Engine Conversion Thread! (1.3 CE1 - 2.0L ABF)

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Jus'Golfin'Around, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    Not entirely sure if this is the correct place to be posting this, but I am soon to be changing the measly 1.3 out for an ABF.

    I've bought an ABF engine, box, loom, ECU and all ancillaries.

    [​IMG]

    I've got a few questions. I understand I need the MK3 GTi fuel tank? Also, I have an understanding that CE1 to ABF can be a pain. I also have a few questions regarding engine mounts? Also, clutch cables etc, wiring. Would I need MK3 Clocks? I'm pretty set on not having power steering too, I really am not keen, so what subframe would I need?

    I know I can trawl the web for most of this stuff, but I'd love a helping hand. It's gonna be a grubby, dirty, gravel drive conversion [:D]

    Cheers,
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2016
  2. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    The MK3 GTi gas tank, as a modular component, complete with a fuel injection fuel pump is easier to source. That is why.
    It is not the only way.
    Central Electric 1 to later Central Electric 2 is not a pain for those who know how. However for those like yourself who are willing to tackle the job yourself and require help, then having it the same makes it easier for advise to be given remotely.
    If you know what the wires supply and support on both ends, then it can be modified as required.
    You are going to run an 02J/A gearbox so shifter cables will be needed.
    Clutch cable can be a 1.3 manual job with a Seat manual clutch actuator or a hydraulic system, with supporting master and pedal box.
    MK3 Clocks are not required with an ABF/Digifant 3.X conversion.
    Good luck on no PAS. If you do get PAS, you need the rack and lines.
    Subframe and PAS rack can be from the doner, with MK2 wishbones, tie rods and GTI ARB.
    You would need larger brakes also.
     
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  3. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    Sounds like a MK3 fuel tank will be easy to get hold of. I'll take a look down the scrappy soon. How much work is it to convert from CE1 to CE2? I've heard people just splice them together? And a guy called rub Johnny who sells the looms already done?

    Hydraulic pedal box sounds like a pain, worth the hassle? Mine is currently manual, 5 speed.

    Currently running GTI 239mm front discs..

    Cheers for the help,
     
  4. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm in the process of a ce1 to ce2 swap on a build I'm doing. Not bad at all if you can get all of the bits together first. I got a complete loom (interior and front light loom) didn't need engine as using tdi loom on the conversion. Stripped old tape from it all, checked for broken wires/repaired as required then 2 rolls of tesa loom tape and re-wrapped :) not installed yet as it's being resprayed but it's not too bad of a job removing and refitting. Fuse box will be needed too and possibly the later column tube.

    As for manual steering I think most subframes will be ok. It's just a manual rack which fits the same as far as I remember. A different belt required if you're deleting it and the pump removed.
     
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  5. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    That's really handy mate, thank you.

    Is it necessary to change the loom or can I just splice the two together?

    Cheers!
     
  6. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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  7. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    That's a huge help mate, will probably just give it a go with that then, thank you!
     
  8. molegti Forum Member

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    ABF into ce1 isn't too bad once you get your head round it. Surprisingly little needs to go back to the fuse box. Your at a slight disadvantage to where I was not having a GTI as you'll need to wire in a fuel pump but its still not too bad.
     
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  9. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    In your position I would go power steering too....
    Jon
     
  10. blis Forum Member

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    Consider getting a few things on the engine sorted or checked too

    Coolant systems
    Water pump, thermostat, Radiator, fans, oil cooler, oil cooler hoses, front water flange.

    Electronics
    Crank position sender, idle switch, isv and other connectors

    Other
    Inner cvs, outers, brakes, k frame bolts, fuel rail fuel connectors, isv, ground wiring and main grounds. Steering column and keys.

    Get john to make a loom, ensure you wire in diag port and prep to insulate wires than run behind head near exhaust manifold.
     
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  11. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    Doesn't sound too bad. Would I be using the ABF fuel pump?

    I'm gonna rope in my dad who used to be a mechanic and he doesn't seem too bothered about splicing looms and what not.
     
  12. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    Couple reasons I don't want to, more hassle (having to setup pump, fluid reservoir, different subframe) and also I love to feel the road through the wheel and I know you lose that with power steering...

    How much trouble is it to fit and do I lose all road feeling?
     
  13. Jus'Golfin'Around New Member

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    Thank you for that.

    I should be picking up in a couple weekends, but won't be fitting til next year. Gonna port and polish the head, change all the gaskets, paint it up, and do a little service. Best do it when it's out and not 6 months down the road on the motorway...

    Radiator, I use a GTi from a MK2?

    Is that Rub Johnny who makes the looms? I got a few quotes of a facebook page and they quoted me 300 quid for a loom, with me sending the CE1 loom and ABF loom to them.

    I also, out of interest, got a quote off someone who does conversions. I explained I had everything for the conversion, just needed it fitting, got quoted 2300, crazy...

    Steering column and keys, I hear that I can use my original keys still?

    Cheers for everyone's help!
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Yeah I do the looms I'm just uber busy atm!

    I use MK2 1.8 8v rads in the ABF swaps I do as they are dirt cheap, readily available and more than capable of cooling the abf lump, you need all 3 hoses from 1.8 8v as well, plus swap the lower thermostat flange for a mk2 golf one for a straight fit on the lower hose. for the upper hose I find if you flip it the other way and cut down slightly its a much better fit, offer it up and you'll see what I mean.

    if you keep the car ce1 you keep all the inside wiring and ignition etc the same, you just need to add the fuel pump power feed to the fusebox. The red/yellow pump power comes from E/14, put a male spade on there too for your lambda heater power. thick brown earth goes to the fat white spade block on the lighting, and last 2 wires you can just splice to the carby level sender wires.

    if it has an immobiliser you just wire that up and hide behind the dash with key taped to the reader, or you may fidn the reader fits fine to the ignition lock just a case of do the plastics fit over. iirc someone said it was all fine? then just buy a mk3 golf blank chip key have it cut to the locks and swap the chip over.

    check these threads:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?233367
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?249714
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775

    also click the link in my signature and look for the ce1-ce2 excel spreadsheet
     
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