Audi 3.2 conversion

Discussion in 'VR5, VR6 & Wx' started by swiftkid, Mar 23, 2014.

  1. swiftkid New Member

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    Hey guys hoping for a bit of assistance, I had intended to send my wiring off to get converted but some people are no longer doing wiring conversions and others are now charging a fair bit more than I was quoted a year or so ago so hoping to do it myself. I have got an Audi A3 3.2 (2004 BDB) engine I will be putting in my VR6 Corrado, from what I gather its similar to the MK5 R32.

    -Firstly, I have been wanting to swap my fuel rail over to a mk4/TT rail so I can have the built in FPR, I have read somewhere that this may make the ECU unhappy because of the injector pulse. Is this true or can I simply swap rails?

    Next, wiring... there is a fusebox in the engine bay (SB) with 2 plugs, T40 & T26. At the moment I'm just working out all the wires to this fusebox.
    The audi wiring diagram has M/30, L/30, A/30, 30a & 15 as opposed to the VW 30, 31, 15 & X. Could anyone clarify what the audi method is?

    For the speed signal I have heard I can run a pin from ECU 54 to the blue junction box, but not sure what to do for Tacho. More research needed on my part.

    As for wiring, hoping someone might be able to say if I'm right, wrong or fill in the gaps on the below.

    T40
    4 - J519 Onboard supply control unit (Not needed)
    6 - J527 (Steering Column Electronics) - Not needed
    7 - J527 (Steering Column Electronics) - Not needed
    8 - Trigger wire for J682 (see 10) - Bin and use CE2
    9 - Power from J682 (see 10) - Bin and use CE2
    10 - Earth for J682 Terminal 50 voltage supply relay - Bin and use CE2
    (starter & J519 Onboard supply control unit)
    14 - G266 oil level and oil temp sender - G2/01
    15 - J527 (Steering Column Electronics) - Not needed
    16 - Fuel pump live to J49 (Electric fuel pump 2 relay - not needed
    21 - Injectors - to Z1
    24 - J533 Data bus diagnosti
    25 - J285 Display control unit in dash T32/1, T32/2 & T32/18 - ???
    26 - N79 PCV - G2/04
    33 - N70, N127, N291, N292, N323, N324 Ignition Coils - G1/04
    37 - N80, Exhaust Camshaft control (N318), -Bin N80 but rest to G1/10?
    Variable intake manifold changeover valve (N156)
    Inlet camshaft control valve (N205)
    Radiator fan control unit (J293)
    39 - J527 (Steering Column Electronics) - Not needed
    40 - To F63 Brake pedal switch - Not needed

    T26
    1 - J299 SAI relay - remove
    3 - J151 coolant circulation relay for V51 coolant circulation pump - Not sure on this one, what do people usually do with this? Reuse CE2 wiring?
    4 - ECU pin 23, ECU relay earth trigger - wire in ECU relay
    6 - N112 SAI, N401 Suction jet pump valve - Not needed, remove all
    N220 Exhaust flap valve, J299 SAI relay
    ECU pins 19, 22, 44, 46
    7 - Permanent live to ECU relay (through to T26/4) connects to T26/12
    9 - MAF - Just want this confirming, should this be G1/08 or G1/10?
    11 - Power from J682 (see T40/10) - Bin and use CE2
    12 - ECU pin 62 - G1/10
    13 - Coil live to T26/24 fuel pump relay - Not needed (already done in CE2)
    14 - ECU pin 3 - G1/10
    16 - Lambda heater post cat - G1/08 (not running post lambda's but thought I'd wire them just incase)
    19 -
    23 - Lambda heater pre cat - G1/08
    24 - Coil live from T26/13 into Fuel pump relay - Not needed (already done in CE2)
    25 - ECU pin 65, earth trigger - G1/03

    Cheers
     
  2. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Have you spoken to Andrew Outhwaite? , he does plug n play looms.
     
  3. swiftkid New Member

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    No, I havnt. Any idea on how much he charges. I sort of feel like I've done a load of work and I'd like to finish it but at the same time I just want to get my car running before the end of summer!
     
