Car wont start after 2l conversion

Discussion in '8-valve' started by mk1jt, Mar 17, 2009.

  1. mk1jt New Member

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    just finished putting together my golf, now it wont start I have fuel and a good spark but she will not fire,I'm not sure whether or not the 3 vacuum pipes are located properly so some help on this would be great, also what positions are 1,2,3,4 on the dizzy cap.
    Car turns over fine but theres a smell of petrol and blow back through the air filter any advice greatly appreciated , or if anyone lives near swansea and has a bit of spare time come and have a look Ill provide the beer lol
    Whats the microswith on the throttle body for ?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2009
  2. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    sounds like plug leads may be on the wrong way around, which engine and distributer are yuo using? have you got a haynes?

    there are two switches, on the top is wide open throttle and the switch underneath is closed throttle.
     
  3. mk1jt New Member

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    I'm using a abk block with the k.jet dizzy with vac advance, fitted with adapter ring, I don't have the haynes Manuel. my T.B only has 1 switch in the closed position I have spare T.B and that has no switches at all . I think the positions of the HT leads from top right as you look at them from the front of the car going clockwise are 1'3'4'2
     
  4. mk1jt New Member

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    help , i really need this started today PLEASE!!!
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1 3 4 2 clockwise is the firing order, #1 being closest to timing belt end. as for the dizzy cap positions, it depends where the rotor arm is pointing when its at TDC!

    Pop the cap off, line up the cam and crank TDC marks (use the punch mark on the flywheel as viewed thru the gearbox casing hole if possible, NOT the big diamond)

    Then look at the rotor arm. you want it pointing at the notch mark on the outside of the dizzy housing, jiggleit about till its lined up. then make a note of where its pointing, refit the cap and put lead #1 there.
     
  6. mk1jt New Member

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    OK, punch mark is at the top as viewed through the gearbox,dizzy lines up with the mark on the housing all leads are in the correct place and cam pulley punch mark lines up level front of the head.
    still not firing and my battery is now going flat[:^(]
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok next step is to check for air leaks and make sure all the plugs are sparking. worth whipping the plugs out to check they arnt all fowled up too, had same problem on a polo and after ginvin the sparkies a brush up it fired up lovely :)
     
  8. mk1jt New Member

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    i cleaned all the plugs before they went in, checked them since and they all spark, I'll have a look at all the pipework now and see if i can find anything, does the dizzy vaccum pipe connect to the back of T'B
     
  9. mk1jt New Member

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    Ok looks like i was 1 tooth out on the timing, adjusted that so fingers crossed, try again
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    might be worth whipping off the cam cover and checking the position of the cams, #'1 cams should be pointing up and away from each other when at TDC, like so -> |\ /|
     
  11. mk1jt New Member

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    OK seems my fuel pumps are not energizing when i turn the ignition on and theres no fuel coming from the top of the metering head when I disconnect the injector pipe and turn the engine over the fuse is OK
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    hmm perhaps a relay fault, try takin the realy out and jumping the 2 chunky terminals to get the pump going
     
  13. mk1jt New Member

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    relay was dodgy got the pumps working,still wont start
    there seems to be quite a bit of back pressure going to the air box not allow the metering head to open and let fuel through, opened the metering Head by hand now I have fuel to the injectors but no sign of firing at all
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    think you need to go over the timing again, specifically look at the cam timing. check the cam itself as i say, its possible to fit the cam pulley on the wrong way round which throws the cam off when you line it up to the punch mark on inside face
     
  15. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    If you lined the intermediate shaft up correctly when you did the cambelt, No1 on the dizzy cap should be at about 11 o'clock, when you look from the front of the car. Depends where the mark on the dizzy is though.

    Which mark did you use on the cam pulley? The one on the front, or sneaky one round the back (next to the head) which is the correct one.

    90% of these "car won't start after engine conversion" threads have a cam timing problem, so make double and then triple sure.
     
  16. mk1jt New Member

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    yes i agree, thats a job for tomorrow now as I'm fed up with it today, thanks for the advice , I will post further work done, hopefully someone will benefit from my mistakes :thumbup:
     
  17. mk1jt New Member

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    I used the punch mark on the outside of the cam pulley, No 1 was positioned at about 1 O'Clock
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    aha, you want to use the one on the inside, this is lined up with the top of the cylinder head, with the rocker cover & gasket removed
     
  19. mk1jt New Member

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    Cheers I'll be on it in the morning
     
  20. mk1jt New Member

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    OK ,car is now minus cam belt and rocker cover, the punch mark is lined up through the gear box ,the mark on the inside of the cam pulley is in line with the front and level with the head , No 1 cam lobes are pointing exhaust rear inlet down , pointy end, is this right[:s]
     

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