Thats so unlucky. Did you end up replacing the top end or the whole engine in the end? The only problem with the 1.8ts is that you have to keep up with the oil changes, as i've already found out. I suppose an engine flush after a while would be a good idea to.
There`s more info on the tale of woe on another thread " Engine Suppliers ?" as I was initially looking for a replacement unit. With the daughter in Oxford and me in Aberdeen it was awkward getting to the bottom of the story I eventually discussed the symptoms with TSR and hatched a plan ... they arranged collection of the car and stripped it. Head was trashed which included a snapped camshaft, bottom end bearings and rings were OK. Rebuild included a complete `brand new` head as sourcing a good `used` item to refurbish was proving difficult (I wonder why ). Block was re-honed with new rings, bearings etc ... New belt, water pump, service and MOT = TSR did a superb job, prompt / regular updates with options and costs to match which then made it easy for me to decide how to progress. It could have gone back together much cheaper but the car is sound and we wanted it reliable for the long term. Apologies for the `hijack` and to say that I`ve no business connection with TSR other than being a customer for twelve years. This will be the fourth engine from them
Not a lot of signs of oil getting to the head if you look inside the cap tbh, all you can see is the plastic baffle type things but it's not tappety at all when it's running which imo points to oil pressure at the head. Not had a pressure gauge on it yet, that's the next step before anything else, having trouble getting hold of one though!
Right then... Ordered an electronic oil pressure gauge, truth be told it was only a cheap one but still, it senses pressure so thats kinda what i needed! Had to make an adapter to mount it to where the oil pressure sensor fits, after a bit of faffing about, fired it up, needle soon climbed... and climbed... and climbed! 80psi at idle, rising to 90psi at just over 2k rpm. the light and buzzer came on as soon as i took it over 2k rpm, so i made up a little wire with a needle connector on it and directly earthed the senser wire (to make it think the pressure was already up) and started the car again. Still reading 80psi at idle and the light and beeper STILL comes on over 2k rpm! So, with the sensor bypassed altogether, and i KNOw there's pressure in the oil system, anyone else think this is an electrical problem and NOTHING to do with oil pressure problems? PS also, i know on earlier golfs there is a high and low pressure sensor, does the 1.8t have a high oil pressure sensor as well? cheer for any help
It's a brand new pump Run it for a few mins, not up to full temp cos my make shift adapter is leaking a little. The oil pressure dropped from 80psi to about 55 psi after about 2-3 mins at idle/slight revs. Sounds right to me tbh. Again, even with the oil pressure switch wire earthed, the oil light is still coming on.
Does the top end get tappety after a few minutes of being on? Mine did when the light came on, big time. You'll definitely hear it!! If not i'd guess it is electrical related, seen as you have fitted a new pump
If there isn't a noticeable tappet sound i'd say its got to be electrical. When the warning came up on my dash, its almost suddenly started tapping. Luckily i turned the car off straight away and got towed by the AA. But it was a loud tappet noise, so very obvious.
Hmmm, i've been having a loud tappet (sounds like another one comes and goes as well) for a while but only when the engine is hot. Will keep an eye on this thread tho no lights yet...
Well this still isn't fixed. The car is running fine, better than it ever has to be honest so it's deffo electrical. I'm having major trouble finding a wiring diagram for the oil pressure light circuit though. It seem to me like a relay or something has packed in. Currently the oil pressure switch feed is earthed so it's not even READING oil pressure and still it's screaming at me that the oil pressure is low, while my gauge tells me otherwise! Does anyone have a wiring diagram they could possibly scan and post up? from a haynes manual or something?
PM me your email i'll send you one. It seems that the pressure switch is connected directly to the clocks. Connects with a green/black wire. Then earthe on the engine. You must have a bad connection, or a faulty switch. because earthing the wire should make the circuit. It goes to T10a – 10-pin connector, in cable channel left in engine compartment Edit. Had a thought Have you disconnected the wire completely? (not earthed). Not sure if they are failsafe or not.
Use a multimeter to check if there's voltage on the wire, and see if switch is open or closed to earth with engine running and not running.
as above just wired direct to dash, if earthing the wire and leaving it disconnected dont help then its the clocks or a wire fault. T10a is in the engine bay either inside the plastic channel on the chassis leg or next to the battery, its also possibly a 14pin plug not 10. if you open the plastic housing on the back try earthing the pin from there, rather than the sensor. its possible the wire has broken somewhere in the engine loom
