Hey. I have a Mk2 2e2 carb on my car. I have a few issues with it! Firstly..she idles so high for a long time? just over 200 revs!. Get a little annoying at times I must say. Secondly, when in second, if i put my foot down, she sort of waits a while then suddenly just lets it all o and shoots off. I am slightly concerned that this is not good. I just feel what its not quite right and am not sure what I can do about it? I looked into getting a webber carb, but woudl prefere not to have to change the whole thing. Maybe I can just service it........
Hi, I'm guessing you meant 2000? Sounds v. familiar. Look at the FAQ by rubjonny, you'll probly need at least a new waxstat (30 ish), probably the coolant-channel o-ring too (which is cheap, but a bummer to fit). Hesitation on foot down could be lots of things, but as it does 'shoot off' eventually, most likely a dirty/sticking secondary throttle plate. Best cleaned from below with the carb right off, or just lots of carb cleaner into it when running at reasonably high revs. Best of luck, Pete
Either, I got my waxstat from GSF, o-ring from VAG. Don't have part numbers on me, think they might be in the FAQ? Before buying anything though, it'll be worth doing some diagnostics. The simplest test for an o-ring prob is to let the car warm up fully (temp gauge vertical) then, carefully, put a finger on the housing of the autochoke assy. If you can hold your finger on it for more than 1 second, you either have asbestos fingers, or impaired coolant flow through waxstat and autochoke. Most older cars suffer this unfortunately. The waxstat can be tested by unscrewing it from the front of the carb (with everything cold!, leaving the water hoses on) rotate 'til you can see the pin. Push the pin with your best calibrated 30 Newtons of force (decent push with a screwdriver etc). The pin shouldn't go further in than 2mm above the flange face. If it does go further in on pushing, or is already further in, it's 'code F'. [:^(]
GSF. Not sure if VW do the waxstat. When you say the revs are high for a long time, when they fall does it happen suddenly within a couple of seconds or is it a gradual thing? You could try putting the waxstat in boiling water, this sometimes sorts them out - I think it's mentioned in the FAQ. Service kits are available for the 2E2, try webcon. I think they're around 25.
Cool. Whats the service kits called? Yeah it idles really high then drops down quite quicly. But it idles really high when the temp has reached normal and even on a really hot day! I am ever so confused....
I got one from UK Fuel Parts their pn G045 IIRC, only contains 'refurb' items (gaskets, o-rings, bits to fix accel. pump assy and power valve assy; not waxstats, 'bigger bits' etc). Does sound like your waxstat's had it, at least...
Couldn't find any mention of kits on webcon (though I'm sure they used to). Email sales@southerncarbs.co.uk asking for a service kit for a pierburg 2E2 and your car and they should get you a price etc. Have a look at the back left corner of your carb and make sure all the wires are attached to the spade connectors as these sometimes fall off. Also do a forum search for TTV as I think EZ_Pete has a technique for confirming (or ruling out) this as a cause.
Many thanks guys, I managed to order one! should hopefully get it tomorrow and them be sorted. Will change it over on the weekend! then will get hold of the old wax stat and change that over. Is it easy to do.... and also whats a good carb clearner and where does one get it?
Sorry, order one of which? I may have misled you accidentally into thinking that the coolant-channel o-ring was part of the G044 kit? It isn't. And be prepared for 'fun' if you are planning to try to replace said o-ring. It's straightforward only to the very experienced/lucky. Took me bleedin' ages and multiple attempts. Shexuel started a thread a couple of weeks ago about the 'impossibility' of the job... http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122296 Carb cleaner is a bit pricey for a good 'un, but worth the ten or fifteen quid I reckon. Any motorists shop should have a range/selection. Pete
I ordered a service kit... from the website that you gave me. If i am going to sort it out then i am going to do the whole thing.. makes sense!
OK, sounds like you're keen. Coolant-channel O-ring and inlet manifold gasket are easyish to find on GSF, I think; if you have any trouble PM me. You may find a metre or two of their 3mm vacuum tube worth getting to replace all the vac hoses, also check the carb mounting flange's condition, if it's the original it probably has perished and might be leaking air. While you're at it, diagnostics-wise, check out Drew21's contribution to the FAQ thread regarding the pull-down unit. These are often in a failed/failing condition due to the vacuum diaphragm having split. Will only affect the early stages of the cold-start though, I think. Failure of the electrical heater in the autochoke, or its thermoswitch, or the wiring/connections to these, will also lead to over-choking/over-revving, I believe. Pete
Brillaint!! I have another question, to do with the vaccum hose. On my air box on the left hand side, I have two vacuum pipes. there are also two connectors on the air box. One if the hoses is plugged in, and the other one has been capped off? Is this right, or should both of them be plugged in and which way round?
Look at the vacuum diagram on rubjonny's 2e2 faq thread in this section. Look at the plan below the coloured drawings. The front nipple connects to the cold air flap further down the inlet pipe. The rear nipple connects to the carb.
Ah, another old chestnut! I've not heard of one being capped off, but these are often associated with 'carb icing' probs. The stub on the airbox thermostat nearest the carb should have a pipe going to the very bottom of the carb at the back (see the 'vac wiring' diagrams in jonny's FAQ). The other stub should go to a diaphragm on top of the air intake 'trumpet' operating a flap that opens and closes the warm-air feed as required. A thread I started a while back deals with how to recondition the thermostat itself, which may well need attention too. Rubjonny's method, toward the end of the thread, looks like a very easy way to sort it. "Mend your Mk2 Driver's airbox thermostat" is the thread in question. Most commonly, the flexible rubber pipes terminating the thinner, hard transparent vac pipes, have degraded and cracked, making this whole system fail. If the pipe going to the carb looks to have oil inside it, the thermostat could probably do with a clean out. Also check your crankcase ventilation hose going into the other side of the airbox for crud/blockage. Must do some 'work' work now... Edit: just read max's answer: as usual, my ramblings can be summarised in a sentence! Pete