  4. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    No idea, you'll have to ask him.
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    for the rev counter again I believe you can just add the missing wire to pin 37 as per mk4 6 pot ecu wiring, the mk4 and mk5 ecu are very similar in terms of ECU pinout so you can do most of your wire conversion with reference to the various MK4 golf wiring info out there.

    the basic wiring terminal designations still apply, so M30 30a, A30 and L30 are all still 30 - permanent live the letters just differentiate between different live traces. for example M30 is fed from SD3 battery fuse 80a, L30 is fed from SD2 battery fuse 120a etc. these are not audi specific its a vw thing too on the newer electrics systems. you see it to some extent on mk4 diagrams too, 30 and 30a are both live, 87 and 87a are both still fuel pump live etc.

    anyway for your purposes you're better off starting with the T121 ECU plug in the diagram, and ignore all the other gubbins as the ECU is all you care about. most of the other gubbins will be filed under B for bin anyway! Once you concentrate on that it should become much easier to figure out what needs to be done
     
  6. swiftkid New Member

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    Right, had a look through the wiring from the ecu and come up with the following. This is what I plan to do, T121 is the main ECU plug which is known as J220 in the wiring diagram, lets call the fusebox in the engine bay fusebox A, this has 2 big plugs going to it - T40 & T26, obviously you know that rubjonny and others reading it but I thought I'd write it anyway. I'd appreciate if anyone has any comments or can confirm what I've done.

    F plug
    1-Starter wiring, Use corrado wiring
    3-Alternator wiring, Corrado

    G1
    1-not used
    2-Ambient air temp sensor, use corrado (connects to G2/2)
    3-Fuel pump earth trigger, T121/65
    4-Ignition live, T121/21 & Ignition coils (T40/33, fusebox A in engine bay)
    5-Earth
    6
    7-ECU relay earth trigger, T121/23
    8-fuel pump live (20A fused), Lambda sensors (T26/16 & T26/23 fusebox A) & MAF T26/9
    9-
    10-ECU relay ignition live, T121/3
    11-Speed sender, I don't have this wire but needs putting in, think its T121/54?
    12-Tacho signal, for the mk5 apparently I need to put a wire in T121/37

    G2
    1-Oil temp sender, use corrado
    2-Ambient air temp sensor, use corrado (connects to G1/2)
    3-Coolant temp sender, use corrado
    4-PCV valve T40/26
    5-unused
    6-unused
    7-unused
    8-Fuel pump live, T40/37
    9-Permanent live, T121/62 ECU - unsure about this as its unfused and needs a fuse, anyone confirm this?
    10-Oil pressure switch, use corrado
    11-Oil pressure switch, use corrado
    12-

    Z - Injectors T40/21

    An additional note, the 109 ecu relay will need changing for a no. 30 relay, unsure exactly why as yet so clarification on this would be good. (edit: confirmed by Rubjonny, ECU relay 109 can be used)

    Now I've got some questions I'm hoping people can answer a few questions please
    1. I'm leaving the SAI wiring in, going to put a 330 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in but there is a power feed to it, where has everyone given power to the SAI from?
    2. Is there any difference between fuel pump relays? I was just going to leave the Corrado one in
    3. Has everyone used the corrado blue temp sensor and swapped plugs or used the 24v one? It fits in the housing just wondering if it needs swapping
    4. T121/66 to rad fan control unit, has everyone just cut this and left the corrado rad fan control unit to do its own thing?
    5. N80, Variable valve timing does this go to G1/8? I have written this down somewhere but can't find it.

    Got a few more bits I need to check but I'll leave that here for now.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2014
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    personally i would bin off the r32 engine bay fuseboxes and just power it from the corrado fusebox as they add bulk to your loom plus you already have a perfectly good fusebox so why not use it? but its up to you :)

    if you do use the r32 bay fusebox then you dont need to take many feeds from the corrado fusebox at all, just use all the r32 fusebox wiring as is. All you need to do is run the main battery feeds to it plus you'll need to run G1 or G2 pin 4 to T40/15 to switch on the fusebox (track 51), T40/7 next to it isnt needed. Then the ecu will trigger the r32 pump and ecu/coil etc relays to power all the loom up.

    you'll have to run a wire from g1/3 to ecu pin 65 (but dont cut the wire, tap into it!) this will trigger your fuel pump relay to power up the corrado fuel pump. if you do decide to power the r32 ecu/coils off the CE2 fusebox you use 109 relay, the g1/7 wire is there to trigger it. if you put a 30 relay in it will still work but the ecu will log a relay fault.

