So here it is, my first post! And here's the run down prior to posting the my questions. I have an '89 Scirocco - currently running on standard 1.8 DX with 32/34 DMTL. I am going to be (very soon) stripping it back to metal and rebuilding it, part of which is dropping in a 2E lump on the DX head (flowed and ported) with uprated cam and the other gubbins required to complete the job. Now blame Jake for the 2E lump direction and MikeH for the head porting and cam inquisition I am now undertaking. I have a 2E block (actually I have the whole engine and tranny - it was basically disconnected from drive shafts and wot not any pipes and cables removed and that's what I have) So bearing in mind the above, I basically have 2 complete powerplant setups to go back in, but obviously only need one of the combinations required I want to KEEP the weber carb configuration - if I go injected at a later date it'll be mega squirt, but currently my funds don't stretch that far. So far, I understand that I will need to do the following 1. Keep DX Dizzy - I have a guy ready to make me a collet to stick in the 2E lump. 2. Either block up or use the breather (I'm gonna see if the 2 litre rocker cover is gonna bolt straight on - if it is... use the breather, if not, block it up) 3. DX Head ported and flowed. I have a 2.5 exhaust at present which is fine, so not going to bother iwth aftermarket zorst manifold at the mo'. Will probably get the manifold ported with the head, along with inlet. SO... onto the questions, and hopefully some guidance from you chaps and chapesses... Q1 - It's going to be a road car, I've looked at various cam shafts, including some from the States, however, getting a definitive answer is never going to be easy, SO the best way for me to thin the list down now is to ask what would NOT be suitable (due to quality, lumpiness of idle etc) rather than what's good. Was looking at specs similar to the Neuman Fast Road with 268ish duration, they're all basically around that spec. Q2 - Weber Porting. Now I realise that I am not going to be able to get a fine tuned carb til I get it on a RR, however, will it be adviseable to change the jetting on the Carb when I reassemble the gubbins? If so, anyone with a bit of insight into the various jets n wotnot that would be a good baseline? Q3 - Gearbox - Is the tranny on the 2E (from a Mk3 Golf GTi) going to be a suitable user or am I going to be better off sticking with the box I currently have on the DX (020)? (I need to start planning on buying seals and shizzle! Q4 - Pulleys and cogs - Use the 2E ones or the DX ones transferred over? Q5 - Would it be rude to paint the block/head/rocker cover/tranny Chevy orange? Q6 - can I ask more questions if I get confused? Cheerrs for now, Rich
I'm to blame for everything... always. Q1 - If I was buying a cam tomorrow, I'd be looking at Cat Cams I think, or see what comes up 2nd hand, but check condition carefully before buying. Q2 - probably, but I dunno what to Q3 I'd go for the one from your Rocco Q4 DX ones mostly - unless you're planning to use the 2E alternator Q5 Yuck! Q6 No... we have a limit of 5 questions per user, then we get shirty with them.
And regarding Cam I'd probably go for new with new lifters tbf. I've never really been one for buying second hand if new is available. At least there should be "some" form of warranty that would go with it.
There is a shirty factor. This factor is dependant on post count. Factor is set to 0.988 if post counter ≤10
Me too Especially as the car is gonna be close to the neww Rocco Sumatra colour... deep metallic anthracite with a hint of burgundy! Should set it off nicely and could well be the new black LMHAO
OI! CAN I JUST make one thing clear... At least it's not Ford Orange Anyways... before this just goes too far into the realms of dissin' the orange (which is a good colour!!) I am now torn between a techtonics and a nueman cam. Can't find any cat cam dealers online, so that one's on hte burner for a while. Link Mike?
