Cleaning out a TDi inlet mani of gunge - * update - EGR blank done *

Yep - IIRC that was the logic.

"Oil bath".... lol!

 

ive cleaned two out before. it took a while, i did the pipes between the turbo and the inlet manifold too.

the manifolds i did were on 130pd engines in an audi a4 at about 140-150k miles. the second car was almost a non runner, hence pulling it to bits.

it turned out the egr was stuck open so was fixed and then blanked. im almost certain the car had less lag afterwards, but that could have been because of the cleaned up manifold

 

do you think i shold be taking the intercooler off and running it through with something ?

its only a 50,000 mile car but no doubt it will be dirty

just need to get some kind of blank made, i dont suppose anyone has a part number for the gasket for the EGR i can get a couple and see if a friend of mine will make me a plate

cheers

 

the EGR is there to improve economy and also reduce emissions. the idea being the air is already hot as its been combusted once so at light throttle bung some back in and you dont have to heat the fresh air as much..brilliant...but the breather for the car leads into the inlet track pre turbo, so when its sucking hard on boost it sucks the oil vapour (which lowers the purity of the air/fuel mix as its un metered air!) and mixes it with any of the soot kicking around from the egr! this is what makes the gunge.

my last diesel was reeally bad, but only on the egr valve, I cleaned it all up when I did the head gasket and it was sooo much faster, I then left the egr in place and vented the oil breather to atmosphere, this way the soot will always be dry and sucked through to the combustion chamber and burnt off,

for geting rid of the egr the best thing is to actually remove it, I think its alard who do the replacement section, or just turn it off using vag-com. job done then.

I will be looking at doing this on my 2.0PD engine over winter as its had a new egr 20k miles ago but i have no idea if any of the inlet was cleaned out at the same time, it was replaced by audi so i guess prob not....

 

I have a problem with low power on my 150bhp Gt Tdi (please see my thread) Could this egr valve be a cause of the problems I have?
How do I check if it works correctly and how do I check if I have one?

 

If you blank off or get rid of the EGR don't you get the CEL warning light on the dash??

 

I've done this on all TDI's apart from the DPF version, as these may have a cat but no lambda probe for feed back to the ECU, if you disconnect the relevant valve via the electrical connector it will register fault

 

I'm considering cleaning the intake and blocking-off the EGR as described but was wondering ...(hopes)...
if the solvent properties of biodiesel would still apply to the burnt gasses that were produced?
if this were the case a few tankfulls (thinned with petrol for the winter - running 4% unleaded at the mo) would start to break down the grime...

bit specific, I know, but anyone's knowledge/experience of this appreciated

maybe it's something for a new thread - I'll think of one tonight...


aside3 from that, is the EGR unit and pipes accesible with the engine in the car? Haynes has very few pix of this

P)

 

All accessible with the engine in the car, but it was a bit of a job to get the rusted nuts undone, and I was leaning into the engine bay with the spanners and a small mirror.

 

Flexi-head ratchet spanners get those nuts off easily!

CEL error - you will only get this on US spec cars and this can be just coded out of the map (this is a mainly UK based forum)

Catch tank to use is the MANN ProVent 200

 

the problem is the soot thats produced from how diesel burns, this mixes with the oil from the inlet track, so no matter if bio still has solvent properties post combustion they will be dry solvents if you see why i mean , and it will still make a soot gum.

also the access depends on the car really and engine.

8v, its all on top of each other so a bit of a pain, and in transverse it all faces the bulk head so even harder,

16v engines are easier on tansverse it faces the front, and longi ones its off to the side with the header tank so loads of room. I took all mie apart, cleaned and rebuilt in 3 hours on my 140bhp A4

 

Chris, this is an interesting read, we've never had any diesels yet and we're getting a pd130 ibiza at the weekend, would it be a worthwhile task making up the blank for this?

It's mainly going to be used for commuting, ~70miles a day on the motorway. So it shouldn't get too choked up i guess.

I think diesel maintenance is something to read up on.

 

how many miles has the beefa got?

 

so long as its booted every so often when hot it shouldnt be a prob. my 05 plate 2.0l had done 95k when I stripped it all down, and the inlet etc were a little gummed but only a fine layer

 

Matt the beeza has 75k on it. it's a 54 reg too.

I thought as much, she'll be doing that sort of driving anyway, so there shouldn't be any problem.

Cheers.

 

wot if the egr is faulty from early on?
would that cause the sh it build up

 

I'm lookong to blank off the EGR valve on my PD130 A3 daily. I've read on another froum to drill a 4mm hole in the blanking plate, anyone know about this?

 

Thanks for the advice people, much appreciated.

It just confirms that this is the best forum!

 

surely a 4mm hole would get gunked up and close in no time?

 

Yeah, I've not seen mention of it. I think there is an acceptance that the car perhaps doesn't start as quickly, or run as well when cold.

Frankly, post fitting the blank, I haven't noticed. It's still a bag of bolts with high MPG.