May need to change head gasket on an PB have done this on ohv cars before but not on a Golf so Ive been searching on here for hints & tips. Ive collected together tips (especially from MikeHorsb, ambrose89, mush, rubjonny, C8LNJ, Stephcassar & neo). Hopefully this might be useful for other head virgins. Tools you will definitely need : Head bolts X 10 (12mm 12point spline - XZN) 18" socket extension, preferably a wobble' one rather than a universal joint (for manifold/downpipe bolts). Decent Torque wrench Workshop manual (e.g. Haynes) Tools you might need: 6-16 mm nut splitter valve spring compressor to suit deep seated valves (if planning any head work) At least 2 GOOD QUALITY 10x1.5mm taps for manifold studs (there are three in a full set to start the thread, expand it and finish it). New parts you will definitely need : Head gasket set (should have Rocker cover gasket, inc D shaped bung, Head gasket, Inlet manifold gasket, Exhaust manifold gasket, valve stem seals) Elring, Reinz, or VW HG are recommended as is the VW rocker gasket and studs Head Bolts X 10 stretch bolts so shouldnt be re-used - VW are recommended Manifold to downpipe gasket (probably not in HG set) Copper nuts for head/exhaust manifold studs nuts for exhaust manifold/downpipe studs Oil / filter x2 (extra change after its done a few miles) , Anti-Freeze New parts you will probably need : Injector O ring set inlet manifold bolts exhaust Manifold studs 13 mm Downpipe studs.17mm (almost certainly) Cambelt & tensioner (unless recent) Camshaft seal O rings for plastic coolant housings Somebody on here could probably provide part nos. WORK PLACE You will need to get under front of car to dis-connect exhaust so will somewhere level and flat also good idea to drain coolant somewhere else then push car to workshop (otherwise you work in puddle of split coolant). You need to drain the radiator AND block. Just pulling the bottom rad hose off isn't enough, you'll also need to disconnect the bypass hose (pipe from water pump to head outlet) to let the coolant out of the block. There seem to be a number of options for splitting head from exhaust. Removing the manifold insitu is the hardest (poor access) and not recommended . Splitting the manifold from the downpipe (6 studs and nuts ) is recommended but these nuts are notorious for seizing/shearing (unless its been apart recently). You can get 5 from below , unbolting the drive shaft heat shield helps with access. You'll need a long extension (18) ideally a wobble bar one and a long breaker bar .. Soak them all in penetrating oil overnight (plus gas considered better than WD40). Nip tighter to break rust before trying to undo. 6 sided socket rather than socket that grips the corners are best. Expect at least one of the studs to snap, and some of the others to be unusable afterwards. Heat might be needed. Other than exhaust nobody has mentioned any real problems with removing head although Haynes talks about removing camshaft before removing head but not sure if this is necessary if youre simply changing the head gasket and not planning any head work. Any views ? Must camshaft come out before removing head? Some say it is possible to take the head off complete with manifolds/downpipe (8v only not 16v). Just disconnect the downpipe from the next pipe along, lift the complete head/exhaust assembly and rotate it 180 and draw it out straight up (heavy and awkward needs 2 people). Make sure to protect bores, waterways, oilways before cleaning up block face dont want bits of HG getting where it can cause damage. Getting exhaust manifold off head is much easier on bench but nuts/stud still likely to be rusted/seized lower one between cylinder 3 & 4 likely to be the worst. Original nut is copper so should be able to hammer smaller socket on yours might not be copper. Might need heat for this or to get damaged exhaust manifold studs out of the head but be very careful. I suppose reasonable ones could be cleaned up with a die (the size hasnt been mentioned). If you can't get the 6 studs out of the manifold normally (e.g. if they snap inside the manifold), with patience and a bench drill you can drill them out (start with a 3mm drill and work up the way...drill slowly and use cutting spray). The last drill should be 8.5 mm and then you'll need at least 2 GOOD QUALITY 10x1.5mm taps . A bench drill is better a few people have written off manifolds trying to hand drill. Use cutting spray/paste for the thread taps cast iron is hard! WHEN YOU HAVE THE HEAD OUT WHY DONT YOU Improve it following Mr Hillclimbers post http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146976 Or refurnish your tappets following The SecondComings post http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76499 or re-grind your valves following the post started by Chris Eyre http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37905 PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN Make sure head flat before refitting a light skim might be needed. Different views on how far you need to strip the head before having this done (if you leave valves in the machine shop may just remove these and charge you accordingly although some say their machine shop skims without removing valves? !). Make sure you clean up the head and block thoroughly before you put it all back. Not sure what best for cleaning dont want to scratch the head with sharp metal tools, Mikehorsrb recommends brake cleaner as a final degreasant, once it's already clean. Lots of debate about whether you should lubricate the head bolts but everyone agrees make sure you clean out the hole first, use a decent torque wrench, follow head bolt sequence in Haynes and the torque settings that come with the gasket. Remember that if oil was drained at the start then the pick up will have will have drained (especially if head away for a few days getting skimmed) I suppose turning over by hand a good few times would be a good ideas before starting it up. . Change oil again after 500-1000 miles. Apologies if somebody I havent namechecked sees some of your ideas in here. I cant remember who made all the posts that I have read and blatantly "borrowed". All in a good cause! Will update this after I've done the job Trevor
Hey bud im looking at possibly having to do a gasket change on a 8valver and this has defo beenm helpfull. You completed the job yet???
i choose to undo exhuast at downipe to mid section, and pull downpipe out with head.....much easier to get to the rusty hard to undo PITA bolts then. I then use new bolts and sometimes studs on refitting.
Glad this has helped somebody. Havent done it yet. Am losing a litttle water (erratic maybe half a cup in 300 miles and then none in next 300 miles). Compressions ok. New pump & all hoses/housings quite new - no visible leaks. No misting up or coolant in footwell so dont think its the matrix. Suspect HG but have had it to a local VW specialist for some tests - it's holding pressure ok and no combustion gases in coolant so not sure whats going on. Going to leave it till it gets worse so I can be certain before attacking the head. Trevor PS most local machine shops are happy to leave valves in. Consensus is that no need to remove cam until its on the bench. PPS anyone got door cards for sale? http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156157 or seat foam? http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1431469#post1431469
good guide trev, and thanks for the mention. would recommend a vanity mirror and small torch to see the back of the inlet manifold and where its fixing bolts are and a 5/6mm? allen bit with 6-8in extension bar to undo them maybe lightly clean the block with a green abrasive pad(pot scrubber) probably a good time to change the coolant thermostat aswell maybe some copper slip
