Carburettor Specialist London

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by jm310, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. jm310 New Member

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    Yep, replaced that when I did the leads.

    Noticed a few bits of what looks like rust in it.

    Haven't checked the distributor.
     
  2. WillG

    WillG Forum Member

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    How long has the car been off the road? Did it run before you stripped it down?
     
  3. jm310 New Member

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    Hi Will,

    Problems started about a month ago when I was driving. It kept stalling as soon as I took my foot off the accelerator. I managed to limp it home by keeping the revs up.

    Since then I have completely stripped down the carb and replaced all the parts in the refurb kit. I have now also cleaned all the distributor contacts.

    However know that I have put it back together whenever I accelerate it stutters (see video in post 16).

    I disconnected the petrol hose that comes from the vapour separator and turned the engine over. To me it looks as if there is enough petrol getting through.

    Can anyone confirm this? See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OviQHugFqng

    Any ideas guys? I'm stumped.
     
  4. maxmo

    maxmo Forum Member

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    Yes, that is more than enough petrol, the pump by design 'pulses' the petrol into the separator, excess then returns to the fuel tank via the return fuel line.
    I notice on the video you don't run the standard airbox. I said it earlier in the thread, I think your problem may be a vacuum leak. Any disconnected vacuum hoses from your new air filter arrangement need to be sealed properly. A bolt down the end of the pipe usually suffices. See this thread part way down for weber. Without the stock airbox you should only have the dizzy to brake servo pipe vacuum connection. Everything else needs to be sealed.
     
  5. jm310 New Member

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    Thanks Maximo,

    I will check that tonight.

    Only thing is it has been running fine with a non standard box for years and I am almost certain I set the pipes up in the same way.

    It is however possible I have accidently disconnected or reconnected them in the wrong way.
     
  6. jm310 New Member

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    I plugged the pipes just as you described but no joy.

    I tried different combinations of plugged and unplugged but had the same issue. As if the engine is suffocating.

    However I did notice that no petrol was coming out of the nozzle(?) labeled B in the picture when I pumped the accelerator.

    http://postimg.org/image/6jy2004kv/

    A spurt comes out A each time but nothing from B. Should there be petrol going onto the venturi of this chamber when the accelerator is pressed as well?

    Again thanks so much for the help.
     
  7. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I don't think so. Though I don't know a lot about the Weber, I wouldn't expect the accelerator pump system to have more than one outlet. That 'B' is going to be a full-load enrichment outlet, that only starts operating when you are at full chat with wide open throttle. (You won't be able to simulate this condition with your head under the bonnet, so don't expect to see anything come out of there.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  8. jm310 New Member

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    I'm really running out of ideas.

    Anyone got any other suggestions. It idles fine but as soon as you accelerate it sounds as if its suffocating.

    Thanks,
     
  9. EZ does it Forum Member

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    So, when you go to WOT it stumbles, if you hold it in the WOT position does it come back to life after a second or two?
     
  10. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I've just remembered something that happened to someone else on here a while back. Think it may have been a Pierburg carb but the same thing may be worth checking.
    The guy peed around forever trying to find what was wrong after a carb refurb, and eventually discovered that the new gasket he'd been sold had one hole 'missing'. So one fuel/emulsion/air channel that should have been connected between top and bottom half of the carb was blocked by a mis-punched bit of gasket.
    Got any photos from the refurb process?
     
  11. jm310 New Member

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    EZdoes it, yes that is correct if I accelerate very slowly it seems to be OK up to fairly high revs. However if I do it suddenly it chokes.

    EZ Pete, I'll take it apart again and check that to see if that is the case. Forth time lucky. [:s]

    I hardly have any photos. Just one I took below before I cleaned the Carb.

    I also just want to check I have the Jets in the right order.

    http://postimg.org/image/h1ii4fdtv/

    From left to right this is what I could see written on the four jets.

    1. 55
    2. 155 F-30 120
    3. 155 F-25 125
    4. Nothing written or forgot to write it down

    Might try replacing all the jets. Can anyone put a link for the jets I need and where to get them.

    It's a 1.6 1991 Driver.

    Thank you,
     
  12. EZ does it Forum Member

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    When you refurbed the carb did you make any adjustment to the throttle stop position?

    Twin stage carbs can be very sensitive to incorrect stop position on the secondary stage. It shouldn't be completely closed ever, otherwise you'll get a lean misfire when the second choke opens as the fuel takes a second to get moving and achieve the right mixture. I know the secondary is adjustable on the DMTL so this is worth considering.
     
  13. jm310 New Member

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    Thanks EZ does,

    I may have adjusted it without realising.

    Is there a guide anywhere on how to adjust it? Or an image of where it is located?

    Cheers,
     
  14. WillG

    WillG Forum Member

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    Hmm that sounds like the 2 main jets are the wrong way around, but I wouldn't have thought that would create the problems you describe.
     
  15. EZ does it Forum Member

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    This is the screw, unfortunately I don't have the book figure for what this should be set to, some stuff I was reading about Holley carbs suggested that it should be the same gap as the primary. You can always note the position it is in now and have a play.

    If it's not already, I'd suggest setting the secondary the same as the primary, ignore the high idle it may well produce and just go for a drive, if it cures the issue then you can fine tune it to get the right idle too.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. EZ does it Forum Member

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    Actually, the correct resting position of the throttles is stamped on the plates.
     
  17. jm310 New Member

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    OK, that is definitely something I will check.

    I can see 75 written on one of the butterflies in the image but what does that mean.

    I don't understand how I can measure that angle and adjust it to the correct position?
     
  18. EZ does it Forum Member

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    And this is how to work out the angle of the plate from measurements

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  19. EZ does it Forum Member

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    The angle means the position of the plate, relative to fully open, while in its resting position.

    So if the angle was 90 then it would be entirely closed and no air would flow, if the angle was 0 then it would be entirely open (full acceleration)

    The angle 75 means it's slightly open, and some air can flow, this will provide enough mixture to let the engine idle.


    You need to measure the distance from the base of the carb to the edges of the throttle plate at their highest and lowest positions (a and b), and the diameter of the plate/carb opening (c):

    [​IMG]
     
    jm310 likes this.
  20. jm310 New Member

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    Wow, very detailed!

    Thank you so much EZ Does. I will try adjusting this and see if it improves anything.

    Fingers crossed.
     

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