wtf ^^^^^ anyway, back on topic I found this design: So I took the design to my local fencing, decking and timber specialist. He suggested if I get a Euro Pallet 1200 x 800mm, then he can supply the uprights and side panels for ~18 The one pictured goes for 270!!! Or should I go for something more like: That looks nicer, but not sure if it will dry the wood out as well as the first one? The maximum log length for my stove is 400mm, so I could make one of the narrower designs but make it longer. Although I don't have a high wall in my garden. It would however also serve as fence and give us a bit more privacy, either that or get some feather edge boards. Any suggestions for the left hand side of my garden/yard without taking up too much space? It must: a) store logs b) look half decent c) possibly serve as a fence too
I think that sounds good, anyone know what type of roofing or weather sheet at the back I would need? It would need to allow the air to circulate but keep damp out
Where are you getting your logs from? Those logs look awful neat, and if you're splitting them yourself looks like hard work. For our open fire we had about 1.5ton of Pre-seasoned logs delivered for about 100, and we just piled them out the back as neat as we could. That was about 2 years ago and we've still got a small pile left.
My mate is a tree surgeon so can get hold of plenty of wood. I'd like to split them myself, I enjoy physical labour.
Fair do's, we got ours through a tree surgeon friend of my mums. Used to love chopping the wood with me axe, but havent had a fire for months.
An Arborist has qualifications, a tree surgeon doesn't - not that that matters for your purposes! BTW Those log stores are still tiny. If the logs were already cut to length, I could split enough to fill that in 45 minutes, maybe an hour if it's knotty stuff. 15 minutes more if you have to cut them to length and have a decent saw. Like I said in my PM, a good splitting axe like the Fiskars super splitter is WELL worth the 50 as opposed to a 20 log maul - it just eats logs. Wrap a few of them in a bungee cord, or put them in an old tyre - so you don't have to pick up the halves and quarters that have flown everywhere afterwards and you can split a load at once instead of fetching a new log each time you split one. If they're not cut to length, given your 400mm maximum log length, get a secondhand Stihl or Husky chainsaw with an 18" bar on it - that way you can use the bar to mark where you need to cut and get it all neat looking and the same length. Just put the dogs (spikes at the powerhead end) against the end of the log, and touch the chain to the log lengthwise - between the length of the dogs and the length lost due to the tip of the bar curving up, you'll be pretty much bang on 16". You don't need to back the shelter with anything - the idea is that the wind blowing THROUGH the pile dries the logs, as well as any sun you get. Most people who cut and season their own just cover the top with a tarp over winter, and leave it off during the summer - no need to run in and out any time it rains. But you have a roof on yours, so no problems. TBH if it were me I'd just cut it and stack it along the wall, leaving 6" or so behind it - I like the look of stacked wood, and you'll be able to store far more than those log stores...
As I am burning quite amount of poor quality wood like pallets etc. I need a decent shed/store to stack it all relatively neat. I would love to stack logs just against the wall but not really a good thing with her indoors. Stacked pallets don't look too great haha Anyway, after a weekend of fencing: I am now able to build a log store where I have marked it in red. I have seen various designs on the net but I quite like this one: from here: http://edistone.com/index.html Myself and TSC are unsure why the roof slopes upwards towards the back on all log stores I have found? Anyone shed any light on this? Also, if BrianG is around or anyone else could they give me some advice on constructing it? Could I use the same feather edged fencing to clad it but obviously leave air gaps? If I get some approx. measurements could someone give me a rough design?
I think I know why it slopes upwards towards the rear... So that is flush against wall etc. Otherise it would look a bit odd. Found this if it helps: It would need to hold a maximum of 40cm logs so I'm guessing the depth of the carcase would be 40cm?? Then cladding and roof overhang extra. The height I would like to be 208cm at the rear so it would fit just below the felt roof of the shed. If a 30deg roof is required then I suppose I would need to do some trig to get height of front?
those wood stores look neat! all i had in devon was one made out of old fence panels. out here the wood's just stacked up against the wall with some corrugated iron sheet on top. none too pretty though. think like a raindrop when you're building it, to keep it as dry as possible. slatted walls are just enough for a gentle passage of air through the pile, but if it's got an open front it should be fine, as the airflow will be along the length of the logs front to back. those roofs have to slope somewhere, they look better like that than sloping sideways if they're up against a level fence i suppose.
Aye but why the 30 degrees? Surely 10 would still shed water and keep your wood dry. I just stack mine, and leave it - it works fine. Oh, and you were talking about sharpening earlier on - get a NEW chain from Martin, then once it gets blunt you can compare your sharpening efforts to a factory sharp chain. It takes a bit of practice, a bit of an art to get it perfect. Ask for Stihl RSC chain, it cuts fastest and covers you in sawdust. Just don't hit a nail, or go cutting stumps, or ever let the chain touch the ground - that'll blunt your chain in no time.
I think it only slopes that much on them for aesthetics, But if your building your own you can make it up.
Mine just get stacked out in the rain, snow, whatever - it still dries. Pallets or ply are dry enough already, thay just burn up in a flash - and ply is bad for creosoting your flue. Have a "stuffed full of newspaper" fire once a week to burn it off. Now go and find a forest, or get 12' logs delivered, cut and split them, then stack them...
I reckon a decent slope will encourage a convective airflow, if there's a bit of sun warmth on the roof. Could also be to minimise snow accumulation. If it sloped the other way it would shed water onto the fence or wall that it's up against in heavy rain, which might be undesirable. Worse still if it was snowfall. Ours just gets stacked neatly a few inches away from the wall, bit of heavy roofing felt across the top, simples.
