First of all not sure how useful this will be, but since I used FAQ's and flicks of other people to attempt my first engine conversion I thought it would only be right if I did the same for other people to use. It will probably be more use for the novice/intermediate mechanic such as myself where pictures say a thousand un-technical words ! In hindsight I should have taken more detailed pictures but you've got Haynes or Bentley for that ! Well here goesKK The New Lump ! Still in half 6a trim (inc sump, oil cooler, and alternator) with TSR 4 Branch and Magnex system (+ spare 16v ECU and pedal!) Bad picture of 6a lump with water pump removed. Can see the Oil cooler housing points forwards and coolant pipes are different to KR (and dodgy alternator bracket) Nice and clean in the cam housing! Should after a full rebuild only 2 and half years ago! Before going under the Knife.. what the hell am I about to do Undoing the driveshafts (scuse my friends fat fingers ) Front cross-member(s) removed (easier than first thought, only 4 bolts holding the front end!) to make the removal process a lot easier. And she's gone --> Ex to the Next! plus a cheeky can or 2..3.... of XXXX for the efforts! Next day and out comes the angle Grinder ! Bit worrying as my mate has been gagging to use it! Saves a lot of fecking around with trying to get the down pipe through that gap above the steering rack and get the nice 4 Branch in!(mind we did change position of the cut as this was for more of a sparkling picture!) A final shot of the KR lump with all ancillaries still on, inc Power steering, copious amounts of WD40 on the engine.. 6a lump showing ancillary mounting points (poor pic as I slipped ) You feeling lucky punk! All the KR ancillaries bolted on to the 6a with a lick of Hammerite and oil cooler twist. The oil cooler just requires a 24mm (I think) nut to undo it. Unscrew, replace seal (Part no 15498 - VAG reference 038 117 070a --> from GSF) unless you want all your oil around your engine in 30 secs! And re-tighten at the correct angle. Also if transferring power steering, you will need to change the respective water pump pulleys otherwise the belt will rub. 6a Lump now sitting pretty with front cross-member back on, together with a nice Vibratech addition! ( I recommend removing this as removing and especially refitting is made far easier) Started wrapping the 4 Branch out the car to keep heat down and prevent melting through the steering rack boot. Oh and get enough wrap to start with as I ran out leaving a backbreaking job of doing it in the car ! You need more than you think. Here you can see the differences in the sumps (KR on the left and 6a on the right) the 6a has a nasty straight front with the plug at the bottom ready to be wipped off at the first speed bump. Remember to swap the oil pick up's too and be careful as the plastic is brittle when unclipping the KR one to get access to the allen key bolts. i broke a little piece Nearly there! Uhmmmm looks good no I used my standard 16v ecu and just taped up the plugs I didn't need. I got a spare 16v ecu with a cut down loom to run carbs if any needs one!..? Also used a Rover throttle cable since the 16v one was too short to reach the throttle linkage. I used an SU fuel pump from a Jag XJ6 and mounted it on the handy and perfectly placed bolts on the left hand side arch turret ! I just unplugged the injection pump under the car and left it there as an extra filter but also because it saves a feck of lot of work removing it. Ideally the SU pump needs to be further down so as to not strain it so much increasing its longevity. Finally block off the blue return fuel line, as this is not needed for carbs. and.......... Job Done! Way fecking Hey. Last touch was to get the Webbers tuned at Redline Tuning in Iver (highly recommended for anyone with carbs!!) pushing out a nice 150 odd bhp at the WHEELS and 150 odd lbs of torque! Not sure about flywheel figures though. This is with a 6a inlet cam (for now) and sock filters which is a shame to hide those shiny trumpets [:^(] Compare this to my old 1800 KR (with 17's) at stealth with a measly 108bhp at the WHEELS (148bhp at the fly) and 121lbs torque. It pulls harder than what ever pun you'd like to enter here! Right from 2500rpm to 6000ish with the best sound track! Hope this has been of some use to anyone thinking attempting this conversion And mods feel free to place this where appropriate since I wasn't sure Cheers Sife1 Edited by: sife1
Good thread mate, look out for a 16v RR day at Stealth to compare with us lot still on K-Jet - Mine makes 149 ATW @ Stealth
thanks for the comments just thought i'd contribute after all this time with some actual useful stuff. it aint that hard this engine swapping business end of Jan aint it? not sure if i'll be able to make it as i'm very skint for obvious reasons and only just got paid [:^(]
Ive not book the 16v shoot out day yet...but i will it will be about 2 months time i would say. nice install tho...can wait to hear it on full rant
No it's in the back garden as its a slightly different black to mine- makes a good spare though! but it will be used to hone my spraying skills on whenever my mate gets his compressor- full respray in x months/years???.....
Looking good, we've done the same thing with the downpipe to save the hastle of dropping the subframe and removing the gear linkage and stuff! One thing though - you've got the wrong pulleys for the PAS setup. The PAS belt should be going round an extra pulley on the water pump, looks like your running the non-PAS water pump pulley. My valver is the same strangely enough, i've got the correct pulleys on their way to me though - thanks flusted
LMAO! Nice one dude! Good to see my car going to good uses... mind you its back on the road again now! The old 16v! But not by me, someone else
Correct me if i'm wrong but are you saying the PS system on the original standard KR engine is wrong? I think I understand what you mean but i don't see how the PS belt can fit round another pulley mounted on the water pump? I don't have any problems with the PS on the 6A..or on the old KR Edited by: sife1
No, you dont have the "original" PAS setup as far as I can see. Theres nothing wrong with the way that its setup there, it will work fine, its just that its not correct. The original KR setup uses a longer belt, and there is an extra pulley on the water pump. The original PAS belt setup is meant to go round the waterpump, crank and PAS pump. It looks like what someone has done on yours is use a non-PAS waterpump pulley, and put a shorter belt round the PAS pump and the crank.
uhmmmm, that's interesting. So basicly the water pump has been renewed at some point with the wrong pulley (ie one with 1 V-belt groove instead of 2). Where is that belt from do you reckon? just in case i have to renew at some point. Thanks
Yup, looks like it mate. The exact same thing has been done to mine strangely enough! Im guessing whats happened is that the bush on the PAS waterpump pulley has worn out and they've replaced it with a non-PAS one so they've fitted the shorter belt. No idea whatsoever what the belt is off, your local VAG should have a stack of belts in stock though, you're bound to find one the same size. Im fitting the proper pulley onto mine along with the correct belt. EDIT: the only thing is, I think the correct waterpump pulley is actually smaller so it turns the waterpump impeller quicker, which might keep it a bit cooler... Edited by: smithy
Mine's the same as that in the pic, the earlier valvers had that double pulley, the two spin independently IIRC and have caused problems with overheating. The later 16v mk2s had the single set up from the factory. Edited by: GVK
nICE job! Well done! Tony's great isnt he? (Redline!) So i take it that his rolling road is giving power figures again!
Well you learn something new every day... thanks gary. Looks like mine is actually setup correctly then, PAS belt is well offline though from the crank pulley
