OMG my car is doing my head in!!!! lol About 18 months ago the drivers side electric window broke and I didn't have the to fix it so I took the window off the runners and wedged up the glass up as I wasn't using it and still am not. In the mean time I bought a second hand motor to fit but haven't got round to it yet. Today I turned my car around - and the passenger side which has always been working went totally dead with the window in the down position??? but what is bizarre is now, the drivers one is working, obv the glass isn't attached but I can hear the motor going up and down??? what could be causing them to take turns to work???
the wires in the doors have a habit of braking on pug 306's dont know if this could be the same on a mk3, easy way to test would be open and close the door while holding the button down see if the motors turn on and off.
anyone got a mk3 doorcard removal link? i gave a lift to some scrote from work yesterday, he managed to kill my passenger window window got stuck, motor still going, eventually the cables were starting to poke out from the glass gotta strip the door tonight :S
unscrew the door lock pin and remove the sleeve it sits in, keep it safe. pull off the triangle cover where the wing mirror is. prise off the piece of plastic that covers the door handle and slide off, under neath will be two screws sunk in little tunnels that screw the door card on. Then it basically just pulls off, there are lugs on the door card that push into holes in the door so you need to work your way round pulling directly outwards otherwise they can snap off - I have lost one of mine although it hasn't really mattered.....
yeah I have had this on other cars but doesn't seem to be the case with this.... whats odd is absolutely nothing happens when I try it cant even hear the solenoid trying to turn the motor or anything... can't be a fuse because the other one is working for some reason now!!!!! any one know what a regulator is? heard people talking about these but don't really have a clue about windows or electrics tbh
Hi, The term regulator is used for the guide rail(s), cable/drum and glass support(s), bolted into the door frame. The combined motor and control pcb/relay are mounted onto the regulator. There isn't actually much difference between the electrically operated regulator and the basic manual one, just the drive method. The regulator and motor assemblies are sold seperately, with the motor being the more expensive to buy new. (Matt, it looks as if the cable has broken on your pass. side unit.) Both front and (to a greater extent) rear door wiring harnesses are notorious for developing broken wires near the body pillar, inside the rubber trunking.
cheers dougie - any idea's why the broken one would suddenly start to work as soon as the other side decides to stop??? what could cause one to suddenly start working again whilst killing the other one??
Hi, Not right away. Each motor & pcb is pretty much self-contained. As you suspect, the circuit breaker added on top of the fuse box protects both/all the units. Both sides share much the same wiring, on a 2 door anyway. The only additional wire on the pass. side is the remote wire from the switch on the drivers' door.
also guys i found myself in the same situation.......its the switch mate, on the pass side i have to press the switch up then down for it go nce i have done that the switch is fine once the window is open try changing the switch mate, i think its a bad design really as when the window open and if water gets in it lands on the switches not rain tunnels on the roof...... hope its the swtiches for you mate pick them up from the scrappes easy i have a spare set too.....
well my window was stuck in the down position for a few months!!!! it was covered but maybe some water has got in and foooked the switch.... I will get one down the scrappy in soton when Im next there - cheers for that..... 87_UMN want to buy an electric window motor? lol
lol, im breaking that ABF car so i have n/s and o/s switches etc so just let me no if needed? good luck mate
nice one, I am going to try and bridge the switch manually just to get the window up but if this doesn't work expect a PM soon!!!! how much how much???
andypaterson i think it maybe the regulator or the cable has frayed, best replacing the lot or take it off and see if u can see any visual problems.....also try a new switch to the contacts in the switch could be faulty vbmenu_register("postmenu_1470510", true);
Jumpering the switch isn't the only way to close the window. If the motor works at all, holding the key in the 'lock' direction ought to raise the glass. In any case, the switch only carries a low current, and the contacts inside can be cleaned. Check for switch/wiring fault The switch can be by-passed quite easily to confirm if it's faulty. The thing about the o.e. switches of a mk.3 is that the motor current doesn't get anywhere near them; the wires would have to be much thicker. One terminal of the switch (#5 in a single switch) connects to a pcb input. Pressing 'Up' connects pin 5 to 12v (Red-yellow wire), pressing 'Down' earths pin 5 (Brown). A jumper from pin 5 to either of these should operate the motor, provided the pcb is active (ignition On, or less than 10 min after switching off, with drivers' door closed). In the drivers' door double switch, Pin 2 is used for the drivers' side, and pin 5 for the seperate remote input to the passenger side. The switches can get dirty inside. It is possible to take out the base and clean the brass/gold plated contacts, using brasso or tape head cleaner, etc.
