I have a 91 Driver auto which im using for the next few months, anyway i have been using for about 3 wks now and all is great with the car except its petrol habit, it did 240 miles on a full tank about 20mpg, less than my GTI! just put 46 litres in! i wouldnt mind if that went a little further!! the carb seem to have a manual choke installled on it at some point which works fine. also the are no connections to the green resevoir, or the little electrical solenoid thing mounted to the bulk head. what should the CO be set to? when i checked it before the MOT it was about 2% however i shortly after discovered that the inlet manifold to carb flange was fooked, i managed to pick the carb up without disconnecting any bolts, just the had the airbox off the top of the carb. sorry to be a bit vague about thing im used to 8v gti's
My EZ auto does 320ish miles to the full tank, its an 89 F with Weber 32/34 DMTL carburettor conversion. Could you have a Weber carb installed (manual choke and disconnected green ball suggest this). A Pierburg 2E2 bolts to the inlet manifold from the top with 3 bolts, the Weber is bolted around its base by four bolts A solenoid mounted on the bulkhead you say? Mine does not have this. Does it have vacuum connections as well as electrical connections, I think member EZ_Pete would be interested in this device.
yes it has two vac connections and two wires in one connection i think. the carb is still the pierburg, three long bolts that attach to the rubber/metal flange that is bolted to the inlet manifold by 4 bolts.
The green ball certainly needs to be connected for a Pierburg 2E2 to work properly. Have a look on the Pierburg 2E2 FAQ thread by rubjonny, it contains details of the correct vacuum hose layout and othe tests to fix this carb. I know more about Weber DMTL's than 2E2's I'm afraid, but Rubjonny and EZ_Pete know shedloads about Pierburgs.
if it has manual choke it must be a weber... you would be lucky to get 27- 30 mpg max. if it is the 3 speed auto
Hi drunkenalan, AFAIK the CO should be lower, at 1% +/- 0.5, but Haynes will tell you. This will account for a little of the thirst, but as you say, if you had a leaky flange when the 2% was measured, it'll be even higher now. Another thing that Haynes suggests as a cause of poor fuel efficiency is a leaking Power Valve, not hard to recondition. The bulkhead solenoid valve should be plumbed in, I think, for the automatic version of the vac 'wiring'. It means you have a 4-point unit instead of the 3-point unit. Not sure about this, you may find it amongst rubjonny's diagrams, or I can have a look later (it might be for aircon, do you have that?). Just creates an "increased idle speed". I'd be inclined to replace the vac hoses all round the carb, connect up as per diagrams, then get it on a MOT-station's gas analyser to set the CO up. If it's still overly thirsty after that, maybe consider the Power valve. Also, blocked air corrector jets may cause excessive fuelling due to a siphoning effect, which they are partly there to prevent. A good hosing with carb cleaner over the top surface and down the barrels, with engine at say 2K revs may clear stuff out.
ITS A PIERBURG!! with one of these kits fitted by the look of things http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300188327228&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=020
The extra solenoid valve you have looks like it may be item 112 in the following diagram, with the dotted line vac pipes. I expect I can find a better piccy at home, with English captions...At a guess, the switch (item 113) in the circuit to that valve is operated by the brake pedal, so when you take your foot off the brake, the idle speed increases, to take you into motion, rather than stalling.
just got home and took a few pics engine bay green ball area solenoid valve green ball no connections manual choke
Can't really see in any of those pics, but do you still have a 3/4 point unit (item 114 in the above diagram)? If you do it'll be down on the drivers side of the carb, towards the back. Possibly been made redundant and removed with the manual choke set-up, maybe that has some mechanism for holding a minimum idle? If this (3/4 PU) bit is missing, it'll make that solenoid valve redundant too. Looks like the pulldown unit (item 72) doesn't have the connection from the brake servo vac feed that would be teed off to the green ball, so that may be redundant too. Does it start without trouble?
it start fine with the choke cable about half way out once running i can push it back to about quarter of the way, and then in completely after about 1-2mins of driving. from what i can remember it doesnt have the 3/4PU, ill pop out and have a look, take some more pics in a bit. unsure about the idle mech, if this is missing, how else could it do it?
ooh 2e2 with a manual choke and really badly bodged up vac lines, nasty! I think you need to check the coolant channel o'ring, and fit all the vac lines as per my 2e2 faq, it has some nice vac diagrams for the carb unit itslef, but petes system diagram is much better than the haynes one I've got. In fact Pete if you don't mind I'm going to steal it and put it in my FAQ Edit: actually its not really any better, I can see from the haynes picture that valve is the 'increased idle speed control valve' fitted to auto models only
Stay calm! If it starts OK, and takes off OK with the autobox, there can't be anything too badly in need of attention w.r.t. the vac plumbing, I'd think. I suppose the manual choke kit is probably interacting with the primary throttle, as well as the choke flap itself, in order to replace the waxstat, 3/4-point unit and TTV system? If the kit's been well thought out, and correctly fitted, you shouldn't need to change anything, barring obvious 'open' vac nipples on the carb. I'd concentrate on cleaning, checking for damaged vac hoses, and getting it CO-checked/re-set and see how things are then.
i checked the co before mot and it was just over 2% but that was with a broken flange between carb and inlet manifold. now its fixed it may have altered plus i had a damaged breather from the rocker cover
To set the CO correctly the rocker-cover breather should be disconnected from the airbox, BTW. Did you find a 3/4 point unit?
ok sorry for the delay! it look like i have virtually nothing that i should have! a few more pics taken tonight after the wind managed to drop the bonnet on the back of my head!
Don't worry about bits you don't have, they can't go wrong . A thorough clean with carb cleaner, especially around the top surface and down the barrels may be all you need. Looks like there's ample grime there to be blocking air jets. Check also the vertical (air intake) slot at the base of the mixture adjustment turret, I think you'll find that's not as clean/clear as it might be.
hmm someone has had a field day messing about with that carb, its got half the bits missing, auto-choke removed and pretty much all the vac lines taken off
