3 speed might be vr6 +a/c only then, i found the diagram for it whilst lookign thru the VR6 section on elsawin
Well when I pulled up after the track session and my water temp was 115+ the fan speed wasn't going fast... so I assume that the radiator temp switch isn't working properly?
in my experience there are two speeds (i have no AC). the second, higher speed, setting is noticably different, ie mega fast
3 pin fan sensor will kick in the full speed when coolant gets to 102 degrees, but remember by the time the coolant has circulated thru the rad to the fan switch it will be colder than it is at the dash temp sensor as thats mounted directly on the engine. was the fan spinning though? slow speed the fan kicks in at 95degrees coolant temp at the rad
Yes the fan was spiining just not at the fast speed... the fan does work on fast speed if I jump the connection so its gotta be the radiator sensor?
if its spinning then its probably fine dude, like i say by the time coolant gets to the sensor it will have cooled down a bit compared to what the dash sensor is seeing. also like we all have said already, once you're driving along fan doesnt really do much either. sounds like its just hot out there and the style of track is just making the coolant system work hard. I recon an oil cooler would be a better bet for you
Yea fan comes alive as soon as I bring the a/c on, I gave it some more attention today, it seems that in normal or really slow traffic, stops etc temperature holds on better bellow or arround 90 then when drivin it as I said at open road with some tempo, than kinda doesn't make sence to me. Also, is it possible that a/c unit is putting too much load at the engine than it should? What could couse that for example? Oil is arround 100 or few degres more when I am in this drivind mode whne it runs kinda hot...
100deg oil isnt so bad at all, maybe have a look at the thermostat see if its opening when it should. the abf has a lower temp stat than the 8vs, so maybe someone has put the wrong stat in. though tbh if its only getting to 100 water temp id not be worried
Hey rubjonny, I wonder if you can point me in the right direction, have been having a few cooling problems recently, only when sitting in traffic and slowly creeping along for 15mins or more, but the temps start rapidly rising, I have to stick full heat on in the cabin to try and draw away the heat from the engine and stop it switching the warning light on - I changed the fan switch a few months ago as the fan didnt seem to be coming on at idle, well not all the time/intermittently, sometimes it will randomly spin up manically after Ive stopped the engine and start to walk away, other times it seems to operate as normal. Upshot being it doesnt appear to be the fan switch as this has been changed. Above you mentioned a coolant flow issue through the rad, could you give me some pointers on where to look? Sounds like a fan controller problem, so I'll look for that tomorrow, under the expansion tank?! (didnt even know it existed!)
1st thing is run engien from cold with cap off, rev engine and watch the thin hose at the top, should see squirts of coolant. if not the pipe is blocked or the pump is weak. 16v in particular is prone for the thin pipe blocking up due to poor design. where the thin hose meeds the thick hose, there is a plastic fitting, which has liek a 3mm hole in it for coolant to pass thru. blocks upreally easily, and no way to unblock it if this happens doesnt show you coolant flow thru rad though, to test this feel both sides of the rad when temp creeps up to 3/4, both ends should be nice and hot by then. if 1 end still cold then that suggests rad blockage
Thanks John! I'll check all that tomorrow after my MOT! - And report back! If it all checks out ok I guess it can only be the fan controller!
Update: Took my car for its MOT last week which it passed fine, but needs a couple of items looking at in the near future, discs etc at front.. I checked for a blockage via your above method and it all seems to be working fine in the expansion tank etc.. while on my MOT the engine temps started to rise as it was idle and no fans kicked in, when he dropped the bonnet after checking the engine bay, the fan kicked in as if it had been jolted.. When I got home I looked for the fan control module located behind/below the expansion tank and noticed that 1 of the fuses from the little clear box on top of it was missing completely, could this cause the problem or is it supposed to only have 1? I'm going to pick up some fuses this weekend and try it out, but im still guessing loose connection..
depends on the spec of the coolant electrical system and which of the many control boxes you have. some only have the 1 fuse, some have 2. if it helps an abf loom that got sent to me recent had the box, and that only had 1 fuse in it too. obv its not the fuse tho, since dropping the bonnet got the fan going. check over all the parts of the wiring as above. also spin your fan by hand, see if its stiff or sticky, of if it catches anything. obv do that when engine is cold
1 bet says bad connection on the fan itself. mine used to cock up in the past. id lift the bonnet, wiggle it and all was well
