Yep, set them up all at the same time. And the pinking could be due to carbon build-up in the head or on the piston crowns - try running a litre of water through it to get rid of any crap. Could also be due to wrong spark plugs, try a set one or two stages colder than the ones you have in now......
Cheers mate, i might have to try putting a bit of water through. Is it just a case of connecting a vacuum pipe from the TB to a bottle of water, and let it idle till its all gone?
Aye thats right, you'll need to keep the engine reved though or it'll bog down & cut out. Try to use a short length of pipe if you can
i have two questions for you too has it had a new fuel filter recently? is the pipe between the inlet manifold and fuel pressure regulator FPR in good nick?
Hi Mark Fuel filter is due to be done (was last done about 30k ago). I take it this may cause a few problems with jerking on/off throttle When you say pipe between inlet manifold and FPR, i take it you mean the small braided vacuum hose? If so, then yes i replaced all these during the summer Cheers for the input mate
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2946&page=5 Re: Audi 80 2.0L ABK engine juddering/misfire -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It's something so simple, it took about 30mins total to do. Under the steering wheel is a facia panel which can be removed it's about 4 8mm bolts, (this facia covers the entire area under the steering wheel between the center console and the edge of the dash.) Remove the fascia panel and there is an area in which relays may be present. (Relays are small usually black or grey cube shaped.) On my audi 80 2.0E 93 ABK I could spot two relays, one really long one and a smaller squarer one tucked slightly higher up. I think the long one had a 3 digit number like 203 written on it and the smaller on has 30 written on it. I removed both, I couldn't get the long one apart easily and didn't want to force anything, but the smaller one came apart fairly easy once removed from the car. Inside the relay casing there is a small pcb. (circuit board). On this board in the top corner I spotted a dry joint!! I got out the soldering iron and resoldered the joint. the other joints looked ok so I pretty much left them as they were and clipped the case back onto the relay. Having refitted the relays I've been for a test drive and it runs much better than before!! no hesitation or juddering - it's a refined drive once again. I think anyone who has problems with their ABK audi (or ECU/digifant based system) should check this relay. It can easily be checked in about 15 minutes. Before I did this I have spent money on 2 manuals, a diagnostic lead (which did not show any faults) distributor, fuel filter, ht leads, coil and coil pack! I think the theory is that the dry joint causes a drop in voltage / electrical noise which causes problems with the computer (ECU) Interesting though my diagnostic lead showed no faults. I found a site with some images of relays with dry joints. Should give you a clue as to what to look for. http://www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-hon...main-relay.htm
Does anyone know if it is possible to get a metal cooling water flange/manifold that holds all the hoses and the blue temp sender? Also would a small crack in the plastic one fitted currently that is leaking slightly be responsible for juddering at around 2,500 it clears with a little throttle and then pulls cleanly. or would it make no difference to this?? Also having trouble trying to locate new vacume pipes because i have heard that they can lead to similar problems?? Al
I know gsf sell the plastic sensor housing and I bought a load of vacuum hoses off ebay. 3mm silicone iirc did mine.
