Hey I'm getting my ABF soon and I'm not sure what gearbox to get, i was thinking about the 2y, what do you guys think, I need some help! Thanks
stock engine? I would use a 2y box because is lighter and simpler(no need of cable change conversion or pedal box for hydraulic conversion).I would recondition it and put an lsd in as well..I'm on this stage now basically with mine..
I'm going to change cams later on, and I'm afraid that the 2y can't handle the ABF power, and whats an lsd? Thank you for your reply
1- MkIII 1994 2- 195/50/r15 3- its a daily car ,i just want it to be fast in the 0-100km/h range , and have some good power at higher speeds 4- a stock 2.0 16v ABFA 5- yes i have Thank you for your reply
2Y box will be fine with close to stock power levels, especially if you fit a diff bolt kit. also depends how tyou drive the car, lots of wheelspin off the line and slamming it thru the gears will kill it
so I guess it won't work for me, what other gearbox do you recommend? is hydraulic clutch better? thank you for your reply
If this is the car, then fitted a 3.94FD. Note your top speed will be reduced but your acceleration will increase.
Use the gearbox calculator to understand top speed, gear drops etc for a typical MK3 16v CDA, DPA gearbox with different final drives. Get a dyno curve for the car to determine the engine torque and spread. Then we can give more informed guidance.
I used the calculator for the CDA, but i can't find the ratios for the DPA , and when you say a dyno curve, do you mean one specially for my car, or any curve for a stock 16v ABF, because we don't have dyno's here !
lsd=limited slip differential - make a search on quaife,peloquin or wavetrac I'm running a used stock 2Y box on an almost all motor engine and giving it too much abuse with lots of wheel spin and is now over a year with no probs.If you are only changing to some performance cams i would use that box with some diff bolts and propably a higher final drive and new bearings..
how would an ABF work with an 020/AUG box? I'm thinking in terms of quick 0-60 and getting the 80MPH revs of 4Kish down a bit for economy
The top speed point is largely irrelevant on a Mk3 with modest power...mine will pull to around 140MPH on the GPS with the 3.94 FD in and more power...which was around the same as the factory top speed - the aerodynamics become the limit, as opposed to the gearing. Even with the 4.2 FD, as long as you can rev is high enough, you'll still pull the same top speed before hitting the aerodynamic 'wall'...it's just quicker through the gears if you work the 'box hard enough. DPA 16v 'box, 3.94 FD, light flywheel and some form of LSD is a nice spec. For occasional use, and where not going above 130 MPH genuine isn't an issue, then a 4.2 FD in the DPA makes for a fun gearbox.
