Hi all just purchased a EGR blanking plate, and had a quick look in the engine bay earlier and was a little baffled, has anyone done an intake cleaning and egr blanking how to guide? i disconnected my intake pipe from intercooler side and that had some oil in it not alot but still would like to get it all cleaned up. Bit of info/history on the car, its a 2002 Bora Tdi PD130 ASZ engine code, 179k runs well has been well maintained, no other mods done at all, smokes on startup but this clears after a few seconds, and very occasionally will smoke on high boost, and on motorways it goes into limp mode when i try to give it the beans, i get boost in 1st 2nd and 3rd but sort of backs off in 4th and get nothing in 5th and 6th, im assuming this to be a MAF fault, but not certain. Planning to de-cat the car, blank egr and possibly replace the MAF, has anyone had a OEM MAF that actually works? or is it best to stick to the Bosch ones used by VW, All information is greatly appreciated Dan
What plate have you bought? A thick one or a thin one? One or two? If you have a thin stainless steel one you can remove the gasket below the EGR abd replace it with the plate to stop exhaust flow into the inlet If you have a thick plate, you need two of them and you can remove the connecting pipe from below the EGR to turbo, using the blanking plates over the ports
Hmmn That's not terribly thick to stay stiff and flat but probably too thick to replace the gasket under the EGR The blanking plate that Allard supplied me when I replaced my EGR with a straight through pipe was probably more like 4-5mm If you go ahead with 2mm plate then yes you will need two
Ive read a fair few posts saying that they have just blanked the vacuum pipe off, is it worth just doing the the hose blanking or sticking the blanking plate in too? for good measure... seen as ive bought it now lol,
Stick the plate in on the inlet manifold side of the egr pipe and leave the pipe on. Its flexible and should cope with 2mm of plate. Blocking with the plate is a good idea generally.
Once you have the egr off you'll see how pointless the blank is with the plunger permanently in place. Def worth cleaning the manifold and intercooler to make the car feel fresh again
I hate to say it but I wouldn't modify anything until you find out what's wrong with it. Get ir running right then you can modify to your hearts content and you should see improvements each time, otherwise you'll never be sure whether it's the modification that's the problem or the original issue that is still caousing problems, also you'll never know if you're getting the most out of your mods if there is still a running issue around in the engine. I would get a Vag-com scan done, find out the fault codes, fix the problems and go from there, hope this helps.
agree with mat, cleaning the inlet tract from turbo to head really helps, especially with high miles and poor oil quality.
I gave the inlet manifold a complete clean to get rid of all the oily sutty deposits before fitting it on my 2.4D Turbo conversion. I also used a 5mm EGR Blank which was drilled and tapped to fit the EGT Sensor . After the clean with petrol, soapy water and jet wash.
New Inlet manifold gaskets & Exhaust also EGR Blanks Plates for the exhaust manifold 2 x EGR Blank plate fitted these have now been changed for a 5mm one.
Yeah im gonna either get VCDS-lite and a lead to scan for codes or get an OBDII reader, ill definately be sorting out current issues out first, before adding anything, and my inlet will hopefully be getting stripped down and cleaned thoroughly just after christmas when ive got a bit of free time, Thanks for all the input guys, ill update the thread with what i find
