Dont see how that would make much difference, the throttle's closed when on the brakes. I saw the pics of yr car earlier in the VAG track car section, does'nt look like the sort of car that needs a servo (i.e.. going to the shops in !), in fact it looks very good, be a shame to take those carbs off. It's easy (and does'nt have to be expensive) to get the brakes to work well without the servo. I know it's not the right section (sorry mods) but whats yr brake spec ?... PM me or start a new thread if you like.
Oh, we'll just carry on here as it's all inter-connected Brakes are standard 239mm front (albeit drilled) and drums rear, 16v servo and m.c. The engine is from the ex-Eyre, ex-Tippet mk1. I really don;t want to go to the expense of a pedal box set-up and am on the verge of going back to K-Jet and losing the extra 20bhp gained from the carbs. I read elsewhere (one of your posts actually lol) that using a non-servo m.c. could help?
I'm sure we'll be moved if needs be. The 239's need to go, though I had good results many years ago just by changing the pads. No idea what I had in there but after about three hard applications there were gone ! I fitted M1144's back then and had a good result with them, even good around Castle Coombe, I only had about 115hp then but used to press on a bit and never had a problem. I'm not a huge fan of drilled/groved discs on the smaller brakes as I feel to much surface area is sacrificed, on a bigger disc maybe drilled "or" grooved only but "never" both. Four grooves is more than enough (even two really), I think people like Tarox, who have more grooves than disc face, forget that brakes discs actually turn !... I run a plain face 270 disc machined down from a 280 Corrado G60 (so they fit inside 14" wheels, leave them at 280 for 15" wheels) with the standard GTi caliper mounted on extension brackets. I use Ferrodo DS3000's these days which are "brilliant", the brakes worked great like this. I then removed the servo & crosslinkage for a number of reasons, weight, I wanted a bit more room around the carbs and I wanted a direct acting brake rather than moving all those links and quadrants. I used a non servo Polo cylinder (second hand to start with just in case it did'nt work) and it worked fine. The cylinder sits straight on the studs left when the quadrent is removed. You have to grind around/away the boss around the back of the master cyl so it fits in the hole (or open out the hole if the engine is out, but i see thats no longer an option) in the bulkhead and then shorted the pushrod shaft and round off the nose to fit into the master, or as I did, use the original pushrod (for the round nose) and weld it to a yoke, never had a problem like this even with vigorious use ! Rear drums are fine, just need to be kept adjusted properly. I now have a pedal box assembly, the pedal is firmer but dispite others opinions, it was a tw*t to fit, maybe a rouge copy... but I wouldnt recommend one at all unless it was for competition use, even then not until all other avenues have been down first, better pads, bigger discs etc. The other reason for the pedal box was to remove the master from the side of the carbs so I could build an airbox, but for the big expence and small gain it's not needed for 90% of use. Would be a shame to go back to K-jet now you have the carbs. In fact, if it's a fairly lumpy cam (which it no doubt is) over 290 degrees it'll run like a dog at low rpm/throttle oppenings, lumpy cams dont work well with plemum type manifolds, mapped or otherwise. You'd just as well have put a road tune engine in if you go back to a standard type set up.... please dont do it [:^(] ... carbs all the way ! If I get a chance I'll take a vid of some high (ish) speed braking, make a change from all this acceleration stuff !
