Apologies for the long post . Went to visit my ‘2E2 expert’ at my local garage. We started off by checking/adjusting my timing, which was one or two degrees off (20 BTDC IIRC), now spot on at 18. Then we checked the idle-speed and CO, both of which were pretty good, 900ish, and 1%. Considering I’d had the carb in pieces, and set it by ear alone, I was quite chuffed with that. We talked about the 750/950 idle speed confusion, and he reckons it’s all about the amount of electrical stuff that’s been added to cabins over the years necessitating a higher idle, fair enough. We talked about the revs to be expected during the cold-start sequence, especially at the start of the waxstat’s involvement. He said I just won’t find anything written down anywhere, it’s just ‘suck it and see’, haha, oh well. We talked briefly about the adjustment of the secondary diaphragm, and he said it was just about the secondary throttle blending in smoothly, and if I hadn’t touched it, and hadn’t noticed any flat-spots or jerks in the rev range, it’s fine. One less thing to do. He also said that over the years he’d seen loads of cars where the secondary throttle wasn’t working at all, without the owner having a clue there was anything wrong… We talked about the green ball and the non-return valve. He surprised me there by saying that the green-ball’s function is to do with retaining some vacuum overnight! This to improve the cold-start emissions, somehow. He said you could take it all off, chuck it in the skip, and not notice one jot of difference (I think you’d have to block the pipes to the brake servo, and stub ‘B’ on the pull-down though!). If this is right, and I have no reason to doubt him, then the non-return valve would indeed appear to be the wrong way round, in Haynes, on the under-bonnet sticker, and everywhere else I’ve ever seen it, as it can only let air into the green ball as it’s currently fitted (black side towards green ball). Only one place have I ever seen this ‘wrong way round’ theory, a fella called Chris Mancuska wrote about it in some paperwork Trev16v kindly sent me. Lastly we talked about the mysterious ‘speed relay’ and it’s effect on the idle/over-run cut-off valve. He said it was introduced because inlet valves were burning out, on certain VW engines, because of build ups of unburnt fuel, overheating the valves when the power was put back on after, say, going down a long hill engine-braking. He had a look through some Tesco’s bags full of relays that he’d taken off cars he’d broken, but we couldn’t find the right one. I’m gonna forget about that thing too now! Never fitted to an EZ, as far as he knew. Just about finished now then . All in half an hour, and he wouldn’t take more than 20. Star. Pete Edit: Really struggling to see what the 'overnight vacuum store' would do for you, if you turned that non-return valve round to make it possible. With the valve as Haynes says, and as it is now on my car, I can see the green ball being handy to make the pulldown move slowly from the first position to the second (as the green ball is 'emptied'). Someone please explain which of these is better! I'm gonna experiment, again, but I like to understand why stuff works, in case you hadn't noticed...
that is ok, but there is tens of questions i could ask. did you ask him about part load enrichment valve ?, how to test stage 2 vacuum unit. if you timing was at 20" you should get realy good response on gas and fast start from low revs. because i set mine on 20" it is really fast on start and have good response. when i set it to 18 it was terrible slow really bad perfomanse but economy was good. did oyu ask him about setup those metal parts on right side of garb that controls and blocks second butterfly. if you did not nitce that there is a interesting thinks with setuping those thing when the sedcond butterfly should be open and blocked when you push full gas down. and so on.
from my experience timing have big big big influence on perfomanse of car. when i set it to 18" i could not drive up to hill more then 100 km/h, when i gett it back to 20 so cald preigniton i could drive it about 140 km/h up to hill. from 0-100 was with 18" about 11 with 20" about 9 seconds right now. big different. just without touching CO and idle. i can say on 18" timing is dead car from my point of view. those factory settings to 18" is only with new car, and all those things with idle on 900 is with factory settings when car is new and even with CO mixture. my car is shaking on 900 but on 1000 is working without noise. so mixture when is at idle car is shaking and dying. when i put co to more fuel little bit it works without sound. and with 18" timing was like 1.3 engine and with 20" is almost like 1.8 really. so you can't collect factory informations and implement it on 20 years old car, because there is loss on compression, cylinders dont have same compression so idle will be variable even if everything is perfect right? this is my proffed experience i say. i can say i'm just desperate about everything and all infos,and all books,pdfs and everything. and even after long reading i couldnt get back my last perfomanse and economy. i had consumption about 5.5 litre /100km on highway in 5th gear at 80 to 90 km/h non stop, maximum 6. and with that i had perfomanse driving up to hill abot 10% more. hills are best things to test car, cause you really see different between cars really fast. right now i have car with perfect economy little bit more consumption, perfect start from 0-100 about 8.9 and 9 seconds just 1.6 engine. from 80 to 120 km/h about 7 seconds perfect in 3rd gear. maximum reach speed is 185 km/h with 3 guys in car. but perfomanse driving up to hill is fall down from 150 km/h to about 137 km/h about 10%. how car can be really fast in start great on perfomanse at highway but loss perfomanse driving up hills ? can you ask him that please ?
