Converting wheel bolts to studs and nuts

would it not be easier to make a screw in locating peg?some audi`s come with one std in the tool kit but are a different thread to the golf

 

Fitted Grayston studs to my Mk 4 GTI some time ago,
and have previously used them on my Mk 3

Had a problem at the weekend when a rear wheel
came off at track day at Croft! But, the studs didn't
snap all four + the locking wheel bolt unwound
cleanly from the hub and vanished into thin air.
Spooky!

The thread in the hub was still AOK to fit standard
wheel bolts to put the wheel back on and I then drove
it home 350 + miles, plus did RWYB at Santa Pod on
Sunday and drove to work on M25/M1 this morning!

My theory is that the replacement hub which was
fitted a couple of months back is of different
metallurgy, construction, thread definition (whatever)
to the original VW hubs on all the other 3 corners, I'm
guessing that the combination of heat and duress
made the studs work their way out..? It would
probably never show up in normal use. The studs
I've fitted in the other hubs are all AOK/tight still,
although I have always recognised that they are not
as satisfactory a conversion as proper pressed-in /
splined studs. And the NSR hub did take a lot more
strain at Croft, where it is predominantly all
right-handers

I'm kicking myself that I didn't do my usual lunchtime
spanner check, but I got preoccupied with
photography and PR etc

Anyway, no harm done, although I now have a
scuffed floorpan, and a slightly bent wing/bumper
from where the recovery truck man fitted his crane
straps

Shows how careful you have to be when making this
kind of conversion, though...

 

I saw the tape on the rear bumper yesterday Neil and wondered what had happened, good to hear it wasn't 'too' serious.

 

Update:

SB get them from Peugeot competitons dept in France

Taper seat nut: 4+VAT each

Studs (last few threads tapered):

65mm - 3+VAT each
79mm - 5.80+VAT each
85mm - 6+VAT each [:^(]

... but that's academic because they're all 12 x 1.25 pitch threads.

The search continues...

 

You can get knock thru studs to do this properly which will have low profile heads and splines to bite into the hubs. Worth checking if these clear ABS rings however. Front drive flange off to fit them, but high tensile jobbies.
M12x1.5 12:9 bolts aint cheap tho.. as I buy a shed load of these, get themplated and use them on brembo brake kits. Strong yea, cheap no.. compared to grayston.

Grayston, loctited in, binned annually, retorqued after their first heat cycle session, *should* be ok. I run these. Need TLC and checking but work.

 

Stepped ones Chris?

 

?

 

Erm..splined ones would have made more sense sorry

 

Used Porsche ones 2 each????

I will make enquiries into similar ones (cheaper possibly) if this is what you are looking for.

 

I believe they were the normal ones - double ended thread, high tensile etc, but 1.25 thread pitch = no use for VAG.

 

Re: used porsche ones, it is tempting to go this route. Somebody mentioned this idea in a race paddock once and I think the length of them may explain why. Having said that, when pushed through from behind the hub I guess the length would be roughly ? 50mm ?

But the quality looks up to scratch. Definitely worth persuing.

 

I'm going to enquire with a couple of local machine shops i know about these.

Is the thread M12 x 1.5??

I'm looking at:

15mm threaded -- 5mm plain (what diameter?) -- 45mm threaded.

65mm overall length


Would that seem right?

Would we want rolled threads?
Edited by: Tubthumped

 

Tub,

Dimensions are roughly right. Some people run a bit longer - I can check mine.

Rob - rolled/not rolled?

 

An update from a bit of research at Inters:

Don't know if any of you spotted a red Mk2 GTI rally car but it had the 'proper' studs - first few threads were missing. I had a good chat with the owner and as always nothing is simple. They were Escort Group 4 studs from Rally Design, which are modified. They are splined, banged in from the front, with a nut on the back. Needs hub flanges off to do it, but it looked 'right' - proper, proper job.

From Rally Design Catalogue:

 

I wouldn't want to run screw in studs on a road car, let alone a race car.


I would agree with going with the Porsche studs, much better idea. They designed to do the job, are the correct tensile strength and you can get them in different lengths. That said, they are M14's and Golf ones are M12. There should be other cars which have studs which you can use... dare I say it? a F%*d sierra rear drum has studs which I think are M12.


MG

 

Rolled threads are far superior to a cut thread.The correct material is crucial and this in turn would reflect in the price and also for eg. high tensile bolts are heat treated after machining to achieve correct hardness etc.
All in all unless mass produced ie.thousands off, it would be costly to get 16 made then treated.I have priced ones which are used by various trucks/cars and the best sort of price is about 5-6 each so if I was wanting to fit them to my car i would buy them and alter to suit my requirments ie. turn start for easier nut application rather than make them from scratch.

 

ebay

For only 38 these must be pretty poor

Alan

 

Grayston products - easily identifiable by silvery appearance and nut design.

We're trying to go better than that.

Just had another update - the Revo R32 running in the VW Cup runs studs which are made by a machine shop: familiar story now, machine shops eh? Again premium prices. Cheers for the info RevoKev

 

Bring this back up from the dead

SteveR did some research and found a fabrication firm in Milton Keynes that make the studs for VW racing UK's vehicles.

My set arrived today, complete with conical seat nuts (19mm hex) Not cheap at 90 for 16 studs and nuts!

Look *very* similar to the Bildon studs with the domed end and starting thread, but with no raised plain section (bangs head) (!) but, if you screw a nut onto the back of the stud, it only goes so far before stopping, so they will still need loctiting for 'belts and braces'






Contact details? if you look closely at the top pic...
Edited by: GVK

 

We like this thread - glad it's back again

Spoke to Steve in advance of this - I'm still researching away, and Escort Group 4 route is currently favoured, though I'd have to convert to 0.5 inch UNF threads and nuts. These are pushed through from the front and bolted onto the back. Major hassle, but it's a bugbear, this whole thing, so I'm going to go this route. Trying to find metric stuff though.

Still scratting around for the proper bits - aim is to get it 'the nuts'