Cat cams UK Dealer: QUALITY ENGINEERED PRODUCTS UNIT 10 OLD KILN WORKS,DITCHLING COMMON IND.ESTATE BN6 8SG HASSOCKS WEST SUSSEX - phone +44 1444 243720 - fax +44 1444 247906 - website www.catcams.co.uk - email info@catcams.co.uk
small point, but the dx engine was CIS - if you've got a 1.8 on a carb then it's EX.. Q1. Cams - dunno, the earlier advice sounds good though. Q2. Save any work on the carb for an expert, they're magical beasties, and in the hands of the inexpert can yield pretty random results. You'll probably need re-jetting but it'll run well enough with stock jets. Q3. Gearbox - the 8v 020 isn't the toughest out there, though I doubt a 2.0l 8v would kill it, just speed up it's demise.. The 02A which I think is what's on the 2E is a stronger box, and better designed internally however you've got cable-change and a hydraulic clutch to factor in - if you like hassle then go for it, however for an easy life stick with the 020 and be prepared to replace it (or bits of it). Q4. pulleys will depend on which ancillaries you choose - chances are the stuff on the 2E are driven from a serpentine belt, whereas the stock rocco goodies are all of V-belts - fit pulleys to suit the application. You may want to invest in a vernier cam sprocket as the timing will be a little off when you put the 2.0l bottom end in (belt is longer). Chances are you'll have to do this anyway when you buy your cams. Q5. Nothing wrong with painting engines, and I doubt anyone will be able to tell chevy orange from not-chevy orange anyway so why loose sleep over it.. just don't do what I did, and paint it red, only to find that it comes out pink on a digital camera Avoid tetrosyl paint for this, it also doesn't cover too well, and lets the block rust underneath Keep the head alloy, just clean it up and it'll stay nice for a good while.
I googled "cat cams uk" and their website was the top result. Google is your friend. The 020 box will be fine for your needs. 02A boxes are heavier, with heavier flywheels, and you don't have the torque to need one. If you want to be safe, get an 020 rebuilt with diff bolts (and maybe fit a Quaife diff while you're there) at a later date. If you're painting the engine, make sure you use proper high temp paint suitable for engines. Hopefully it's only available in proper colours
Cheers Rocketeer, and yes, EX, typo on my part!! I can get access to the 02A box if I want it, for little spondoolies, and in honesty, I don't mind the faff either way as I'm doing a full car rebuild so the temptation is there to go full rebuild and drop the injection gubbins in... but I like the sound of a carb and I like the fact that even I can tinker with it, so will probably stay carb for the short term. I think if I decided to go injection it'd be to a more up to date spec motor at a later date. If I'm gonna go throwing loads of money at it, might as well do it properly, haha. Pulleys, gonna stick with the 2E, seems to make sense with the longer length required, and for the sake of changing the cam sprocket to a toothed vernier, it'd be daft not to Yup, Chevvy Orange is available abundantly, lol. And yes Mike, I did that too (the google thing) however, when I get to the correct shop page there's no way to add anything to your cart, or am I missing a trick there? In english, you lost me there? And I checked out the prices on a quaife.... errr.. not in my budget at the moment. All in all, gonna contemplate the 020/02A quandry. Will the additional weight of the 02A make THAT much of a difference? Bear in mind this is neither a track toy or ANY form of trailer queen... it just needs to be a solid day to day car, with a bit of attitude about it. There is also the obvious question aroiund mounts, and I realise justcaddys do them for 165... are they necessary for a Mk2 Scirocco or will it just bolt straight in?
Sorry - I missed this post last week. I can't get see how the Cat Cams webshop works either. You might just have to give them a call. On the gearbox part, the standard VW diffs are held together by big rivets, and after anywhere between 100k and 250k+ miles (depending on luck / how they're driven / other) they can let go and trash your gearbox. Rebuilding them with bolts makes them stronger, but it's a major job. Seriously, I wouldn't bother with an 02A box on an 8v lump, or anything with less than 200 bhp, but it's up to you.
Coool, cheers for that Mike. The gear box (which ever one I use) is getting stripped anyways for powerder coating as they're both a lot dirty and not the right colour. I take it that it's just a case of drilling the rivets and replacing with the right bolts? I suppose I just need to decide whether I want the convenience of the cable change mechanism and the challenge of hydraulic cluth, which in all honesty is more about vanity than performance. I have a plan, haha!! My other consideration is that in terms of future proofing, least if the 02A is fitted it'd just be a case of swapping out the block at a future date. I don't really wanna have to store a gear box in the eventuality I'm gonna do that. Choices choices...
