OK, so here's the story in brief... my cambelt snapped on my beloved Audi 1.9 AFN Quattro I thought I'd take some pics and hopefully help out someone who has a similart nightmare... This should be helpful for either a cambelt change, a head gasket change or a top end rebuild... Tools you'll need... A good ratchet set A hex, star, torx and spline set A torque wrench capable of going 40-80 Nm A breaker bar Good spanners, not Wilco bendy ones Pliers VW tool like this http://www.bennetts.com/volkswagen-timing-tools/laser-tools-1868-813981-82427-426545.php Step one remove the bumper Pry out the plastic vent covers... Undo the torx screws in the wheelarches, you can easily get at these without removing the wheels by locking the wheels to one side then the next Then take out the hex bolts on the underside of the bumper, get a decent set, these will be impossible with allen keys unless you're Geoff Capes The bumper should now lift off... Step two removing the 'lock-carrier assembly' Start by removing The plugs from the horns The clips from the water pipes going into the radiator (top and bottom), these should pry out with a screwdriver, obviously water will fall out so be ready to catch it! The plugs from near the power steering reservior, these connect to the outside temp sensor and the electric fan The bonnet cable from the catch The air intake, just two screws and it pulls out of the airbox The plugs to the lights are best accessed once the lock carrier has been lifted forward Then remove the four torx head bolts from where the lock carrier bolts to the wing, then take the three bolts out which hold the bumper brackets on Pull the lock carrier forward carefully and lift it off with the help of a beautiful assitant or one of your ugly mates whichever really Step three Removing the old belt Worth noting - My belt had snapped so I couldn't mark everything up and replace the belt, but in order to do this a paint blob would need to be put on the cam sprocket, injector pump sprocket and the crank sprocket and corresponding marks on the plates behind them, although my recommendation is to get the tools and do it properly! You should now be faced with the belts and plenty of access to everything you need. I would start by holding the vicous fan still and removing the four 5mm hex bolts Then using a 15mm spanner turn the tensioner to slacken the serpentine belt, this should be easy to remove I then remove the tensioner sprocket, remember it has left-handed thread Take the plastic cover off, here's my snapped cam belt The bottom crank pulley needs to be removed, MAKE SURE YOU TAP THE FITTING INTO THE BOLTS WITH A HAMMER SO YOU DON'T ROUND THEM I then use my trusty DeWalt with a 6mm fitting, the safest thing to lock the crank is to put a 21mm socket on the centre multispline bolt and hold it still of lock if off against the ground Then remove the bottom plastic cover by taking out the three 10mm bolts, I managed to do the whole job leaving the fan unit in place, but one of these bolts is behind it and best accessed with a 1/4 drive ratchet Step four Removing the cylinder head First any bits connecting to the head need to be removed, there are two water pipes, one to the right of the head and one to the rear of the head. The injector pipes need to be cracked off with a 17mm spanner. Lots of the intake pipes and vac pipes should be removed Worth noting there are three glow plugs which go into the water flange at the back of the cylinder head The cam then needs to be locked off which the 19mm nut is removed. This will allow the head to lift away from the plate, there are two 10mm nuts which hold the plate the the cylinder head. The old tensioner also needs to be removed and should always be replaced (unless you know it's really new), the stud which the tensioners bolts onto also needs removing, the easiest way is to tighten two nuts onto each other and then wind it out on the nuts using a ratchet. I then think the easiest way to get the cylinder head loose is to undo the three 12mm nuts which bolt the cat to the turbo Unfortunately I forgot to take pics of this Once all of this is done you're ready to remove the 10 cylinder head bolts using the correct multispline bit. After removing these you should be able to lift the head off the block. Step five Stripping the cylinder head Fairly simple this, using a combination of spanners, small sockets etc... remove the 12mm nuts which bolt the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Don't worry too much about the nuts I would always replace these and they're readily available Pictures didn't come out too good but ask GSF for some copper split nuts for an exhaust manifold, they're 'pence' each The inlet manifold should then be removed. I sent the cylinder head to local engineers to get my bent valves changed, as I don't like doing half a job I had the hydraulic followers swapped (these are usually scored or punctured by the valves when the pistons push them up) I had the head cleaned as it was very gunky, I also had it faced up, beware of having too much skimmed as the valves protrude from the head and this can result in them being too close to the pistons. I bought a head gasket set from the internet (this doesn't include the gasket) and got a OEM gasket. You should also always swap the 10 cylinder head bolts as they're stretch bolts. Step six Refitting the cylinder head I removed the the plate to make access easier but this isn't necessary. Re-attach everything which was removed from the head with new gaskets, clean all faces with a wire brush, take the opportunity to clean everything IMPORTANT Before refitting the head the timing MUST be set otherwise the valves will bend again!! Below is info on how to do this from autodata... Set the crank by turning the crank sprocket with a 21mm multispline