I was wondering if anyone knew of a good one/ could send me one they had saved. I've been searching the forums and googling for days now. I'm looking to convert my 2e2 setup to a 32/34 DMTL, however I'm a bit clueless as to what needs blocking off on the pierburg, what needs routing, where to route the choke cable into the cabin, how to set up, how tight to torque up the carb so that I don't screw up the mount etc. Any tips would be appreciated
Lovely job Rubjonny, much obliged! gbk, afraid not buddy, I was planning on rebuilding it before selling it on. It's absolutely frigged so probably wouldn't be much cop anyway - it's done 160k without a rebuild (or I've got nothing to indicate a rebuild) so you can only imagine.
OK. No problem. I was just after spare parts really. I've got a couple of old carbs, but not the auto choke mechanism. The one on my car has the heater spring snapped, so won't warm up quick enough. Annoyingly there was one on ebay last week, but I missed the deadline and it went for 6! Ones on there at the mo are daft prices.
I've just got a few questions, the throttle lever thing - it goes down, then tension increases and it goes down a bit more. When I'm setting the cable so I want it to go "uberdown" or just down to where it feels like it should. Also wondering about where to run the choke cable, is there a best place on the bulkhead to feed it through?
you want to set it so that with your foot to the floor, the accellerator linkage on the carb is only just as far as it will go. the resistance you feel is the 2nd butterfly opening I expect. as for the choke cable start at the dash side remove the choke cable blank under the wheel (theres a nut on the back holding it in) then you should see the hole the cable should go thru at a convenient location for the choke cable blank
You're a bleeding star man! Cheers for that. So I want to go so far as the 2nd butterfly will open then?
yeah manually pull on the throttle linkage on carb, when it stops is where you want it to be when foot is flat to the floor. i say only just there as if you put it too tight you'll bend the throttle pedal arm
In order to be a final pain, it says to blank off the vacuum feed to the brake servo, won't this knacker up the braking system? Is it better to keep it connected?
it means the small vacuum pipe nipple to the carbs, i.e. to the green ball, pull down unit etc. just put a bit of vac pipe with a screw in it onto the nipple
Noticed among one of the many gremlins this car is chucking at me the nipples were snapped off the non return valve to the brake servo. Do I need the one to the dizzy to be connected or can I just araldite over the holes left behind and walk away whistling like it never happened? I've not been able to start it yet to see the effects, fuel hose wasn't long enough to reach the carb, another order into the suppliers lol
yes you need the dizzy vac line for the advance mech to work properly, see if you can find a metal nipple end from scrappy or something then bond that in. failing that find another valve and use a selection of hoses to make up a new pipe, just make sure the hose you use doesnt collapse under vacuum
