Agree. Having studied all the pics I'm reasonably sure most seem to use the Morette ones, but the Hella ones just seem more right and I imagine the quality will be good, and as found a set locally I got those.
Need sets of wheels now, as of course Kitcars are 4 stud, but the tarmac spec wheels are 18" and I just think they look too big. Thinking the ideal will be 17", looking at the SBG one they seem to have 17" on that as far as I can tell......seems the ideal size. Think the works cats were on 7.5" but may run 8" depending on whats available.....unless anyone out there has a set of Kitcar wheels :-)
This is the info MM Motorsport supplied me: The hub is made for the VW transporter CV joint. The bearings are from the Audi A6 (SKF BAH-0011 AB). The VWMS code for the CV joint is 893407 099 SP. The SP denotes a special part, but that might just denote a special material rather than a different design to a production supplied part. I have a set of VWMS shafts and serviceable CV joints here, so not really done much research on it, other than the above. The hub itself is a bespoke part, so I imagine no similar production part. I do have a spare set of NOS Gemini hubs here, which I assume are a similar design to the ones fitted to the hub. Certainly the VWMS hubs have the same spline type and visually they ares similar and of course with the 4 x 100 stud pattern.
Interesting, and thank you. Run a mk2 (mk3) rally car and DNF'd out of a second race (last weekend) because of a blown up CV. They were quality joints, worked over by a known shop here in the states. One was a cage, the other was a spline. Both have blown up on launch, and I have been trying to be more careful, but it didn't help. I know these are a common failure point and have been looking at upgrades. Currently have some Audi 80 joints on the way to see if I want to go that way with custom splined hubs. Of course, I have to start from scratch again on those. There is noise about having a batch made, but the maker of the originals has moved on and it is an unknown at this point. Also talked to a shop that does a lot of custom pulling trucks/tractor drivetrains that will look at cutting splines/hubs once I get the CV's next week. Still just trying to think out of the box a little and see what is out there as the Audi joints are getting harder to find. Learning that they are Transporter joints and knowing the bearing might help, I'll investigate further. Full custom uprights would be nice, while I'm not ready to justify that, I might be able learn something from them. The cost of custom parts seems obscene, until you consider that the cost of one of these races here is well into 4 digits. One of the issues here in the States, is that we don't seem to have the depth in these older cars. I have to come over to ClubGTI to get decent info. A hearty thank you to all that contribute. bo
Tristan, I'm obviously not blowing them up with the torque of my mighty ABA (probably 120hp). Excess steering under power can be a factor, but in my case, I believe it's cyclical stress from running over chatter bumps under full throttle. Both broke in 1st or 2nd gear on launch. I do not side step the clutch, and I preload the drivetrain. Once I get rolling, I get on it, and boom. Just too small for the intended abuse.
The best theory I have heard is that the threaded nut style is holding both tension and torsion, whereas the bolt-through separate those functions. The next will be bolt-through for sure.
Oh listen, i rallied a 100 bhp 1.3 Ford Ka, and only ever blew a cv while running, never on the start line. It was the sudden loss, then regaining of grip that did it for me.
There is a thread on here, or probably many, on this subject. My personal experience, over quite a few years in MK1 & MK2's, is mostly in hillclimbs and sprints, so short fast and twisty tarmac. I've never broken a CV with engines ranging for 160bhp to 253bhp, and often on supersoft sticky 8" slicks and full throttle hairpins etc., so it always surprises me how many people break CV's. Of course a rally car will be heavier and with two people on board more traction and mass to deal with. I think some failures are down to full droop angles being too big and also the shafts hitting the chassis on big jumps and full lock abuse, as well as torque settings on the nuts, as I'm quite religious about that on high stress parts, but of course it can't be that in all cases, too many people break them. As I've never had issues so again I've not looked for answers but understand that the VR6 CV is a good upgrade, not sure if you had the VR6 in the US? I know the late MK2 has bigger bearings and possibly a different CV?, similar to the MK£ 8 & 16v's. GKN are the go too manufacturer for CV joints, they are the best. However, on my MK1 I only ever used std 2nd hand VW ones, cants ever recall buying a new one. I also heard that re manufactured hubs can have a higher failure rate due to the fact that in their previous life they may have run in the opposite direction, when re fitted if they then run the other way (on the other side) then that introduces a totally new stress to the part, leading to failure. I understand many CV's touted as new can be an old casting re furbished, not totally new. It certainly seems that the Audio bolted CV is preferable to the typical VW thread and nut type of fitment all the race cars seem to use these. The Grp A CV for the std Gemini H pattern box, that seems to use the steel std type hub in the Kitcar parts manual, is listed as a 1H1 407 099 B SP. I'm no expert on part numbers, but the 1H1 seems to denote a MK3 Golf, the 407 the suspension and the 099 B bit a CV joint, but I can't find any matches on the innerweb for that part number, but it often throws up an Audi bolted CV. Not sure that helps at all!!
Received some Audi 80 CV's today. Doing some measurements to determine if I can have some mk3 hubs re-splined and have enough meat left. It looks like it is enough to me.
I talked to a guy that builds custom axles, hubs, and diffs for pulling trucks and tractors. He seemed to have no problem doing it on his CNC mill. I believe he's using the Z axis as a shaper. I asked him if that is hard on the spindle bearings, and he says it has no problem with it. I needed to get the parts in so that he could see them, and I did, so I'll talk to him Monday and find out how bad it's going to be. I saw a lot of big blocks of metal and some finished parts, and they're for stuff a factor of 10 bigger than mine, so he must know what he's doing. I'm definitely curious to see what he says, and how he does it.
Only just found this thread again. Got to say I’m so pleased it’s ended up with Tony, it’s the perfect base for this kit car conversion and with great history. Looking forward to watching the build develop.
Sorry for hijacking again but since pascal77uk woke this thread up, I wanted to close the loop on my end of it. The 4x100 hubs were single-point broached on a CNC mill to fit the Audi CV's. They have worked flawlessly for me on many hundreds of miles of gravel rally ever since. My problem was solved.