socket, the '0' needs to line up with the edge of the black plate through the viewing hole on the gearbox to the flywheel To set the cam timing on the head, put the sprocket back on and nip it up, turn the cam until the plate is able to fit in the slot at the back of the camshaft, this should only fit in one way in a full revolution Clean the block face with emery and wipe out the inside of the bores and pay special attention to the combustion chambers in the pistons Wind old bolts into the bolt holes to draw out any water, everything MUST be dry when the new gasket is torqued down Using the dowel place the gasket on the block and carefully lift the head into place. (if you have a grinder, grind the heads of the old bolts and use them to help place the head back on) The new bolts should be wound in. Using a torque wrench set the torque to 40Nm and tighten in the following sequence The set the torque wrench to 60Nm and tighten again in the same sequence The next step is to do to 90 degree tightens, I put a chalk mark on the top of every bolt head at 12 o'clock and then used a breaker bar to do the 90 degree tightens, still observing the sequence One of these is better though You should now have this Step seven Refitting the belt After double checking you timing marks fit the plate the back of the camshaft, remove the cam sprocket Turn the injector pump sprocket until the locking pin fits in, remember this has to go through the smallest hole in an approximately 3 o'clock position as you look at it Starting the crank pull the belt around the injector pump, you need to put the belt into the cam sprocket and then fit the sprocket onto the taper Using a pair of long nose pliers turn the tensioner until the marks line up and tighten the 13mm nut in the middle. Turn the engine over a few times checking that all of the marks line up Run a little oil over the cam shaft Connect the injector pipes and reassemble I generally start the car with it all still out incase something is wrong. Remember to take the pin from the injector pump and the plate from the back of the camshaft As I'm writing this I'm sure I've forgotten to mention something so please feel free to correct me!!
Spooky... just had a similar problem with my Audi 80 TDI - The alternator belt snapped, fouled the bottom pulley / PAS belt and caused the engine to stall, and made the cam belt skip. I seem to have got away without any bent valves, but the tops of the hydraulic lifters are marked up, so they'll be getting changed. While I'm in there, I'm giving the head casting a little clean up in the ports, cleaned all the crud out of the inlet tracts, and fitting an EGR blank to stop it all from sooting up again. I was talking to Herr Doktor Danster about this last night, and might also try removing or boring through the cat, as he reckons it will probably be blocked up with soot. I need to talk to my local MOT man about the emissions tests on diesels first though. I got Elring gaskets from GSF, including the correct grade of head gasket, and the same Laser timing tools as you've linked to, all on the lovely CGTI discount. Not sure if that's the same as yours, as yours is a later engine type, but it looks very similar.
So a mild port on the head, what next megasquirt, bigger turbo . I would sell the cat if the mot guy says it is ok, cats usually worth a good chunk at the recyclers.
Nah, just thought I'd give it a quick tidy up and help it to go as well as possible in 'standard' spec. Danster reckoned the Cat won't make any difference on an MOT for a diesel, and is probably choked up. If I take the cat off, I'll hang onto it for a bit, but hopefully sell it on once I've passed an MOT - good plan!
My cat seemed OK but I'd always chuck one of those if I thought I could get away with it!! Yours being a bit older you might be able to. The laser tools are OK, I do find their cam locking tool a little sloppy, i used feeler gauges to pack it out. My inlet manifold and head was proper gunked up, mind you i'm running on biodiesel. I thought about blanking the EGR but mine had split wires going to the plug so it'd not been working anyway. Is the audi 80 on the ribbed alternator belts?
Cats removed does make a bit of a difference, you can put a staight though exhaust on and the noise doesn't make much difference glad it wen't back all well new belt is far cheaper than a head job
You will pass an MOT fine without a CAT on a Diesel. Unless the tester winges about the cat not being there but they generally don't.
I'll bear that in mind, if the cat goes then I wont be replacing it. Never used a genuine one, I just assumed it was some 'laser' quality Anyone adjusted the injector pump based on VAGCOM readings? It is easy enough?
Easy enough to do the timing if you have full vag-com with the tdi timing tool. Bolts on the pump are a bit fiddly but not the end of the world.
i haven't got full vagcom i dont think. I might buy me a copy of that. Is it do-able without taking the front off?
Same for me on the laser tools, but works fine once packed out. I guess every cam is slightly different. Inlet manifold had about 3mm of gunge in it. Yes, the Alternator is a ribbed belt, and only runs the alternator on the Audi. I think maybe the tensioner (new) was slightly out of line and caused the belt (nearly new) to fail. Everything seems to turn ok - no stiff pulleys or anything.
I've measured the injector timing using VAGCOM on my Audi 80 TDI, which was pretty easy, but didn't have to adjust it. I don't see why you couldn't adjust the pump with the radiator in, but maybe the later cars have less room (Aircon and other such frippery).
i looked and it seems I could get my 1/4 drive down to undo the mounting bolts through the sprocket. To be honest though i'm getting 45mpg and it's driving nice so i wondering how out it can be
