ABF 16v engine + ZXR750 bike carbs into mk2 1.6 driver

Recalculated MPG figure is 35MPG with a mix of motorway and heavy foot town driving, win

 

That is not too bad for the old bike carbs then.

Does it drive ok now?

 

Yeah it's doing really well at the mo. Considering I'm pounding it with 62 miles every day on the bumpy Northern roads!!

Still pulls like fook, exhaust is a bit loud and drones on a bit on the Mway but never mind.

Just love how it surprises people!

MOT next month....

 

Have you got any detailed pics of how you cleared the top water hose between cylinders 2 & 3?

 

Amazing the simple things in life can make life challenging. Coupla little washers to shim the needles, top tip!!

And decent enough MPG too, a very decent read from start to finish

 

Cheers Funky. That older Bogg Bro defo seemed to know his shizz, ha.

I don't really have any details pics of it but I had to lob off over an inch of the plastic water outlet as I couldn't even fit the carbs on before I chopped it.

 

Right!!!!

If you can get a pic of how much is chopped that would be amazing!

 

Will struggle to get a pic without taking the carbs off, which I aint up for soz .
I'll have a scour through photobucket though.
The plastic outlet on mine went down about an inch or so up to a raised lip I took it all off right down to the lip and more or less rounded the majority of the lip off, just a small ridge was left so the jubilee clip wouldn't slip off when it was fitted with the pipe... Hope this helps.

 

OMG.
I have massive fanbelt whining!
There's no knocking sounds.
It has only just started on my way to work so I turned back and came home to avoid getting stranded again.
The belt is very, very slightly worn on the outer edge, underneath on the ribbed side.
It doesn't really whine much on idle but from 1500rpm up it does.

I'm thinking the water pump pulley bolts may have come a slightly undone causing it not to run straight and wear on the underneath outer side?
Any ideas before I get out there properly?

 

okay got the belt off.
Ran the engine
No noise
So that rules out the cam belt and tensioner?

The belt isn't worn on the outside edge but it is worn in all the grooves..it looks like it's got gunk in all the grooves but it's rubber from the belt.

As far as I can feel there is no play at all in the crank pulley, water pump pulley or alternator pulley.

Any help?

EDIT:
this is a new 975mm belt from maybe 2-3 weeks ago from when the water pump failed.
could it be over tensioning?

 

here's how the belt looks...
I'm going to pick out all the melted/worn rubber and see how that goes, if it sounds good I'll go buy a new one!

 

Everything spins okay, very free by hand.
All spin a full turn after I let go.
here's how the belt looks now...

 

okay the arm is smooth and stiff when opening (loosening) using molegrips.
With no belt on, when I let go it starts off at a reasonable speed then gradually slows to a crawl and is unable to get to fully closed position (tightening belt) with out help...

 

I kept opening and closing the tensioner arm, hopefully that smoothed things out for a while. The old belt may have been on for a while and the spring pack may have gotten set in its ways!!
Got the belt back on, noise has gone
so it was all the worn/melted on rubber that was causing that noise.
Not too sure how much damage there is to the belt but I'm off to get a new one for backup!

 

putting the tensioner arm through the full movements several times has definitely done the trick, same belt on since April.

As you may have read in other threads I'm planning to overhaul the custom intake manifold and sort the brake servo as well.

here's how it is at the minute;


here's half way through with the kawasaki bike carb rubber inlets on;





and offered up to the manifold;


Obviously the manifold's way too long now!
I will be making up a plate to bolt the inlets to
then remove the runners
then measure up and cut some new runners to mate the manifold with the plate
and either get it welded together or have a bash at that Durafix stuff...

In regards to the brake servo, I have tapped out the injector holes with an ISO metric M20x2.5 tapping bit, which is suitable for a 18.5mm hole, ideal for an ABF manifold.




I can either find some reducing nipples or bushing to screw in and go 4 to 1 to the brake servo.
like this;




or
could blank them off and use the balancing nipples on the carb inlet rubbers for a similar design...

 

Slow progress with the new manifold but we're getting there.

I've managed to get the original bike carb's rubber mountings that the carbs belonged to!

Unfortunately, they don't have a balancing nipple that I was going to use for the brake servo, so it will be back to the idea above for brake servo.

Here's how it looks at the moment.







Water-jet cut 8mm aluminium flange,









The next thing is to cut down another manifold [:^(] and measure the correct lengths and angle of the runners and weld it up using DURAFIX.

 

looks good liking your style and effort

little bit like mine

 

oh cool, good work mate.
Yeah it's where I'm heading too.
Are those port matched?
Just ordered the Ally tubing and had a play with the Durafix.
It's definately the way to go if anyone is thinking of bike carbing.
In most cases you have to get a manifold crafted up anyway so stick another flange on the other end and bolt the buggers on instead!