In fact once the temperature gauge is almost central, the coolant really, really bubbles over the side of the coolant tank like there's no tomorrow.
Thanks Pete. You're right - the last time I did this test, the coolant was much lower in temperature and I'm not used to seeing it pressure over. But... Since I torqued all fasteners to 82 ft lbs, the Block Tester remains perfectly blue. And it did so for several tests. Prior to checking the ARP torques, it went yellow on both tests that I did. Could that additional, say, 15 to 20 ft lbs on various fasteners to bring them all to 82 ft lbs really have made a difference? I'm well chuffed - if this is not some kind of a red herring. Trev
Repeated a compression test after re-torque of ARPs: Edit: All cylinders between 150 and 155 psi. Hard to give a specific figure for each cylinder because the readings actually seemed to change a bit each time I tested. The first time I did the test I had the two outer cylinders at 142ish and the two inner cylinders at 152ish; but on repeating the test (and giving the battery some more charge) I got over 150 psi on every cylinder. The compression figures I had from last weekend (again with engine fairly warm) were: 145 133 132 136 And the compression figures from six months ago (engine done barely any miles since then): 131 125 126 124 So I think that the re-torque has cleared up the CO in coolant issue and also made the dry compression figures a little higher and more uniform! Still loads of steam from the exhaust when it's idling but it must be condensation in the exhaust. Everywhere is frosty.
Not done anything with the car since that last post but it seems that the re-torque of the ARPs has solved the problem. The question is, could the head gasket now have been weakened? Once the engine has been run-in, I'm putting it into the Syncro. Assuming that the engine does run in okay and the problems don't come back, do you guys reckon it's worthwhile changing the head gasket when the engine is out? The only thing that's worrying me about doing this is that I don't know how many more times the head can be skimmed. I'm assuming it may need a skim, due to vrbanana's advice about how metal ABF head gaskets can deface the aluminium. If it all seems okay, shall I leave it well alone?
Interesting thread this Trev. Without access to a coolant tester I have a similar sort of problem with my 16vG60 now I finally have it running. With the oil and water temp gauges not even reading the top hose is very warm and as soon as the thermostat open coolant goes everywhere. I even managed to split the side weld in a brand new VAG header tank the coolant pressure is that high. Will go and re-torque my ARP nuts to 80 lb ft, but I have the BBM cooper headgasket so it is a similar problem.
Interesting to hear you're having similar issues, and I hope you get it sorted. I will add to this that, having not done anything with the engine for many months (since posting this thread) and then starting it again recently, once again it seems to run okay now without silly amounts of steam coming from the back. I did still have some excessive steam in December but that must have been due to cold winter conditions plus lots of water in the exhaust due to it idling lots on the driveway. The steam I had at one stage really was extremely excessive though - so I know that the re-torque has made a difference for sure. Coolant stays in the centre as it should do. Thinking about it, I have never had the coolant go stupidly hot. It would always warm up and go to the centre, even prior to the re-torque. You can get the Block Tester via eBay. Mine stopped going totally yellow and remained totally blue once I did the re-torque. Ages ago I got the BBM copper head gasket myself (as did KeithMac too, if I remember right) but I / we ditched this gasket after research suggested that they required some special rings, or some special sealer to be applied, or something like that. Can't quite remember because it was years ago. I know that it's a totally flat gasket and it does not have any raised areas like the ABF metal head gasket does. So thinking back, it really would not surprise me if you had pressure leakage across one of those BBM spacer gaskets unless you had some other sealer of some kind in there too. I can't remember what BBM's stand on this is. In the end Keith went for stacked gaskets and I went for custom pistons. It sounds like we have both suffered pressure into coolant but mine was a tiny leak and yours is a considerably greater leak. Maybe you need to consider fitting stacked VW gaskets instead? What are your compression figures? Have you done a leakdown test (if that's what it's called)? You can do this really cheaply and easily using a compressor and a leak test tool made by combining (a) a compression tester and (b) a compressor tyre pump tool. Chop the 'spark plug' end off the compression tester, and chop the 'trigger' part off the tyre pump by cutting the hoses; then join the trigger to the plug using a hose joiner. Use a bike tyre valve tool to remove valve out of spark plug bit. You now have a tool that lets you push air into a cylinder via spark plug socket. Trigger the air in and look for bubbles in coolant. Possibly not worth you doing this test because it's pretty obvious you have a large leak.
Not done any major testing yet but I went for the BBM cooper gasket with the S2 pistons and rods (it was standard width) so I can get away with fitting a standard width PG headgasket. I did use some cooper spray gasket on assembly (that was years ago too) as that was what BBM specified at the time. I may take the head off and apply it more generously than before as the ARP studs mean I don't need to splash out on new stretch bolts; coupled with my inlet manifold arrangement means it easy to do the head. I think the current plan is go for a re-torque, then move onto resealing the existing head gasket (its not like the engine has been run much so all the seals etc are good). If that doesn't work then its onto fitting a stock VAG item instead. Not done a leakdown check yet but again that is something to look at if the headgasket does not cure the problem, although given all the info I would expect it to be a headgasket sealing issue.
The sealant you need for a copper HG is Yamabond, or Hondabond, or Stihl Dirko (vomit at the price of the Stihl stuff, but it literally only needs a smear). Copper spray seems to have gone out of fashion a bit in favour of the new stuff. I use Dirko for sealing chainsaw cylinders instead of a gasket, for higher compression - seals fine at 16k rpm..
I used a pair stacked G60 gaskets with arp studs, it`s survived a couple of trackdays at 1bar + boost and fair few miles.. As Trev say`s the copper gaskets looked a bit iffy for sealing without ringing the head and block. Vince at Stealth racing recomended stacked gaskets as well.
Volvo did the same thing with the 340/440? engine when they stopped selling 5 star leaded petrol - dealer fix was to stack two gaskets to reduce the compression.
Sorted now. Swapped the copper gasket for a G60 one and it now idles a lot better and despite 30 mins sat on the drive at idle the oil temp didnt get higher than 94 deg with a peak water temp of 105 deg. So about right for a newly rebuilt engine thats not run in yet. Just need to get the charger rebuilt now..
Darren will be getting it to rebuild it, after I have sent the outlet half of the casing over to BBM so they can do their stage IV CNC milling to it.
