When I start engine in the morning, my car switch off. After a few minutes when the water in the carburetor is a bit warmer, car work OK. Can you help me to solve my problem? My car is jetta II 1.6 1991year 55kw PN number of engine On my car I had a carburetor 2EE but broke down so I put the golf II carburetor 1.3, 2e3. Thanks for help
Try this: before you turn the key to start the engine, push the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, and then release it. The 2e3 has a semi-automatic choke system that requires the above action to set it.
Have you got the electrical connections of the 2e3 wired up to anything? I think there should be a idle-mixture cut-off solenoid on it, which will need 12V supplied when the ignition is on. There may also be a Thermotime Valve, which again needs a 12V supply. I think these two may be wired in parallel, to a single connector. There will also be a connector near the water-housing part of the choke mechanism, for an electrical heater inside it, which should get 12V when the coolant is below about 35C, controlled by a thermoswitch, which may not be present on a PN engine. Will be OK to have it wired up to a 12V which is on all the time the ignition is on (only about 1 Amp current). Edit: Look in the Carburettor FAQ section for Pulldown unit testing, and check that yours works. Also try using the 'search' function with keyword 2e3, there are a few threads with pictures of the choke mechanisms and maybe some other things that may be useful to you. Was the 2e3 that you have fitted known to have been working reliably on cold-starts in the vehicle it came from?
This carburetor 2e3 is from a foreign car in Germany, I bought it in the trash (market for car) for 50 euros. Check out for what you told me (about voltage) and I will to tell.
OK that one doesn't seem to have the idle-fuel cutoff solenoid, if those wires are the only ones you have. Do you have the white connector in the lower middle of that picture plugged into something that has 12V when ignition is on? Do you have a brown (0V) wire going from carburettor to one of the bolts on the camcover? I don't know if your problem is directly related to this wiring, but it should help the cold-start if you do have power to the two items in the picture.
yes I have 12V on white conector when ignition is on. Brown (0V) wire is conected by one bolts on the camcover. Tomorow I will tes pulldown unit like in Carburettor FAQ. Thenks for help.
Now I test voltage and conection. also has a wire to the idle-fuel cutoff solenoid. On all of wire voltage is 12V. when ignation is on I hear the sound "cak". is thath OK.
That all sounds OK, the noise is probably the solenoid-valve opening, as it should. This thread: link contains just about everything I have discovered about the 2e3 carb. For your PN engine, I think I'd expect the pulldown adjustments to be best when similar to a 1.6 EZ engine, 2.8mm for the first stage, 5.6mm for the second stage. This can only be approximate though, as the carb is really jetted/set-up for a 1.3. As long as the pulldown unit is doing something to open the choke flap, that probably isn't your main problem. I think most likely the stepped-cam mechanism (shown in the linked thread) - which keeps the revs higher while the engine is cold - is sticking in the 'warmed up' orientation. Give that area a spray with some light oil or spray-grease. If you're lucky this may fix it.
The problem is that of a white vacuum (Throttle valve actuator ) unit that is responsible for idle. A few months ago I serviced the carburetor, put a new Throttle valve actuator but the revs started to vary from 50 - 3500 rpm. No way can handle speed. Parts for the carburetor are all Falco and do not last at all. So I decided on this carburetor 2e3. Gone to waste and the golf alien removed and edited by me. But now with this carburetor choke reluctant.
Today I froze outside, I took off the carburetor and tested. TTV is working well, puldovn unit when I do the first test creates a vacuum to hold, but not to push the lid. When I perform a second test move the lid and creates a vacuum and hold. I'm a little and cleaned the carburetor. When you do the first test I see that it moves the plastic but does not move enough to move the mechanism of the lid, only when I do a second test move the cover. what could be the problem?
Try adjusting the black round disc with hexagon socket in it on the pulldown to get the first stage to move the choke flap. If that works, then adjust the hex-head screw at the other end to get the second opening gap correct (when the top port is blocked). I suspect that the part under the letter "B" in the picture below has bent, as it has in the picture. If there isn't enough adjustment on the round black thing, try to bend the metal of the part in the pic below "B" back to a 90 angle. If the white plastic supporting it has cracked, be gentle/careful when trying to correct the bend in the metal.
this is my carburttor. but is now much cleaner, today I cleaned all day. Think this is indicated in red and arrows. On the other hand I have almost all took place screw in order to have a higher stroke.
Yes, the larger red ring and arrow at the front is the adjustment to get the first stage movement (approx 2.8mm) correct (when sucking on the lower port with upper port open). The smaller red ring and arrow is the adjustment for the second stage (when the top port is blocked). When fitted to your car, I guess the carb is the other way round, with the black part of the pulldown nearest the rear of the car? As I said, if there is not enough adjustment, the problem may be the linkages on the part in my previous post. I still think that this may not be the main problem. The choke flap position is important to keep the air/fuel mixture good when everything is cold, but the real thing that keeps the engine going when cold is more air/fuel mixture getting into the engine, controlled by the stepped cam which holds the primary throttle at a larger minimum angle while cold: (blue arrow) If this part is not able to turn freely, and reset back to the 'maximum idle speed' position when the autochoke is set with the accelerator pedal, the engine will struggle.
Yes, my carburetor is rotated 180 degrees, the pulldown unit behind. The screw in the picture above next to the blue arrows, where the step should be. To me there are 3 or 4 if I remember correctly. Now the screw with me has no function because it is unscrewed and the spring with the stairs is free. In which the position should be the cover when to choke, as in the first test, or as in the second?
The pin that the pink arrow is pointing at in the photo of post #18 should be resting on one of the steps of that cam. It isn't in the picture because I'm holding the throttle open with my hand so that the cam is visible. As the autochoke warms up, the cam rotates and the pin rests on lower steps bringing the idle speed down towards normal. If it is screwed out all the way so it isn't touching anything, then the idle speed when cold will not be increased as it should. Screw it back in so that it is touching the top step of the cam when the engine is completely cold (and the autochoke has been set with the accelerator pedal), and see what happens. Edit: actually it needs to be holding the throttle open a little as well as touching the top step, so screw it in until it touches, and then maybe another turn or two, or three. This question: "In which the position should be the cover when to choke, as in the first test, or as in the second?" I don't understand. Can you describe what you mean in a different way?
