abf block check

If you are not sure, get it checked in person by someone in the know, I wouldn't regrind the crank unless its necessary.

 

your crank needs a polish possibly a grind really need to mic it up, to measure bores accurately you should use a bore gauge like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n572qMo3g0A. the issue with scuffed pistons usually means the engine has been cooked, again a mic is your best friend in this case mic up around 1/2 inch from bottom of skirt
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EO4HHuu9rb0

 

Diesel and 8V Gti Mk3's or Caddy's, get the whole alternator and bracket altogether its tidier than what comes on the ABF.

 

Yeah that's the one!

 

What car is the pulley from?

 

Hard to know, did it have the same alternator setup as the one you have?

 

Should do the job so.

 

Pretty sure one of them doesn't fit. Think it's the bottom one due to the abf being a tall block.

 

Very hard to tell from the photos.

Have a look on google images for cylinder crosshatching and it will show you good and bad examples.

 

just placed order with
www.nevlock.com
for all rebuild parts on block
great prices

 

What rings are you using? Goetze? Good prices on those?

 

yeah using goetze
80 pound plus vat for 4

 

Only you can answer that , as we haven't got access to the block apart from a picture.
Personally, from what I've seen/read on this thread you may as well buy a new block, as most people would have built an engine with what you already have by now lol

 

thought about this and i wasnt happy with both blocks
so i sent one away to be bored out 83.01.also bought oversized mahle pistons 82.98
will up date soon with pics


dan

 

crank polished,re bored,block skimed

 

how to engine used to look before the kr engine started to leak oil at back of block
when i took head of the block the kr engine had a hard life
so made my mind up on 2.0L 16V

 

wish i still had this one

 

painted may get 2nd coat

 

ive got few Q's to ask

whats best way to install the circlips on the piston pins

in the mk3 haynes manual i have it says the main bearings should measure 54.00 for abf 2e etc etc.i got readings of 53.97 as did engine shop same with big ends 0.03 under what haynes says.fella says his book says 53.97 this is what it should measure,he said the crank was perfect and just needed polish

do i need to use plastigauge on mains&big ends

is there any need to check piston ring gaps .pistons are brand new mahle items

the oil pump cover plate thing.is this suppose to move up and down freely? just i took mine out and it was stuck but i got it going with wd 40 and blast of air.what i gather from other thread oil from pump goes up pin hole in cap and keeps pressure on cog when engine is running

thanks for any help
dan

 

I practised on some old pistons after the C clip failure at Bedford. Hard to explain, but I used an old terminal screwdriver that I rounded the end off a bit, so it was still a screwdriver, but with no sharp edges. Then, start the C clip (The opening needs to be at 12 or 6 o`clock), push it in as much as you can, then use the screwdriver in the `slot` on the piston to help the clip into the groove. I found a 2nd person would have helped to push it into the groove at 12 o`clock at the same time.

If you mark the piston at all, I rubbed it with some 2400grit emery paper to remove the marks to reduce any chance of extra stress. On this last build, I didn`t need to. It is a `knack` and hard to explain, but if you can practise on old pistons, remove and refit a few times until you `get it`.

I plastigauged the mains and big ends, I already had the plastigauge, so why not. Same for the rings. It took seconds with a feeler gauge, so I didn`t see any reason not to.

My oil pump cap was the same. Needed freeing. I soaked it in degreaser and then petrol. Finally cleaned it and it was free to move before refitting