Didn't ask about the power valve 'cos I already figured it out, to my satisfaction. I'll try to post a better explanation with diagrams soon. Testing stage-2 vac unit is easy, you just disconnect the 'ball and socket' joint by gently levering the socket towards you, off the ball, then suck on the pipe going into the top of the diaphragm. It should move all the way up. If you put your tongue covering the end of the pipe, it should stay where it is (up) for at least 10 seconds. I haven't looked in great detail at the secondary linkages, because I haven't had any trouble there. Timing, big subject, and very critical to performance and economy. I don't know enough about it to make any recommendations, but I haven't noticed much difference since it was adjusted. When you have been looking at your timing, is that looking at marks on the crank pulley etc, or on the flywheel? I ask because I thought I had set mine perfectly using the mark (deep v-groove) on the flywheel, and yesterday the guy did it off the pulley mark, and got a different 'number'. Which are you using, or do both things agree?
i think in the case of timing it can depend on wear in the engine and associated parts. Its just a case of setting to what it should be then, if doesnt run exact, give it a little tweak. When i put my gti cam in it should have been set to 6degrees but it ran like a sack of ***t and wouldnt pull at low revs(till about 3k). I gave the dizzy a little tweak to advance it a little(probably about 8degrees) and it runs spot on, pulling great with good economy. Nice one Pete for going so much in depth with the carb stuff. Maybe if you wrote all what youve found out it could go as an addition in the FAQs section so then there is an essential 2e2 guide as well as rubjonny's
newkid you are right you have done same as I. you put timing +2degrees and get better response on gas and better start on low revs.
Thanks newkid, for timing tips, the guy who set mine yesterday said as much, if it feels great, and you're not burning silly amounts of fuel, it's probably good... Have a vague plan to write up some 'details' about the 2E2 to complement rubjonny's FAQ, but the fundamentals are all there, and provided people haven't tinkered before sorting out those, most of what I've been up to will prove unnecessary. Some of my electrical 'refurbs' and the Power Valve thing could usefully be done though. Does the FAQ mention the importance of replacing old vac. hoses? Can't remember. Edit: just had another look at rubjonny's masterpiece. Drew21's contribution mentions finding vac leaks, but not the extremely high probability of perished hoses. I'm a bit confused about mark25's contribution, is that really about the part-throttle channel heater or the 'hedgehog' manifold pre-heater? I think it's the latter. EDIT Changed my mind on this, I thought he must be talking about the hedgehog, cos he refers to a switch or relay controlling it, whereas it actually has a full-time ignition-on 12V (presumably fused). But the edit that says "unit transferred onto a weber" strongly suggests that it is the part throttle channel heater, not the hedgehog. Pete
cant remember myself without looking but its probably worth another mention as its sometime silly little things like that, that you miss when diagnosing something and end up doing loads of other things with out any success.
newkid, did you really notice diffrence with gti cam. can you explane it please. how engine react on gas from low revs to high, acceleration is it good or better, and at what revs you gain best acceleration and perfomanse. how engine react and works with that cam on gears separetly. did you test perfomanse time and difference with old cam. please can you explane. is it har dto put gti cam. is it just put it and adjust timing and that is all or there are some other things to adjust like jets or something please pleease.-
I don't speak from personal experience, but isn't the gti cam just more 'aggressive' at opening and closing the valves, or is the open/shut time ratio different, or both things. Does it even open valves further? No doubt that it'll improve performance, in my opinion, and that of many, many others. Is there a trade-off with wear-rates though? Could someone with a voice of authority (e.g. rubjonny) please confirm to Shex that an old exhaust will make a noticeable (bad!) difference to performance, he doesn't seem to believe me...
pete i believe you but that investition is little bit expensive for me right now. i will try to put gti exhaust end downpipe and try to find it on scrap yard.
an old exhaust, if parcially blocked etc will reduce performance. or in some cases almost stop play altogether. I havent got any exact figures of what my car did prior to the cam change but the difference is noticable. Driving steady on a run a week ago i filled the tank and worked out that i got nearly 40mpg with a steady 70mph on the motorway and some urban driving. The pull in all gears is better but seems to 'take off' better at about 2750rpm. It makes driving a bit more fun as it gives it a extra bit of power. The gti cam has a higher profile lobe than the driver item. This causes more air to be allowed into the cylinder because the valve is being pushed open further. The ignition timing should be set at 6degrees btdc but i found personally that it didnt run quite spot on, so i adjusted it a little, about 8degrees now but thats using a timing light and timing marks, not, putting it on a computer read out timing system eg crypton tunner. The cam is a reasonbly easy item to change (dependant on how mechanically minded you are) and set up. But i would recommend if you havent changed the cambelt for ages or are unsure of when it was done then re-new it at the same time. I am also going to be putting a gti exhaust on it soon so that aswell should help exspell more of the ehaust gasses making it breathe better.
I think worn tappets may also have an effect on timing and could possibly be why the timing has to be adjusted. No experience of this, but what I've heard.
I would think it may affect the running of the engine a little because they wouldnt be opening the valve that thou or 2 as far so therefor compromising the available air that is let into the cylinder.
yes i theory. Thing is at the end of the day as long as you use a good quality oil and keep it changed regular then you shouldnt really have a problem.
mk 2 carb problem (SORTED) Hi, and many thanks for all your help regarding my mk 2 1300 woes. Had a good look at the weekend and the hoses on the carb looked fine. So I went to a good friend of mine whoes an ex mechanic and luckily he had a distributor lying around in his shed.I suspected the dizzy from the start,and sure enough when I changed it over she fired up with conviction and now she has the power which was lacking before.She goes really well even for a mere 1300. Once again thanks. Ray.
Good stuff. We all know that the pierburgs play up but it's very easy to get 'sucked in' to thinking that everything is related to it. My car was running a bit lumpy in the mornings for a couple of weeks and I put it down to my 'o' ring which I haven't got round to changing yet, turned out to be a shot dizzy cap. Only found out when it wouldn't start.