    1. SAI you may as well bin and have coded out properly the same time the ecu is coded to work without all the other in car ecus, running resistors isnt the best way to go about it
    2. can use the rado one no probs
    3. the rado blue sender is for the ecu, for the dash you need a black 2 pin mk2 golf one fitted in the spare hole on the housing then run g2/3 to it and earth the other pin. the r32 sensor only feeds the ecu, you may be able to use a mk3 golf 4 pin unit to feed r32 ecu and corrado dash but im not sure if the ecu sender resistance curve is the same. no need to though if you have a spare hole tho anyway :)
    4. yes this should work ok, or alternatively use the r32 controller with corrado fan/thermoswitch plugs on
    5. technically fed from ecu relay but fuel relay or normal ignition live even will be fine. if you leave the r32 fusebox though this is all taken care of for you, no splicing requred :)
     
  8. swiftkid New Member

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    Sorry perhaps should have been a bit clearer, I am removing the engine bay fusebox completely, as you say its neat and tidy and the end result I'm hoping for is a plug and play, almost like it was straight from the factory setup. So my list in the post above it what I am connecting to the CE2 fusebox.

    Ahh, I think I have misunderstood a bit with the relay. Good news on my part if I don't need a number 30 relay!

    Now I've had mixed messages with the SAI stuff, a few people have said that the SAI and N80 stuff needs to be in for long term fuel trim/adaption. One reputable tuning company has said get rid, another has said keep it in... Whether it can be removed and remapped to suit I don't know, I'm not that technically minded. I was going to wire it up with the resistor in, then plumb up the carbon canister and see how it goes. If I need to snip a wire, its easier than adding it back in.

    -I have a late spec corrado so I have 3 stage fan. I have a blue 2 pin plug (ecu plug) which is the one I was wondering if it needs swapping for the R32 one? I have a yellow 4 pin plug and a black 2 pin sensor for the 3rd fan speed. I was just going to reuse the corrado stuff here. I'll be using the VR6 thermostat housing just to be clear.

    -What have you done about T121/62? Seems I can use G2/09 but it is unfused whereas the R32 came from a fused line. Is this a problem? Do I need to think about adding a fuse somewhere?
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ah ok i see, well 'yes to all' then :lol:

    with sai from what I understand if a company can code out all the reliance on the other car modules then they should also be able to turn off the SAI and N80. Have a word with toyotec though, he is the only man i would tyrust with my ecu ;)

    You actually have an N80 on a corrado so you could just plumb that in as is, snapping the r32 valve for the corrado one if you like.

    the blue sender is for the vr6 ecu, so ya just use the proper r32 sensor here as it saves any issues plus a bit of wire splicing. you can then use the corrado 4 pin sensor to drive the dash and fan module, pop in spare hole and done :)

    I use G2/9 for the ecu perm live, my thoughts are vw were happy with an unfused live feed to the VR6 ecu, so it'll be fine for a MK4+ ecu as well :)

    edit: g2/9 for perm live not g1/9!
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
    swiftkid likes this.
  10. swiftkid New Member

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    Thats great help rubjonny, I've sent a PM to toyotec, is that the best way to contact or do you have a number for him?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah pm on here or facebook, eventually he'll get back as is a busy man ;)
     
  12. swiftkid New Member

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    Jonny, you say you used G1/9 for ECU permanent live, was that meant to say G2/9? Can't seem to even find G1/9 on any of the wiring diagrams!
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sorry g2/9, blonde moment. you can use y spade too as per early vr6
     
  14. swiftkid New Member

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    Another quick question, I was going to chuck a pin in T121/54 Speed sensor but the Corrado has a Speedo sensor on top of the gearbox, do i'I still need to add pin 5r and if so why? I'm presuming the 1.8t conversions use them because its cable speedo Or something?
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the speed sensor on the gearbox feeds the clocks only, pin 54 is athe VSS output from the clocks to the ecu. i assume different signals? you have the VSS in your corrado already it comes out of W/1 and feeds a jumper block, this is what tells your spoiler to pop up at speed :)
     
  16. swiftkid New Member

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    Just finishing up the wiring at the moment and I appear to have found a stray wire not in my diagram, T121/28 - I believe something to do with the alternator? Does anyone know what needs doing with it? Its a blue/white wire
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    aye goes to alternator DFM which is on the 2 pin plug on the alternator itself
     
  18. swiftkid New Member

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    I realise I've overlooked something, ECU pins T121/17 & 50 go to a radiator outlet coolant temp sensor G83, I had assumed this was the coolant temp sensor used for the warm up map but realised its not. What needs doing with the wires? do they need to go anywhere? Can I leave them unplugged?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'm not sure exactly what it is for, my thoughts were it was for the electric waterpump control, or maybe aircon related perhaps?
     

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