The larger switch/connector, with the Red-trace wires, is for the brake lamps themselves. Of the other two, one way of finding which is the brake switch would be to check for the safety feature; hold the rpm steady and the brake switch should cut it back to idle.
big one with red/yellow and red/black is brake light switch as said. then blue switch is cruise brake, black is cruise clutch edit: or to put it another way, white/yellow wire is cruise brake switch, white/red is cruise clutch
That's a fair test dougie, that'd work great actually. I'm after knowing which is which so I can splice up to the mk4 brake switch. Don't want to touch the clutch switch at all. All good to start soldering now Thanks guys.
I thought I had the mk2 stalks for cruise but I do not so for now I'll wire up some buttons on the dash blanks. Thought this would be fun for a temp on/off switch...from a P38 range rover lol
If you can get the pins out of the cruise brake switch those will pop right into the MK4 plug housing, just need to splice the brake light switch wires. You can get the pins easy if you have crimp tools as well, junior/power timer
I did also learn that I have an early mk4 brake switch with 'J' in the part number. Is this a problem to fit?
everything you need to know and more about MK4 brake switches http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315 the very latest type is different again, heres the procedure for that one:
I'm having trouble removing the old cables from the guides. (Photo from another site just for reference) There seems to be a narrowed part inside the guide tube that the threaded end of the handbrake cable will not pass. Am I missing something? I've ended up cutting the cables to remove from the guides but how the hell do I push the new ones through? I had thought I might have bought the wrong cables but nope EDIT : It seems that the cables should just pull out with ease so I'm guessing there must be something jammed up there. I'll see if I can move it with a screwdriver.
they're probably just stuck with corrosion, mine were the same. I ended up having to grip the tube with molies and twist to free them off. if the cable guides have pulled out its a bit of a faff to get them back in, carpet needs to come up
Yeah the floor pan is bare so easy to put the guides back in place. I've removed the guides and cut the cables to remove from guides. Seems like there might be some sort of metal sleeve left in there from the old cable stopping me slotting the new one back in. I'll have a poke about later and hopefully dislodge it. Nothing is simple with 28 year old cars!
After a proper look it's just the end off the old cable jammed in there. Had to drill one out, the other came out with grips
I've finally got round to bolting the wheels up and had it sat on the drive looking round it. Initially impressed with the look (photos to follow) I'm a bit peed off that the drivers front wheel pokes out of the arch around 1/2 inch where as the passenger front sits flush with the arch trim. I made sure that the bottom ball joint was all the way in both sides and that the struts were as far away from the hub as possible...meaning that the wheels sit straight and not cambered in. Although the tracking is out, I'm not sure it'd cause such an optical illusion. All I can think is that Ive bolted the K frame on slightly to the offside. Any easy ways of shifting the k frame over without removing the engine to release some weight? Ive never had this issue so never thought of how to move it! Is it possible to lift the weight of the car and slacken the bolts of the sub frame and shove it over some how with a bar or a jack? thought things were going too well!
Oh and what would be the best steering column uj to use mk2 or mk3? It's mk3 running gear up front and mk3 rack.
you'll need the right UJ to match the rack splines, the very early mk3 are the same as mk2 then they changed size. if you have the UJ off the donor use that you need a mk2 pas uj boot though regardless. If unsure count the teeth on the rack spline including the ones which are missing (look down the bottom of the spline) shifting the subframe over isnt a fun job to be sure, there isnt really that much movement in it either. if you loosen one of the bolts and get underneath, you'll see how much movement to the side its possible to get plus see if its fitted over to one side or no.