Hi guys, please help me lol!!!!!!!! Right so the golf was parked up running sweet, a year later its playing up. So its starts on the button, setlles down to 1k idle, you drive down the road and about 1/2 mile down the road the engine splutters and evetually dies. i thought maybe 'icing' so checked the little cylinder heater thing, the wire had snapped, rewired and got that working but didnt solve the issue. after reading a few posts, these are things i've noticed. the choke flap sits wide open all the time and seems to have nothing controlling it the 3/4 thingy sits out at about 14mm then when started disappears all the way in..... when i turn the ignition i get the audible click have wiggled the carb and sprayed wd40 around the base to see if the rubber mount is perished, all seems ok choke housing gets hot so coolant seems to be flowing any help really would be appreciated, im on the verge of caving in to a weber!!!!![:^(]
Not sure whether you have a problem with the choke flap, it needs to be quite cool before it closes up, have a look first thing one cool morning, before you start it. Pull out the rubber bung in the top of the airbox and shine a little torch in there to see the flap without taking airbox off. The thing that may well be causing the cutout is the 3/4 point unit not behaving itself, and that almost has to be the over-run/cutoff solenoid valve on the back of the carb not getting its 12V when ignition is on. Pull the plug out of this, and measure for 12V with ignition on, engine still off. I don't think you'll need to look further than this TBH, as there isn't another way that I know of that the 3/4 unit can be fully retracted. The click you're hearing may be the TTV, not this solenoid valve; you could check by disconnecting the TTV's plug, and see if you still get a click. Good luck with it.
Cheers for coming back to me so quickly, I'll have a look straight after work tomorrow! I've not looked round the back of the carb to be honest what am I looking for? Thanks again
Have a look at this picture: The over-run/cutoff solenoid valve is item No. 12 and has a two-way elecctrical connector facing towards the brake servo (Just behind where the blue-coloured hose tees off the red one in the above illustration). TTV is No. 11 , again with a two-way connector. The two connectors are different shapes so can't go on the wrong things. It's not unusual for the wiring to these items to get busted. Sometimes visibly, sometimes inside the rubber strain-relief boots of the connectors. Find 12V at each connector with ignition on, engine not running, and you'll have probably ruled these bits out.
Yes, fuse 18 would be the one for the TTV. It also covers the electrically-heated washer jets, and the part throttle channel heater (which you said earlier you'd fixed?). Unplug the leccy connectors on the washer jets and see if it still keeps blowing. If it does, your repair to the heater may be the problem. Good luck.
hmmmm, i better re check the wiring i did lol, the plug with two wires in does go to that doesn't it?? washer jets could be a possible tho, thanks gain EZ Pete
Yup, the thinner (black/white?) of the two wires in that connector loops back round as the positive feed to the TTV, hence them being on the same fuse. How did you repair the heater? You need to make sure the wire doesn't short to the mounting bracket where it comes out of the cylinder bit, there isn't a lot of clearance.
ok, i took the heater element off and could see the wire sticking out, so flipper the metal cap off and saw it was just soldered on, so remove and soldered ona new wire and connector. The wire sleeve goes into the black cylinder so don't think its there. Where do these washer jet heaters switch?? or where can i unplug them?? just been out to the garage but no lights in there
Pop the bonnet, follow the water hose up past the bonnet hinge towards the first washer jet, you'll find a two-way connector, unplug there; and the other one is over by the driver's side jet. Sounds like your repair to the heater was OK, as long as the heater element itself hasn't fallen out (stuck to the brass end cap bit with conductive paste IIRC).
hmmm, just to clarify what should be inside that heater - im worried ive lost something, and can you get new ones??? maybe a daft question but does the washer jet pump work independently to the heaters, or would beither work if disconnected.... Thanks
As I recall, there's the wire going in, which is soldered to a little 3-pronged sprung contact. This bears on one side of the heater element, which is a thin disc with a 'silvered' contact surface, stuck to inside of the brass disc which clicks onto the end facing the carb. The heaters are still available from VW, I think, but they aren't cheap (35?) I doubt it would have fallen off without you noticing to be honest, but if you do a resistance check from the end of the feed wire to the carb body, you should see single-figure Ohms, but not less than about 3.5. Heater, washer jets and TTV are all on whenever the ignition's on, and unplugging any of them should leave the others still working. So unplug all of them, fit a new fuse, then plug each item back in one at a time and see which causes the fuse to blow when the ignition is turned on. Washer pump is completely independent of the heated jets.
Thanks so much Pete you've been a great help, i'll get back on it after work tomorrow and hopefully find which it is!!!!!
No probs, and good luck with it. Pretty sure I've got a (dead) part-throttle channel heater somewhere if you want any pics of the guts to compare with yours. Be glad you have a pre-90, CE1-electrics car. On CE2 none of these items are fused IIRC, so you would have probably taken out your ignition switch and maybe some wiring if you had a short.
just another question lol, the fuses cover is missing, can you download a fuse list for future reference so i know whats where????
Sorry, can't help with that one. Mine's a CE2 fusebox, so different. Still got the Owner's Manual in the glovebox? That might tell you. RJ's Fusebox FAQ sticky thread is the bible for this sort of thing, in the Electrical section, but different models in the range have different functions for some of the fuses. Post #8 should tell you most of them for your car, but isn't right w.r.t. fuse 18 on the Driver/lower spec models, cos it doesn't have a relay for the horn, nor coolant level warning. BTW; if you still find it cuts out after you've solved the leccy gremlins, check the stuff to do with the airbox/warm-air feed. Most likely cause of carb icing IMO. See FAQ area of this section.
Just to say thanks for your help EZ Pete, it seems to be fixed took it out for a good long run today without any problems!!!!
