Big ABF problems (Update 15/5... FIXED... or so I thought!!!)

What boost pressure you managed to reach ??? When I test drove my ABF turbo, I drove it too with stock ECU and it's 120 Kpa MAP sensor.
ECU would let me reach 0,2 bar after which it would kill the fuel/spark forcing the engine Rpm's to drop (same mode as rew limiter)
On the other side, I drove the car like that for 20-30 km's and those 0,2 bars of positive pressure caused no damage to the sensor. Engine ran fine as long as I kept it under 0,2 bars

Hope it helps !

 

couldnt tell you to be honest, but thats what it displays, a load of 1s and 0s and those combinations show you situation the ecu currently sees

when my map sensor had issues it never showed over run

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not actually sure what boost pressure it would have been - not much in any case, as it was only revved at idle with the turbo on, but I'm told by one of the software guys at work (I work at Bosch) that this was potentially enough to kill the MAP

I've just had a new ECU turn up, so I've pulled the MAP out of this and soldered it into my current ECU (024BE so immobilised, meaning I couldn't just plug and play). I'll report back on the results tomorrow.

In other news, though. I've fitted the new throttle microswitch and it made no difference: the idle still pulses badly when it's plugged in - it will only idle well when the switch is disconnected

 

goodluck!

 

It finally turned up then?
Pity it didn't solve the problem.

 

Hey Glen, actually it still hasn't come - mail to Australia can be slow sometimes! Luckily my new one I ordered ages ago turned up, though Thanks for your help in any case

Sooo, an update... well, I fitted the new MAP and it does run better, but still not right.

What does everyone make of this:

The idle will hunt consistently and sit at about 1500rpm with the microswitch connected, but it idles pretty well with it unplugged. What the hell is going on here?!

EDIT: And hunting only starts once the engine has warmed up. Cold start with the microswitch and ISV plugged in is perfect...

I've even replaced the TPS as well. When under normal driving conditions, it runs a million times better with the microswitch plugged in (initial throttle response is much better), but as soon as you pull up, it hunts like nothing else. Without the microswitch plugged in, the engine does tend to bog down when taking off initially, but it's better than a hunting idle...

What the bloody hell can I do next... This is truly unbelievable...

 

had a usonic injector cleaning? sometimes it is the key.

 

Not read the rest of this, but have you tried a different temp sender?

 

Yeah, have done this too - made some difference

Temp sender code actually came up over the weekend, so I'm going to get one of these too. I'd be surprised if it has such a drastic affect on results, but I'm willing to try anything

The car actually ran ok last night, but is still feeling "flat", coughs and splutters under 3k when cold and fueling is all over the place [:^(]

 

Sounds like a temp sender to me.

 

As above or air leak after tb

 

So, time for an update!

I've replaced the air temp sensor and hunting idle has been cured... but now there's a bad misfire between about 2k-4k once the engine has warmed up (this has always been a minor issue, but has gradually got worse!).

The other very strange thing I've noticed is this:

- I replaced all the plugs and ran the car for a short drive, then pulled them straight out to inspect and they are fouling unevenly!!! Cyl 2 and 4 (IIRC) look healthy(ish) in colour, but 1 and 3 are fouled up!! Recently, a code reading "Cyl #1 injector fault" did appear, but was cleared and never came back.

- You can hear at idle when cold that the running is rough, like 2 cyls aren't firing correctly...

- My next idea is to try another fuel rail

- Any opinions on this one?!

Cheers

 

Compressions are all pretty strong... I've got hold of a spare rail for cheap, so I'll plug that in and see what happens

On another note, too; the miss isn't there all the time. Some drives, the car runs well, other times it's runs like ****!

I'm tempted to just get a whole new harness and rail etc off a donor car, but sick of working on the fecking thing

 

Just re-did a comp check just to make sure (hot engine numbers):

1: 211psi 2: 210 3: 212 4: 210

Miss is still there

Plugs are black and probably not helping the issue.

One of the few parts I've not replaced yet is the coil...

What are coil symptoms on an ABF?

I'm about to sell off this car - so sick of this

 

when you say the plugs are fouled ? what colour white or black?

could either be fuel supply to rail/fpr causing a lean missfire (plugs white)


crank of dizzy sensor if loosing sync could also make a miss fire or a coil breaking down (black plugs) runing rich ... only from past stuff the coils are pooo on these the break at the base and the spark arcs across the coil if you wait till night time and pop the bonnet and rev the car if its the coil you may see it arc when the missing starts


tommy

 

Yep, swapped the rail - no difference... Also checked the spray patterns on both rails and they're perfectly matched.

It's interesting, though... When I first put in new plugs, 2 cyl foul up quickly and the other 2 are ok, but eventually all become evenly fouled and are pitch black in colour

I'm still inclined to try a different coil, just because of all the known issues with these coils

Will give that a go too

On another note, I still haven't replaced the ECU relay 30 - I best order one on Monday and see what happens with that. Current one is warm after use and I doubt it's the problem, though.

I hadn't really considered dissy problems yet... Not heard of ABFs with a faulty dissys really. My biggest issue in Aus is getting hold of parts like this to try and I'm reluctant to buy a new one as I have spent a fortune on this car

Just to recap what I have replaced trying to sort all these issues:

- Dissy cap & rotor
- Leads & plugs
- MAP sensor
- ECU coolant temp sensor
- Air temp sensor
- Fuel rail and carbon clean of system
- Lambda sensor
- TPS & microswitch
- ECU bench test (OK)
- Vacuum lines
- Fuel pump relay
- Crank angle sensor
- Lift and main fuel pumps

The $$$ are adding up and I'm still not getting a happy car!

For a while there, it ran ok (only missing slightly when cold), but was still fouling plugs up badly - now it misses all the time, cold or hot!

 

P.S. And still feels flat and underpowered for a healthy engine with very low miles and strong compressions!

 

OK... Just took it out again and the miss is gradually getting worse (still clears after 3-3.5k RPM, though).

But I just filled it with fuel and then tried to start it again... Started OK, but idle shot up to 1500RPM and it died repeatedly as soon as I touched the throttle! After several attempts, the idle returned to normal and I was able to drive off (thank feck - thought I'd have to get it towed home!).

Once I got home, I tested it again: turned it off, started it, idled high and died as soon as I touched the throttle!!

This didn't happen during cold start this morning.

Really suspecting coil now... I'll pick one up during the week and see what happens