the head is easier to organise, but decking the block retains the shape of the combustion chamber in the head, which some say helps produce more power and torque by better gas-flow. If you're going to 7800 rpm, what's the spec of the bottom end of the engine? Has it been lightened and balanced? Lightened flywheel?
I have not done any work to the block. it is a 2.0 9a block tho, not the stock block. flywheel is stock. I am looking at upgrading the clutch package already, and a new flywheel with that. I am a fairly accomplished machinist with a full shop available to me. but I have not done any machine work on engine components before. where does one begin when lightening and balancing the bottom end? is this where "knife edging" was mentioned? has anyone bothered to try to bore the engine out and use larger cylinders?
Another quick note to point out, especially if you skimming heads and using a compression calculator is that if you remove 10 thou from your head compared to 10 thou from the block, you'll increase the compression more from the block as the head chamber isn't round where as the bore of the block is. The head chamber is roughly 2 thirds the size of the bore. If you going to machine a block, don't use T max tooling etc. or you'll end up with a nearly shagged block as I found out. Use a surface grinder. A T max will chip the bores and tend to bounce off the cast iron rather than give a clean cut. Todays gaskets prefer a fine finsish compared to course one so the same goes for the head(thats if you've got a surface grinder with a big enough bed.One in work with me has a 6x2 ft. bed)
having just changed my valver over to a 2 litre this thread is very usefull!! Only thing is ive got an audi 80 ACE bottom end. is all the info still relevant?? an also has anyone ever bored out to a 2.1 or is this not possible. please excuse my ignorance but im learning all the time
Reading this post with a great deal of interest as im currently building a 9a 2.0l for my mk2Rocco... Instead of just building one up with all the suposed best parts its been very helpful doing a load of research... especially with the wealth of knowledge on 2.0l 16v on here.. The current state of things are: 9a block, skimmed and re-honed balanced rods, and crank ARP'd new bearings/shells standard pistons flywheel lightened slightly sach FR clutch rebuilt 020 2y box new water and oil pumps all new seals and gaskets throughout baffled sump and windage tray The head is where im undeceided though: Its going to be a ported head, skimmed to high 11's to 1 The cam choice is where i need the advice.. split of not.. how mcuh lift/duration etc... schrick seems like the obvious choice, but what other options do i have? im not looking for peak power, more of a good balance.. I will be running weber 45's with MBE ignitition management
^^^ In a rocco!!??? ^^ all that fatty bum bum lazy 6 cylinder weight??? it would pull endo's when i hit the brakes!!!
So really what are people opinions on cam choice, straight of split profiles?? advantages weaknesses of both? there are so many choices out there..
problem with split duration schricks is getting the timing right - personally I would stick with what they sell like a pair of 276's or 268's or 260's - if your running a car with a maf sensor then forget the 276's, 268 inlet will run but a pair of 268's wont, 260's are fine and Cat/MOT friendly. If your on Kjet then any of them are game so long as you can get enough fuel in. Firms like Cat sell split duration sets and give you timing info appropriately - if your car is fairly stock, stick with longer on the exhaust so long as your ignition/fuelling system is up to it. Approx 170hp can be got with KR or ABF cams - anyone telling you they have more than this with a standard cylinder head is talking cobblers and std abf injectors are only good for 180hp anyhow. Rob Rob
so on a standard 2.0 16v mk2 what would be the first thing you would change. obviously a stealth set up would be included in the mix that goes without saying lol
