Picking up a Polo 17.4mm master cylinder from GSF this morning. I'll report back when I've got it, and confirm the part number. 35 with Club Discount.
A quick update. I ordered one of these from T J Motorsport which should be a good option. It uses a standard pedal with a bulkhead bias box. Girling cylinders etc. now I just need to order the hose and ends ready for the weekend after Easter for the fitment. Does anyone know the length of braided hose I will need for a complete replacement? Also does anyone know the caliper fitments I will need for VR6 caliper a as fitted to the late mk3. Thanks!
I've been busy with other stuff so it's not fitted. Should get to that next week. In the meantime will get the part number for you. The centre part is slightly bigger than the hole in the bulkhead, so that needs a tickle with the die grinder to make it fit. The bolt spacing is the same or very close though. Sounds like you've gone a different route, but maybe other folk will benefit. The Polo M/C is quite long, although I reckon I've got plenty of room for it with the X-Flow There are probably better solutions out there if you were running a counterflow 8v head with Carbs, for example.
Glad to hear it won't be a huge job for you Mike. Yes I've gone the dual master cylinder route with a balance bar etc. I am hoping it will be the best balance (no pun intended) of function and modification. I wanted the race pedal feel with separate brake systems for safety etc, so it was always likely to be a dual mc system. However, I didn't want to be closed minded and wanted your collective considered opinions. I will report back as this progresses.
Yep.... if we report back then that gives folk more choice. There's more than one way to solve the problem for sure.
GSF Part Number Could do with a slightly shorter one - it'll be a bit close to the back of the block.
So, a quick update from me. The bias box and pedal are fitted. The ABS and servo and all old brake lines are out. The brakes are bled through (both M/Cs), but as yet the pedal is not quite right. If I really shove it, I can get it to touch the floor. Also, the cable adjuster kept binding despite routing the cable in the widest possible arc. Eventually the braid on the cable just frayed to the point where it is no longer usable. The one supplied was 1m, so I've asked them to send me 1.5m, which I am still waiting for a week later. Also the drop pipes kinked immediately despite again trying to route them with a decent radius curve. The also means the reservoirs are not yet properly fitted, and are wedged under the scuttle tray for now. It was OK to drive, but the brakes are nowhere close to as good - yet. So, still some work to be done. As the next trackday at Bedford at the end of April is now looming, and my kids are crying out for some attention from daddy, I needed to send the car to some people who know what they're doing. It is now with a local race prep firm (Ratech) to be sorted, they are going to call me in the next few days with a cost for doing the job. They looked at it yesterday and didn't seem phased - so that's good. I will list specs and parts in a later post once the job is complete, in case it is useful for someone. Cheers all
Sorry for the wait chaps, I've been out of circulation. But back now. Mickey, The cylinders are Wilwoods, .7 rear and .625 front. I don't know the pedal ratio. But it feels really good now. So, here is my update following Bedford yesterday. First of all, the brakes a really much, much better. But the rears are locking first, so I'll need to adjust the push rods - out the box comes again the bias adjuster came with a short cable, so I'm having a longer one made up. It he meantime I had some adjustment but the balance bar fouls the bias box casing - so the rods must need a decent tweak. I am disappointed it didn't come set-up after paying a 50 premium for a model specific box. Never mind, lesson learned - assume nothing!! I'll put a full write-up when I have got it spot on - more tweaking before that though. Cheers
