6A into Mk2 - Help Please - Parts list?

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Stu, Aug 25, 2005.

  1. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    yeah you can change the realease bearing in 20 mins with out any hassle
     
  2. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    You can do it without an engine crane, but it's definitely easier with one.

    Do you know about unbolting the front panel and bumper to improve clearance?
     
  3. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Got the engine crane now, I also decided to paint the engine block after all to make a nice neat job of it all. :) Hoping for a nice dry day tomorrow and an early start.

    Regarding the front panel, I'm reluctant to remove it as I don't want to disturb the A/C condensor and pipework as it looks fragile and all works at the moment! Looks like I'll be lifting the engine and 'box up and over the front panel then.

    Am I right in thinking the order of removing the engine and 'box should go something like this...

    1. Drain oil & coolant, disconnect battery earth
    2. Disconnect driveshafts at gearbox end (is this easy to do?)
    3. Disconnect all pipes/wiring/hoses that might get in the way.
    4. Support engine with a jack underneath and undo mounts one at a time
    5. Attach crane and crank away? :p

    Is it ok to lift the engine by the two loops on the head or should I put a strap underneath the engine to take the weight rather thank just lifting by the head?

    Thanks for all the info so far :)
     
  4. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    The two loops are fine, that's what they are there for..... disconnecting the shafts is easy, but make sure you use the right 12-point bit, clean out the socket first, and hammer the bit in so you don't strip them.
    Otherwise, you've got it all right....... You can undo all the mounts at once and not bother jacking the engine, just lift the engine off the mounts with the engine crane.
    Oh, and take the bonnet off first.....
     
  5. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Air Con...oooohhhh lah-de-dah!!

    Sounds about right

    Don't forget the gear linkage, exhaust (manifold->downpipe joint is one way, or you can do it at the manifold->head joint.)

    If it's a PAS car, I prefer to unbolt the PAS pump and hoses from the engine, rather than have to refill the system afterwards. Up to you though.

    I also use a roll of masking tape and pen, to mark up some of the electrical connections as I take them off, and some freezer bags to keep the bits together for each area of the car.
     
  6. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Good advice, cheers everyone. Currently waiting for the rain to subside, occupied my time with a practice lift of the 6a engine on the crane in the garage. Seems fine and it's allowed me to paint the back of the block.

    Noted about the PAS pump, was hoping to just undo it from the engine and tie it up rather than have to drain the system. I hope to do the same with the the A/C compressor to save opening the system up.

    I will disconnect the exhaust manifold at the head as I've had it apart there before not too long ago so should be less chance of breakages.

    Will take some pics as I go along and start a members motors thread about my progress. :)
     
  7. DuBDuDe Forum Member

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    Yeah tell me about Im no novice but this is the most complex thing ive ever done.

    Ive rebuilt lots of bike engines but its a bit differnet when u are doing engine swaps espec when they involve new injection systems, engine looms etc.

    Shouldnt be too bad tho the main bits i have to swap(other than the engine of course) are the induction system, fuel pump, engine loom which plugs straight in provided i get the right one for my fuse box which is a pre 90 so CE1 loom(and relays that go with) Need lots of pipework too but im tempted to buy a samco kit to save the hassle of finding all the pipes.

    Ive got a mountain of parts in my shed and garage at the mo. Maybe ill start work on it sometime soon. Good luck with yours mate.
     
  8. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Made some decent progress yesterday, drained oil and coolant, removed PAS pump, alternator, most of A/C compressor brackets (it's very complicated!) and belts but got stuck on the driveshafts as the torx bits I have wouldn't fit them.

    I believe from searching on here I need an M8 12 sided spline bit thingy so locating one of those today then will carry on after work. :) Looking good so far!
     
  9. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Members motors thread with progress pics here...

    Click...

    [:D]
     
  10. sife1 Forum Member

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    Good effort there! will be well worth it when it's done!


    One simple gasket i haven't seen noted is the water pump one matingto the block - not sure if that comes with the new pump or not? Just thinking it will be apain to changeif it leaks once everything is back in place! Ignore if you have done a new one.


    Best of luck geezer
    Edited by: sife1
     
  11. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Good question! The new water pump as two 0-rings with it, are these the ones you mean or is there a gasket as well? You're right, I wouldn't want to have to take it all apart again to fix a leak!
     
  12. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    The O rings are what you need.
     
  13. STU

    Stu Forum Junkie

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    Ok great - thanks for the reply, much appreciated :)
     

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