Battery Mounting Question

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by f2 ed, Dec 22, 2012.

  1. f2 ed Forum Member

    I've got this alloy cage for my battery. Whats the best way to mount it?

    Just drill 4 holes in the cage & 4 holes in the floor & bolt it down?

    Obviously i want it to be safe

    [​IMG]
     
  2. pascal77uk Paid Member Paid Member

    It would be better inside the wheel base and as low as possible, the rear passenger foot well is ideal
     
  3. f2 ed Forum Member

    hmmm, that would mean using less cable and i like that

    I still have carpet in that area though and for the moment, original seats on runners
     
  4. Mike_H Forum Addict

    I have mine behind the pass seat. Is that for a full size battery? Have a measure up to see if it will fit.

    You want to make sure the battery isn't sat direct on the bolt heads - a piece of wood can solve that.

    Ideally you want to be able to get the seat out without pulling battery and tray.

    Is the car still a daily? If not, carpet is heavy, although so are standard seats and mounts. ;)
     
  5. Mike_H Forum Addict

    Big rivet nuts make it easier to bolt the cage in and out.
     
  6. vr6smith Forum Member

    What cable are you going to use? I've been looking myself, the norm seems to be 135amp? From what I've seen anyway.
     
  7. Mike_H Forum Addict

    Mine came out of an Audi 200 Quattro - had to cut it down and put a new end on it. A lot of BMWs and Mercs also have long, thick cables to rear mounted batteries.
     
  8. f2 ed Forum Member

    Standard battery so its pretty big. Got 4 meters of 4awg battery cable. I read alot of people saying you have to use 0awg, but the people that i've spoke to using 4awg havn't had any problems. BMWs don't use 0awg and they have longer than 4 meters to the back
     
  9. f2 ed Forum Member

    Ok, not enough room behind passenger seat

    Would it be better in the spare wheel well, or on the left flat area?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Mike_H Forum Addict

    Hmmmm - inside the wheelbase is better. Don't much like either of those though. Is there enough legroom in the pass footwell to put it in there maybe?

    I'm assuming you're using a sealed, and ideally a gel battery, to avoid any possible acid leaks.
     
  11. f2 ed Forum Member

    Back into the engine bay now.
    Looks like the positive battery lead comes off the battery & splits. Big cable goes to starter motor & small blue cable goes to alternator.

    Hmm, do i have to split my new power cable?
     
  12. Dave R

    Dave R Forum Member

    Get a distribution block, your new cable goes into one end and the other will have 2 or more connection points
     
  13. f2 ed Forum Member

    That will do it
     
  14. f2 ed Forum Member

    [​IMG]

    everything done now, just need that distributor block
     
  15. turbotommy Forum Member

    I just used the starter motor as a distribution block if that helps.
     
  16. Mike_H Forum Addict

    Yep you can do that. I left the original battery leads in place, and put the positive one inside a waterproof junction box ( cost 2 or 3 quid - used for ponds and outside lights) so if I ever need to reconnect a battery in the original place (e.g. as a get me home fix) then I've still got all the cables there. I just connected the new +ve cable to the original clamp, which takes care of starter and alternator connections.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2012
  17. f2 ed Forum Member

    Oh right. So battery + to starter, then another from starter to alternator? Didn't think of that
     
  18. f2 ed Forum Member

    [​IMG]

    tidy
     
  19. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

    That looks like a standard battery to me?

     
  20. Mike_H Forum Addict

    You can get full size sealed batteries too - Torque Starters were one brand from years ago. It's unlikely to happen, but if you have a big smash or a roll, you could have sulphuric acid flying around in the cabin.
     

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