As a comment, I used to own a eurospec forged crank that I sold before ever using. The reason I sold it was because I didn't know where it came from. Yes, I sourced it in the US from someone I trust so yes it is "genuine eurospec", however, who makes these cranks for eurospec, and where do they come from? The answer I came to was "I don't know". The chances are it will be fine and see good and long service to the person who I sold it to, however, because the total cost of my engine build was fairly significant (to me at least) I didn't want to run the risk of any crank issues so I sourced a crank that I know and trust (that will now probably fail because I have written this!!)
bearing shell wear? none use of splutter bearing, incorrect shell gapping/grind tolerances, lack of oil pressure? wear is on the down stroke of the rod
Certainly no clear evidence shown that this crank failed because of inappropriate harmonics which will lead to bending. Perhaps these cranks, if they do bend after prolonged usage bend due to the use of incorrect dampers.
"certainly" Not sure what more clear evidence you would like considering we have alot more experience with these motors than you/everyone posting in this forum. Bearing failed due to crank being bent out of spec. It has nothing to do with internal harmonics or how the bottom end is built. It had to do with the material the crank is "forged" from. It is no secret Eurospec cranks are made in China and it is also no secret the 4340 forged cranks in various other platforms (mitsubishi , nissan , toyota) are notorious for bending out of wack in 1.5+bar applications. The first to go is usually the connecting rod bearings closest to the flywheel , after the main bearings start going and then you end up with a lost investment. Every single motor we built using a Eurospec crank resulted in a rebuild using an OEM crankshaft from VW. I want all of you in here to THINK for a single minute before you decide to reply again. What do I have to gain by posting this information? Last I checked the only person posting based on EXPERIENCE is us.....No one else. This thread is exhausting. Good luck with your build.
Indeed "certainly" your picture shows a damaged crankshaft not a bent one. Ask yourself how do crankshafts bend. Then start asking questions if cancelling harmonics or the natural frequency of the crankshaft and it's metallurgy, in relation to combustion pressure are in question. You may need the help of an independant materials scientist to validate. Some great manufactored products come from China so again this, per se, cannot be blamed without evidence as part of the cause. Manifold boost pressure means little in this discussion as it is combustion pressure responsible to cause first and second order crankshaft harmonics if your valve timing does not allow sufficient air to be trapped in the first place. Your conrod bearings will fail due to a lack of maintained oil flim from reduced oil pressure. If this occurs anywhere on a crankshaft journal then it is inevitable that the rest of bearing surfaces will be compromised leading to failure. From your picture the and experienced reader could quickly conclude, what caused the crank journal bearing failure could be as a result of many many undesirables and not specifically your opinion. I think all the time actually, though I may not always have the time to respond. Your experience is appreciated as always and it adds another angle from a multi-user to this particular brand of crankshaft. However your picture does not demonstrate a bent 06* crankshaft. Do not be afraid to post data to support you claims. We love sound engineering data/facts here at CGTI.
This link may be of use. He ran fairly big power and from what I gather 100% reliability http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/439664.aspx He used the 2.0tfsi crank too, so this should be a similar project.
Cheers for that i will look later Jordy with 9sec mk1 rocco also uses fsi crank so i know how good they are, he does use IE uprated crank pulley Fluid Damper one which i will also use as i think second and third order harmonics have alot more damaging effect on cranks then any boost you wish to run, also pointed out by Eddie Jordy has managed to kill FSI crank tho, he is currently on his second one, looks very much like Eurospec one in picture posted by Issam Cause for his crank failing were certantly not due to bad crank design and manufacture so it makes me think
here's a fave picture.. from the same LCR which I mentioned earlier.. Re Harmonics... and lack of damper... nasty potential consequence followed. forged OE crank, stock stroke.. BUT made horrible mystake (imho) of using a billet "Neuspeed power crank pulley" eak!
I cant believe people go for billet crank pulleys, even more so i cant believe some well known tuning companys recomend them and fit them to higly tuned engines!
I had so far 8 eurospecsport cranks failed on engines i worked on from a spun rod bearing to 5 broken ones. 16V and 20V normally aspirated engines.
Hi, I am a bit of a simple person! 'big hammer hit hard' caveman style! so am a little lost with the harmonics you are talking about? its prob a stupid question but how would a pulley cause a crank to break?
you make no mention of crank preparation for the timing belt gear. it is one of the weakest areas, get it dowelled and use a decent damped pulley if you plan high revs for long duration.
Oops just noticed i'v put on list Eurospec valve train I ment to say Supertech, i do want single groove as i want to feel safe reving up to 8.5k if need arises As for crank pulley, yes you are correct i have got I.E. strengthning kit on my list of parts that is a must i think with uprated valve springs