I have a ton of flex simulations that I cant post online because Im not allowed to, but I can say that the more rigid the bearing caps can be made, the better. The idea of having them flex as a unit is complete &*%$. Ill say it once more, if you want to do a really good job on it, get a cast girdle, if you want to do an ok job, fit the really thick cast iron plate as above(Cast is stiff and absorbs vibrations, thats why heavy machine tools are made from it) If you want just an ok job, fit the 12mm plate, if you want to just spend money, and think you have done good, buy the thin plate in the first post. Prof, some of us know exactly whats going on in there, thats in no way a sharp remark, or anything, Ive looked at/studied it for about 6yrs now for about 2hrs, every night. Look at any serious engine, and you will see 4 caps studs, and or a bearing girdle. Said bearing girdle does not have to be dry sump too, see my picture in the engtips posts of the Honda s2000 bottom end. Obviously, out of all the ones you could pick above, Id be having high rpm in mind, and I wouldnt have anything other than the best one in my engine, if I felt I needed it. Dont take that post as ''well hes a right tosspot'' LOL Its just what I see, and how I see it. Edit, @ Chris, Its possible yes, but would mean sawing off the skirt at crank centre, fitting sat an 90mm? thick ladder(cast alloy) and then tacking a normal sump to that.
it's all good Brian, you've spent much longer on this than i have and i'm very interested in all you've found. so please post any more findings.
I've not had as much time as i wanted on this one, I've got this far with oem parts -sort of Please remember I'm dealing with a 06A block one of the factory options looking at ETKA, Part : 06B 103 307 C listed as a frame, but also has the same picture against a set up on a engine which has a oil pump & intergrated balance shaft module within a workshop manual This one staying in the packet as it's going back this next one is more on the money 06B 103 307 E This one is fitted to the 2.0L FSI engines (Turbo and N/A?), without the reseach I believe the engine codes are the a 230PS version which has the stronger bottom end, could this be why (among other reasons?) it's only2.5mm thick (measured size) marked sections on initial inspection of it placed on the bottom of block Blue : not used holes (mounting points for balance shaft/oil pump?) Red : need of trimming (1 of my oil pump mount points, and close to untensioned oil pump drive chain) closer pic of area of rods 1 & 2 closer pic of area of rods 3 & 4 measured roughly from top of girdle to cap is 14.6mm I took this measurement to work out what to put in there, and how long of studs to find - ideally ARP my main though is to use this as a template if I'm going thicker how much would this one help compared to 6mm ?
