'90 2l 16v(ABF) mk2 (restoration page9, going megasquirt), mk5 ed30

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by beetie, Apr 7, 2007.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    No worries Dave its a reasonably common part to find, as i say std fit on all 90spec GTI so you shouldnt struggle to source one :)

    Paul if you're looking at what colour gears for what box check out brokes gear ratio page, it covers what of the 3 colour gears is needed for the various FD ratios :)
    http://www.brokevw.com/020ratios.html
     
    beetie likes this.
  2. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Red - for 3.67 FD
    White - for 3.89 FD
    Green - for 4.25 FD.

    I have had them all and run the latter.

    Expect the speedo to over read by 3-5 mph from a Sat Nav.

    While broke's american site is brilliant, folk can feel free to contact our EU gearbox guru who has seen more VW gearboxes than most of us has had dinners, hotgolf.
    It should be noted, the US market did not get the same range of options that we have in the EU. Hence the suggestion to contact Mart.
     
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  3. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    A LOT has happened since the last update. Just need to find the time to do a write up, not sure how nigep finds the time to do his great write ups

    Plus it's quite a bit further on than that pic above
     
  4. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    About flipping time!
     
  5. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    So the long overdue update.

    After trying to tighten the rear brake callipers carrier and getting nowhere, I realised that the thread was stripped. So I had a quick search on the net and found that avs vwspares sold new trw ones, which was a result.
    It did mean that I had to crack open the paint again, but if I'm painting I may as well get some other bits done at the same time.


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    So that's gear linkage, front mount bracket, gearbox mount bracket, and that calliper carrier.

    Front Brake pads needed taking down a bit to fit in the calipers. I decided the easiest way was to make a jig at work and sand it down on the linisher. You can hopefully see how it works, as soon as the belt touches the MDF it's done. Doing it this way keeps it all square.

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    With the brakes all completed, it was bled using a pressure bleeder, which showed up only 2 leaks. not too bad and nothing nipping them up didn't sort.

    Getting the exhaust on wasn't easy. Getting the joints apart is the thing I hate most about working on any car. As I was doing it I noticed this in the middle box section.

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    Not good, lets see how good the lifetime warranty is with jetex?

    The answer is, superb. A new middle box turned up the next day, free of charge. Class


    After having the plating tank go funny, I sent off the rest of the bits off to be done. It's great when you see them all done.
    Some strange banjo bolts found their way in there somehow ;)

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    With them back and the paint dry I got to building some bits up. Like this part.

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    Also got the driveshaft cleaned and painted. Then assembled with brand new CV joints at both ends. GKN Lobro obviously, bought when GSF had a 40 percent off weekend.

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    The glove to protect the grease from picking up dirt.

    All got installed with a blanket to protect the paint

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  6. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Time now for the engine.
    The block got a good wire brushing, followed by a degrease and a paint in satin black.

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    With the block done I moved onto the rocker cover, inlet and the gearbox.
    The rocker and inlet had to be black and I wanted a matt black. I found I really liked the wrinkle black that retropower use on their customers cars and asked what it was.
    All it is, is vht wrinkle plus.
    I bought some cans and got cracking. The nozzle on the can is amazing, better than any I have used before.

    Prep,

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    degrease, then sprayed. Which comes out gloss and shiny.

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    Then all you do is evenly heat it up with a hot air gun. It's amazing to see the change to matt black and wrinkled.

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    The inlet still need the letters painting.

    After doing the inlet and the rocker I had to do the gearbox the same, so I did

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    Time to bolt some bits on. Which is what get us to the previous posts picture of the engine. The inlet has been shortened so needed the bracket modifying. Out with the grinder and welder.

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    Welding wasn't too bad.

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    Cleaned up and tried on for the final time.

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    Fits good. Paint that up!

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    Engine got to this point, and now needs a gearbox attaching. Got the linkage parts on

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    Clutch

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    Flywheel with new bolts

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    To get the engine supported, I also needed to get the front carrier assembled. The bushes got pressed in with a threaded bar and a pitman arm.

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    Bolted together with the solid front mount

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    Borrowed a crane, and a mate from work, and got the engine in.

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    Put on some ancillaries and the air box

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    The air box needed a hole for the isv hose to attach to so I got one made from parts I had lying around.

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    Driveshafts bolted up

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    Nige likes this.
  7. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Hope you are still reading. I did say it was a long overdue update and we still aren't over.

    From the previous pic, you can see the front slam panel is in place. The bonnet latch got rivetted in, and the new hella lights installed. They were again purchased on a 40percent off weekend.

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    Cleaned up the spot lights while I was on front end duty's. Left cleaned, right untouched.

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    The car got some of its identity back.

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    A 90spec Gti is nothing without its arches and big bumpers. So I first had to drill a hole in the newly painted genuine Vw wing.ouch.

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    Paint it to stop rust.

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    Another tip from retropower was to use silicon on bodywork screws and rivets. New genuine arches going on.

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    Time for the rear bumper

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    Roof gutter clips marked out with tape, so I know where they are.

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    Gearbox linkages set.

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    Gearbox oil added.

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    New spark plugs, oil folter, oil and coolant added. Wires attached. Now what's needed is this:

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    Petrol obviously, key, ecu, and a fire extinguisher (just in case)

    This Tuesday, Did it start?








    No, it just didn't do anything. Nothing that a hammer on the starter motor didn't fix.

    Now it turns over but doesn't start. Hhmmmm


    Thursday, after work, I managed to check for spark. There was definitely fuel, cause I could smell it. Spark as I found out was non existent.

