I do get a jerk when i let off the gas when driving, i was suspecting a mount or two. Hadn't considered that timing might affect that. I think i might have a little dizzy experiment tomorrow. Cheers.
if you can get vag-com working on it you can check what ecu temp and throttle angles the ECU is seeing, that'll immediately show you if eityher of these things arn't working right
Yeah that'd give me something to go on jonny. Sadly i don't have the facility and neither do i have any cash at the moment. The cold weather has pretty much shut the farm that i work on down I had a go at eddiet's idea today but the dizzy is pretty well stuck! It was too cold for me to spend too long trying to free it. I have the 4 pin temp sender and the dash gauge seems to be reading right, don't know if the other half of the temp sender could be duff or not but i think i'll get a new one when i can anyway. My other instinct is that the throttle sensor is either duff or calibrated wrongly with the ECU. Also considering the AFM now too. It's been siliconed up in the past and i thought they were sealed for life...As in you can't fiddle with them.
ah, sounds promising. silcone means someones been fiddling! might be worth trying to find another 2e one to try. a mk2 8v digi one will also work but they'll be older plus motre likely to have been fiddled with. plus if you get a 2e one more likely it'll be setup righyt for your motor
Reckon you're right. Might have to put in a request at Stevens VW dismantlers. When i have some cash. I think i've ruled out all the things i could fix for free now Still the car runs fine and still has good power so it isn't disastrous. Cheers
Today i took the plunge and pulled the cover off the AFM. Thinking that the engine must be running rich to cause the over-revving i clocked it anticlockwise to try and fool the ECU into leaning it out. ( I bet this sort of thing is why the cover had been removed before i got the car). This did lower the idle slightly but didn't stop the hanging up for 30 seconds, so i reset it. Then i took the AFM off and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. I also gave the temp sensor a darn good clean with WD. For a couple of minutes, this did seem to cure the problem but then it came back. So, thinking i was barking up a good tree, i went to the scrappy and found a decent looking AFM on a mk3. I gave em 20 and fitted it in their car park. The car didn't like it at all.Stalling, huge flat spots, not good. I went back in and said, this one is worse. They said i needed to reset the ECU. I wasn't convinced, gave them the AFM back and refitted mine. So the question is, was i right that the ECU shouldn't need to be reset or were they right that it should? Anyone know?
Just looked at the last page and it seems to me that the engine may have been messed with before you purchased it. Sounds to me that the base idle speed is too high which is causing the ISCV to struggle to maintain target idle speed. I would suggest disconnecting the ISCV after getting the car to a stable idle speed and adjust rpm mechanically (throttle stop or bypass if fitted) to 850-900rpm. Stop engine and reconnect ISCV. Restart engine and after 5secs or so, blimp throttle and note dashspot. Redajust base idle if required. Job done.
Cheers for that but i don't quite get it. If i disconnect the ISV, the idle goes to pot as you'd expect. How would i get a steady idle with it disconnected? Also, i've already had a little fiddle with the throttle stop screw, to no avail. Could you enlighten me a bit more please?
any more ideas on this one?, I've a 2E Corrado doing exactly the same thing, great mpg, runs very smooth, new lambda, good ignition system, tried 3 ISV's but it just doesn't like dropping from about 1100 rpm down to 900, throttle clean, throttle cable good and free, TPS seems perfect, nothing looks like it's ever been tampered with, going to replace that cam cover grommet on the breather I think, but that's all I can see wrong.
well if anyone's interested I seem to have solved the issue (onmine at least), careful setting up of the ignition advance/distibutor, pretty much as per the digifant tuning guide. It seems like the digifant system on the 2E (no idle screws etc to play with) is very sensitive to the static timing position and unless you clear faults and run to temp, remove water temp sensor (yellow collar, not blue on 2E) and then run at 2000rpm to check timing, then getting a smooth and quick return to 800 ish rpm idle can be a problem. It's not obvious as it's hard to check and you'll get perfect running if it's a little out with no power issues, just a 'hanging-on' high idle that the isv struggles to handle.
