Much appreciated! I will also have to taken speed into account. Air will behave differently under speed, so a track like Zolder with low speed corners or a track like Assen with long straights would require a different setup - as I have no intention of putting bonnets in stock per track I will have to find a working compromise
Re vents, they need a gurney flap in front, ideally, to create a vacuum that helps suck out the hot air, whilst driving. Look at the vents on WRC Cars for example. Not WRC, but gives you the idea https://cbradleymotorsport.co.uk/products/fibreglass-wrc-type-bonnet-vent https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220399172552
Re the brakes, what cylinder size have you, and what size rear cylinder? Are you bleeding the rears by holding them up high?
@Tristan: You're right, I also noticed this recently with other cars which have vents. It is quite logical, if you pushup the air with a bump (gurney flap), you will start "pulling" on the air after the bump, in other words create a vacuum. The same reason the vents should be in the front of the bonnet. I am doubting to buy some pre-made vents, wether you like them or not, it does give a better optical finish in stead of just making (tringular) holes. You have to be less precise while making a hole when the edges are covered by the vent anyway. I am interested in performing the measurement.
Just bled the front calipers as I only overhauled those. Rears are bled on the car normally. Why should I hold them up high? Front cylinders are 54, rear 36 or 38 according to autodoc.
just helps to encourage the air up into the nipples thats all, only required if they're being difficult
Worth trying anyway, i had 2 cars that had been bled and bled and bled and bled... With no air coming out of the rears. With the calipers unbolted and held up high, I got loads more air out.
The only problem I once had was the load divider. It could handle brake pressure, but sucked in air when releasing the pedal. Took a while to find it. Threw it out and mounted a manually adjustable. Problem solved. The issue you described, I've never had it. Didn't do the rears yesterday, pedal is way better than it was But I'll try to keep it in mind
Started to play around with the hoses and connectors, all Goodridge this time. I have the series 210 hose with braided textile outer sheath. The manual says to press (and turn) in the hose completely, but with the outer sheath I can't get it in the swivel. When I unbraid the textile for a cm or 2, the hose (with the braided steel in place) can get into the swivel, with some force and rotation still necessary. Does anybody have experience with this?
It's already done You have to oil the fabric and then it gets in. At least, number 1, 3 and 4 were alright, but for #2 I had to cut of a piece twice...
Well the cooler is in and I just had it run for some minutes. No leakage detected so far. I do see the hoses really expand when I throttle up. See this video: https://youtube.com/shorts/4eSEuKAXjgc Is this normal? The (new) oil pressure meter didn't work, so I found out why: the sensor has no connection to the ground. Probably while all the connections are annodized alu and fittings of the adapter plate and filter are with a gasket. So I soldered a wire tothe housing and connected it to the engine: OK. 5,5 bar @ 3000 rpm and 2 bar when idling. The meter does respond very slowly though, the one in my DAF is direct, this definately isn't.
Expanding under pressure, then the radius of the bend gets larger. They do have braided steel beneath the fabric.
So to get back on the nippels, I am going to bleed the brakes tonight again and wanted to give the tips from here a try. How do you bleed with the calipers off? Some wood between the piston and caliper? Also, I'm getting more and more annoyed by the radiator, just not sitting decently. I'm think of buying a Toledo-type in the winter, as they have the mounting pins on the front side instead of centered. Also, I am going to alter the slotplate / T-bar in the front to be able to tilt the radiator frontwards, away from the airbox. I'll have to find a new place for the oil cooler, but that should be doable. To be honest I haven't tried the water wetter yet, I could also do that for the charity event in November. Even during the test drive last week, coolant reaches 100+°C when staying below 4000 rpm.
you need wood in the caliper if you're going to be using the 2 man pedal pressing technique, if youre using a pressure bleeder no need
