Depressing Discovery on MOT day

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Dub Steppin, Dec 4, 2019.

  1. Dub Steppin New Member

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    Mk2 was booked for MOT yesterday at 6pm. Test centre a 15 mile drive so I was prepping the car for the trip, noticed my pas belt was squealing and the wheel felt a little resistance, so I took the reservoir cap off and lock to locked it a few times - puff of smoke and a snapped pas belt. Still had a few hours til MOT at that point so I located the correct belt from ECP East Edinburgh (I live in Dunfermline) and went and got it rather than have it sent to Dunfermline next day as I wanted to fit it before the test.

    This is where it got a bit weird. Noticed I'm missing the top bolt for the pas pump (the one next to/below the coolant hose to w/pump), the bolt closest to the pulley had a rounded head and couldn't get it to grip with spanners, so took the pulley off to get a hex socket on it which worked at loosening it. I then discover I'm missing most of the left hand bracket so no tensioning capability, and the right hand bracket has a broken lug for the bolt that enables swivelling the pump.

    I got the pump replaced in 2011. I remember the mechanic saying he had a hassle getting it to fit right, now I know why. There were parts missing/broken that he probs was not aware of. It does not pivot like it's supposed to, to enable easy belt replacement/access to other components behind. He has wanged it up and bolted it in and, to be fair to him, it's lasted almost a decade. Looks like the car sitting around for almost 2 years has finished the belt off, it was probably too tight all along.

    Result is I have suspended the MOT until I get this problem resolved fully to correct spec. I will need to replace most if not all bolts due to corrosion, plus left hand and right hand brackets. Noticed the spacer washer for pump pulley is missing too. Is that essential? The brackets I can get easily but regards the bolts - I need to know the length of the top bolt next to w/pump hoses. Presuming all are M8?
     
  2. Tristan Forum Junkie

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    All are m8 standard thread. Maybe he missed the less obvious bolt in the bowels of the aluminium bracket?
     
  3. costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'll ask but I probably know the answer - do you absolutely want to keep the power steering? You could remove the lot and get it MOT'd - they can't fail you for that. If the car is not a regular driver it's an option and it would give you time to get everything sourced/overhauled etc.
    My old 16V had no power steering but granted you got a good arm workout when you were trying to move park it - I was in my 20's then mind you.
     
  4. Dub Steppin New Member

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    Perfect, thought so. Cheers.

    Already got a replacement adjuster bracket and have the eyebolt and tensioner screw soaking in penetrant. I have loads of screws and bolts kicking about so they are all easily replaced. Just need to get a new right hand bracket. I have a new water pump, timing belt kit, alternator, thermostat and housing waiting to go on so decided no better time than now given this PAS issue. Today I removed the pump and alternator. The top allen head bolt for the top bracket (above w/pump, below alternator) is rounded (wasn't me). I cannot get it out. Might have to drill it and try stud extractor. Or maybe I can hammer on a socket and try that... FML. Anybody got any good ideas? Kind of at a standstill cos of that allen bolt, I decided to take the w/pump pulley off and spray the new adjuster bracket silver.

    If I can just get this screw out I can remove the water pump assembly.
     
  5. Dub Steppin New Member

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    Well, a few yr ago the pump failed and I drove it without PAS for a wee while. Apart from the 3 turn rack making it harder than a 5 turn manual rack, it was okay. The problem I have right now is that the belt for the PAS drives the water pump also, so driving it is a no-no until I get the PAS issue fixed. Be great if the belt just drove the PAS, I would have just MOTd it.

    Edit: Suppose I could just get hold of a belt that runs just from crank to water pump. IT's going to be a regular driver as it's my only car. I car share with my parents for day to day at the minute. 2nd Edit: I'm pretty sure that the missing screw will be same length as 3/4 of the others for the pump, so I'll just go with 4 of that length and one longer one for the RH pivot. The pivot bolt is actually still good, the rest are fecked
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019
  6. costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Fair enough - it's something to consider if you just wanted to drive it and keep it on the road and give yourself time to give the system a right good overhaul before sticking it all back in. The Mk2 without PS is a better handling car when you push them on but parking the b@@$ards is a whole different thing.
     
  7. Dub Steppin New Member

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    Aye that's all correct in my opinion. Parking a PAS version with a fecked pump is even harder than the manual ones! I've had 8 mk2s, only two had power steering.
     
  8. Dub Steppin New Member

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    Wee update as I know you guys are just dying to hear about this... Haha. I've gone for a full overhaul of the brackets/fasteners. Lower RH bracket should be here in next couple of days. In meantime I have cleaned up and painted top bracket, top and bottom adjuster/swing brackets, cleaned up and painted the Eyebolt and replaced screw, nut and washers with new stainless. I have since removed my old waterpump assembly and have cleaned up and painted PAS and W/pump pulleys, with new stainless cap screws. I've got or have on order all fasteners (all stainless) for every part of the PAS and w/pump assembly. I've also cleaned up my block seeing as there's space now, and am cleaning off the rust from the hose clamps etc

    Just waiting on my new lower bracket and some fasteners like I said, then I will be ready to rock. It'd be silly not to do the timing belt and clean up crank pulleys while all this is off, so that's next job. I also cleaned up and painted the alternator adjuster bracket and the adj. screw. Which brings me to my next point of confusion - My spare (almost new) alternator is a Lucas and the original is a Bosch. I note the regulators/connections on the back aren't identical/a straight swap. Bit lost... Anyone know what I need to do to fit the Lucas? It looks to me like it has a built in regulator?

    FYI: I removed the 6mm cap screw (allen head) bolt from the top PAS bracket by hammering in a T45 Torx bit and removing with ratchet and bar.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
  9. Dub Steppin New Member

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    My alternator question was a dumb one. To be fair I was looking at it in poor light yesterday. The thing that confused me on the Lucas is the second B+ terminal, presumably so the alternator is a straight fit for mk1s, or early or late mk2s. One B+ terminal is a spade type connection and the other is the 8mm stud. Nowt much wrong with my original one, so I think I'll clean it up and refurb anything that needs it as a wee side project and refit it in the future. I'd prefer to have Bosch in my bay than Lucas.
     
  10. costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I agree DS - Bosch or Hella are the OEM’s for the alternator on Mk2’s
    Not that Lucas is that bad a brand but OEM is OEM - glad you’re overhauling everything as well
     
    Dub Steppin likes this.

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