4 door golf chassis build - experiment

This thread is freakin' awesome, keep up the good work!

 

Go away ............
Its not fair that you can do this and i cant

.. next pic please !!!

 

whats your actual day job dude?

 

Thanks everyone. I'm glad people Are still enjoying this thread. Makes me want to keep posting.

I swapped over my modified rear beam yesterday. With one coilover disconnected and my body weight hanging on the free side I got about 4 inches of deflection. This is the stock base model beam with no integral sway bar. The same test on the mk3 beam that I boxed and made bushings for resulted in about a half inch deflection. Pretty stiff, but hopefully not too stiff.

I have yet to drive the car hard with this beam but it feels good so far.

Next I will put a stock sway bar up front.

 

I do general performance car fabrication. Right now I'm building a chromoly targa top X brace for a mkIV Toyota supra. I'm building an intercooler setup for a turbocharged mini, and some brake ducts for an r35 gtr track car.

 

Beams.

 

I follow you on instagram just to ogle over these photo's. You have some serious skills obvious gained from your trade i must say i am envious and wish i had done better at school and gone on to do motorsport at university ahhh the if i knew now stories

 

Thank you. I try to post a little of everything I do on instigram. I'm building the intercooler for that turbo mini right now. To be honest I didn't go to school for anything. I'm 23 years old and spent a year at college for mechanical engineering. I dropped out, because of math, spent about 2 years in and out of the hospital trying to save my left knee. Then I decided I should take a machinist class so I could build parts for my motorcycles. After that a good machinist job opened up and I took it. I enjoyed it but it left little time for my passion of building and modifying cars and bikes. Another job opened up working on cars so I took it. I moved three hours away and just had a daughter 3 months ago. I'm sure that will slow down my personal projects significantly but I'm ok with that. Hopefully I can get my hands on some neat things in the future.

 

I always thought the hubs were cast and welding to them was something best avoided ? Especially when you are talking about the brakes ?

Why have you mounted the caliper at the opposite side to usual (ie, same side as the tie rod) ?


Some great fab work in this project.

 

Really nice modifications to the hubs.

These came out of the Renault Sport Dieppe Factory for the Clio V6 race cars:



Although they eventually changed to Cast aluminium motorsport items, these served for a couple of years I think.

 

The hubs are forged and weld great. I put the calipers on the back to move some weight towards the middle of the car to lessen the pole moment. Ill never feel the difference but I like doing things others haven't. Look at all the top Supercuts and you will see the calipers towards the middle of the car.

 

How common is it for these differentials to break the rivits and grenade with stock power levels? Mine has over 700k miles on it and I think it's going out. I thought it was an axle problem at first but I just replaced the old axle and the problem persists. The strange part is its intermittent. For five or ten minutes it will feel perfect then it will start grabbing and grinding and shaking the car violently. It's worst at about 45 to 90 mph.

 

It's common enough. I popped a few rivets through the casing on a factory 8v before.
Every 020 I opened as of late has signs of the rivets starting to walk.
If you can, use a bolt kit on the diff in your replacement.

Gurds

 

Some epic engineering going on here

 

Pulled a tranny off a junk motor. Hopefully it's in better shape than mine.

 

hey man , best of luck with that , I love seeing your updates!

 

Turns out it wasn't the diff. Something found its way into the bell housing and went to town.

 

Loving this. Slight worry about some of the fab work around the hub. Modern welding must be hugely better than oxy/acc I used to use, as everything I used to do
like this managed to warp stuff like there was no tommorrow.

 

The biggest difference is the way the heat is concentrated exactly where you put it. Also in only takes a second or two before the parent material puddles and you can start adding filler. It keeps warpage to a minimum but it still happens. I tried to keep it as cool as possible around the bearing bore by only welding about 10mm at a time. I should probably check it with a bore gauge to make sure it's not out of round. I'm sure that would destroy bearings quickly.