    Friday, after work, I got out the multimeter.
    5v at the hall sensor-check
    12 v at the ignition unit-check
    12v at the coil-check
    But then there was 12v at both sides of the coil, not right.
    I had found a pic on the net of the coil wiring that show the red/black going to both sides of the coil. Can't be right it's positive one side and negative the other but I thought nothing of it, at the time. The connector I placed onto the positive side was for the old way the isv was connected. Doh

    Having unplugged it I felt lucky. I whacked the fuel pump relay back in and tried it again.

    (Need to try and get the vid uploaded)

    Yes it's not great and needs throttle to keep running. But that's just tuning through the ecu.

    Safe to say, I'm getting there.
    Need to:
    get the sill covers on.
    Get the wiring tidied but left unwrapped just in case.
    Fit the grill
    Fit the front bumper
    Fit the rest of the interior once I have both drivers side seat belts. (Mine have stopped working)
    Set the camber on the front.
    Torque up/check all bolts
    Give the car a long awaited wash.
     
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  8. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Finally got the video to upload. Got it better than this now, as I no longer need the throttle to keep it running.

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    Got on with the trim and got the side skirt put on starting with new trim clips. Installed after degreasing the sill. The main long clip runs along in line with the tongues in the arches (2nd pic). Installed the genuine sill protector (1st pic)

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    Also got the door membranes done. As per the guide I did a while back. Using thick plastic bag from work meant I could cut 2 of the same pieces in one go.
    1st layer done

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    Final layer cut

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    No finished pics, sorry.

    As for the idle issues, after many tweaks in ms, I was getting nowhere.
    Freezing in the garage I decided to head inside with the stim, laptop and ecu. Setting up in the living room, I saw the vacuum port and realised I didn't need to disconnect it to remove the ecu from the car, oooops.
    So, straight back out to the car we go. Connected all back up, FULLY. Reloaded the old map back on, and it now starts like a champ and idles. Ace
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
  9. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Really getting close to being done and having to make a few choices.

    One of those choices is either the original steering wheel, or the momo corse? So which one do people of Clubgti think?

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  10. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

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    Hi Martin, nice to see progress again!

    If the rest of the car is original then it's the original wheel for me!

    Regards,
    Dave.
     
    beetie likes this.
  11. fasteddie

    fasteddie Banned

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    Awesome work :thumbup:
     
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  12. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Having installed an alarm with remote opening, I decided to delock the doors using rear handles. Found some for sale on here, brand new genuine, so snapped them up.
    To get them to work you have to change over the metal lever/finger as they are different front to rear. Easy enough with a suitable punch.

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    Left rear lever, right front

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    All done and thankfully working

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    Interior was getting very messy so gave that a quick clean and hoover. Rear seat in

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    Fan shroud and slam panel are next to go on

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    Got most the dash bits in just a few more clips and switches to sort. Then all that's left is to get the other seat in.

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    Had to drag the split rims out of storage to check they were still okay and holding air. So once out I pumped them up and found all of them were leaking through the valve. Once I tightened them up they seemed fine. Below photo shows one of them leaking (the conditions still very good, the bits are just loose dirt)

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    Had to have a mess about and put one next to the ed30. I think they are wheels that suit all cars.

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    Cleaned up the fog's by splitting them using a guide a found on here, from who else but, rubjonny. One done, one not

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    Got onto the rear badges. All bought brand new. Rear Vw badge first

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    Grommets put in for the golf Gti badge.

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    Now on putting in the 'genuine' golf Gti badge it wouldn't sit flush and trying to press it in I broke the middle prong. Doh.
    On removal I looked at the back and saw there was nowhere for the flange on the grommets to go. Luckily I still have the original to look at, and sure enough it's different. I've contacted Vw heritage to see what they say.
    Comparison photos below. Bottom badge original with indents around the prongs.

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    Left the car at this stage. The engines base timing is set for megasquirt and tuning can commence.

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    Managed to find a price of the puzzle I needed on French eBay. The passenger cill cover foil, which protects the paint from the cill cover.

    Left to do:-
    Fit passenger seat
    Fit fog lights and then front bumper.
    Build up and fit new genuine grill.
    Fit passenger side skirt
    Set front camber, then arch liners, and then wheels
    Torque up most suspension bolts
    Get a half decent base tune
    Get mot

    The MOT will not be done til the nicer weather comes back around march. Can't wait.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2017
  13. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Great updates :thumbup:

    Looks fantastic, momo wheel I think
     
  14. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Got on with a few little bits, but still not rushing with the nasty salt on the roads.

    Got the fog's in and the front bumper on, although I may have to modify the bracket slots in order to get the fog light in the centre of the recess better. For now though get it on and see how it looks.

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    Got the new genuine grill out and started to build it up by transfering the adjustment screws over.

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    Badge in and lights on

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    And on

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    Not forgetting the Gti 16v badge

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    All the new rear golf Gti badges have no recess for the grommet, according to vwheritage ????, so after getting a refund I got the original one blacked out and installed with a new 16v badge.

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    Got the front camber somewhere in the ballpark and got the front wheels on.
     
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  15. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    I bought a rear badge the other day advertised as mk2 one, arrived and it's mk3! So annoying

    These little finishing touches really are a pain
     
  16. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    They definitely are. Go to do a simple job and realise you need a tiny peice of the puzzle and it takes the week to find and get it.
     
    blis likes this.
  17. Chtelain New Member

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    Good Job :thumbup:

    What is it the trade mark of your big bumper ? OEM or repro ?
     
  18. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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    Repro from Vw heritage. Not too bad a quality, the plastic texture is very good. It doesn't have the vertical join lines near the corners like an OEM one. Also the metal bar inside is poorly coated, so I had that done when the car was painted.
     
    blis likes this.
  19. Chtelain New Member

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  20. beetie

    beetie Forum Member

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