So I'm going to attempt to a compression test this weekend. I'm reading all sorts on the net on how to do this on my Mk2 16v. Can somebody give me a quick run down on what I need to do? I think I understand how to do the actual compression test but how to disable the ignition and fuel system is where I'm stuck at.
Thank you sir, just what I needed to know! By doing this test or say the leak down test, would I be able to tell 100% if it's either the piston rings or the stem valve seals?
Yeah start with a dry and wet compression test, see how it is. wont tell you the condition of the valve seals, but generally if its down to them you'll see blue smoke in the morning after its been sat overnight and/or on over-run, rings would show as blue smoke on power
Yes as RJ says the dry test will give you the pressure produced by each cylinder, a wet test is used to confirm weather a cylinder with a low pressure is either worn rings or valve seat damaged (not valve guide seals ) the idea is the oil put in the cylinder helps to seal the clearances with worn piston rings i.e pressure increases on the wet test compared to dry test worn rings, wet test pressure same as dry test pressure damaged valve seat / burnt valve.
So I've just done the test and cylinder 1 reporting 175 and the other 3 around 150 mark. Just reading the Bentley manual, it says to do the test with the throttle fully open and I didn't do that. Should I do the test again?
Results with the throttle open 1 - 210 2 - 200 3 - 180 4 - 180 Also did a wet test 1 - 230 2 - 225 3 - 190 4 - 200 Any advice?
So price wise just for parts as I'm looking to do most of the work myself, if I was to do the bottom end as well, I'm looking at new piston rings and the bearing right? Some plp are telling me I should get the crankshaft and flywheel balanced? Do I need to do that?
all depends what you find on the strip down, for example if all the bottom end shells are well within spec still theres no reason to replace,but on the other hand you might find the crank is damaged and needs a regrind, oversize shells, bores heavily scored and need reaming out and new plus size pistons etc. just cant know till you look. balancing is up to you, depends how far you want to go with it. can go all the way have have all the rods weighted, knife edged, etc etc all costs money but if happy with a stock engine dont bother. for serious engine work like this I'd look at get hotgolf aka Martin Emment of gas n gears to sort that for you, can also do the flywheel lightening as well doesnt cost much and makes a nice difference tbh, if it was me I'd forget the KR engine and go straight for a nice running ABF engine. can run it on the KR mkjet if you want, personally I'd get the ecu in there as well. but again, its up to you
