6 degrees is only the setting for a standard engine. If yours runs better on 7, 8 or more, then use that. A little bit more advance might help the pickup, but it's a pretty lumpy cam too.
my vernier was set to standard marks. matched with old pulley... how come it dont mater what it says with blue sensor plugged in, is alot more steady with it plugged in and dropped right down. car dont like it. but why wouldnt the co come down with it unplugged? almost new afm, i just took the blue plug out when i put this engine in. tb is mint, i cleaned my old one as all the switchs were all lingned up still with the yellow paint. idle screw was right out on both trottle bodys and both engines. i was thinking of filing the point off abit to let more air through.. all earths are good. added extras from my old 20vt grounding kit why would i plug the isv, i thought i had to plug the pcv to stop cranckcase fumes being drawn in and the ecu is brand new, almost, only bout 6months old, but made no difference with my origanal bosch unit
it does run a little better at 7 degrees but at 6 my hc comes down a extra 1000 or so ppm. but doesnt idle as well.
oh, and should my afm flap be steady at idle, when i was running rougher the other day when i took the cone off the flap was boncing up and down. if i add more tension to it would it make the mixture too lean troughout the range? thanks
doesnt matter what it says with blue sensor plugged in as setup procedure references co value with it unplugged. you might not be able to hold it as low as 850rpm for setup because of cam but should be able to keep a fairly steady 1k even with it unplugged. if not theres an underlyin prob assumin blue sensor is in good condition, coolant system is gettin up to temp + doesnt have any air locks then should all be good when youve fixed underlyin prob and plug it back in again. your right you dont plug the isv, you leave it open to atm pressure. you plug the hose that runs to from air intake if afm is almost new and hasnt been played with then afm flap resistance should be fine.. like you say addin tension will likely lean it out further up rev range. car should be able to run fine and pass emmisions with cam timing standard, ign timing standard, afm tension standard etc etc just more variables to screw with your head
screwing with my head aint thr word mate, i went and sealed my exhaust, no difference, set eqal overlap as best i could by eye, but with ignition timing about 6 degrees it runs low, cuts out when the fan kicks in etc. i been plugging the pcv hose to the inlet, havent been touching the isv, would that make a difference atall? im just about to try my old afm cause i got this one on half a turn in from all the way out and co wont go below 3.5. car seems to be running 100 times better, doesnt feel that fast but i think i know what the problom is, just dont know whats causing it. if my ignition timings at 6 degrees, it bogs when trying to rev it, but hc is quite low, co is 3-4%, so over fuelling and bogging right. so if i can get it at 6 degrees with low hc, then bring the co down it shouldnt bog atall. just cant get the co down
never tried setting adj. pulley up so dont no how close you can really get it by eye.. wouldnt fancy tryin to get tdc to any acuracy without a dial gauge. any doubts id go back to original for time being. think were talkin bout blockin same hose and yea isv left open is fine could try a drop of oil down fpr inlet.. might free it up if its stickin. also check vac hose to fpr runs to n/s tb inlet
been outside, blocked off isv ytrottle body pipe. car wouldnt idle, blocked off both pipes, car still wouldnt idle. so done it with isv connected, blue sensor disconnected. got the co down to 1.4-2.3 up and down with my old 127k afm, but hc still high, if i back off the ignition it barely idles and cuts out when the fan kicks in. so now its at 7degrees ignition, cam on eqal overlap, c.o .30 with sensor plugged on, 1.4-2.3 unplugged, hc on 2200-2600 regardless. and i have to drive from heathrow to harlow tonight so il see what happens, idle still drops abit low when you push the clutch in, but doesnt cut out. anymore thoughts. thanks
could leave isv runnin in some petrol for half hr or so.. also check rocker bung. check tb idle switch is workin (should click just before it shuts or use multimeter.. can also check its gettin 5v) fuel injector resitances? (4.7-5ohm across all four) give it all the berries to harlow hope it clears itself out?? pass edit: 3.7-5 ohms across all four injectors
lol, i feel like passing on this one,. shame i cant, isv is suppose to be nearly new at 170 cost to the preivious owner. but i do have another, i salvaged all the known working parts from my old engine to try for comparison just incase, but im running out of options now. thanks mate
all the switchs seem to work fine aswell. do you know if the spade on the dizzi should have a earth on it?
original dizzy cap would have had metal shroud earthed to spade on dizzy.. iirc caps you get now are all plastic so shroud/earth strap becomes redundant. you got a spare alternator? i know fan cuttin in drops co's when you do setup but fact its killin it completely might be sign things arent gettin enough current? clutchin at straws abit but easy thing to swap!
I dont have a spare but i will check it with my multimeter tomorrow. Its fine when the sensors plugged in though
So i made it to harlow. Stuck in a hotel now. On the motorway if i sit at a steady speed it was jerking, could have even been hesitation. It also felt quite flat. Hardly any torque, but at one stage i got 100 at 4k. But then was like 80 at 4k. So could it be running lean or because iv got timing at 7degrees. Felt strong at full trottle but flat. Cant even check my plugs. Bought everything with me but a plug socket. Unless i buy another one. I got about six already.
quarter turn in on the mixture screw and it idles better but has made this light trottle jerk abit more pronounced. Could running rich cause a light trottle jerk?
I whipped a plug out, and it was white. With co around 2 and hc around 2500ppm, so it needs richening up abit. How would i tell by driving that the cam is to advanced or to retarded?
Ok, for the tread i turned the mixure screw in another turn, and it was abit jerky when cold but smoothed off quite abit when it warmed up. I only did about 3miles, took #1 plug out and its started browning on the side of the electrode. So im on the right trak so iv gave it another qarter turn in. Ign timing still at 7 degrees btdc. Cam still at eqal overlap. So my plan:- im going to get it running best i can. Getting plugs to the right colour. Then il see if i can get abit more ignition timing. Or should i leave it at 7? Then il advance the cam abit at a time. I take it where the cam comes in will be very noticeable? Or not so? And would i need to do the mixture again after i advance the cam? Thanks everyone
got this driving better but still no real performance. so anyone got a answer to my origanal question? whats the best cam for day to day in a solid tappet 8v head. im more interested in good custumer service and back up rather than price etc. thanks
i'm using a kent gs2 in mine, seems fine so far, but that's on a 2l so might have a rougher idle on a 1.8l.
