FAQ:Common faults/questions on mk4 Golfs and Boras.

Discussion in 'Mk4' started by Collie, Feb 6, 2007.

  1. Collie Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2003
    Likes Received:
    66
    Location:
    Adlington Lancs
    This is a brief summary i have put together after 15 mins of doing searches.
    Hope its useful to all other mk4 owners and prospective owners..

    Rear beam bushes, they fail regularly at relativley low miles replace with new ones.

    Funny noise on start up. air con/climate,or starter motor usually

    Dump Valve, dont get one! Will force you car in to limp mode and make you look like a chav.

    Bigger brakes on a buget.if you have 280s use 312s carriers from later mk4 turbos
    and your existing calipers.

    Lowering you can only get away with 30mm drop before you have to start looking at a new
    arb, and possibly even adjustable drop links if your going very low.

    The badging doesnt mean anything really most of the time it was left to the dealers
    who propmtly forgot to do anything so cars are mis badged all the time.

    Poor running can be attrubuted to many things but MAF are also a common weakness with the mk4s.
    turbo flatspot (prob dodgy MAF), maybe dodgy coilpacks too.

    MAP sensors have been known to go also causing bad running misfires etc.

    How far can i go on std internals? The common concensus is about 300bhp before engine
    components start failing.

    Also keep an eye out for dodgy window operation,

    DV(diverter valve) failure n75 valve also cause limp mode

    Broken rear washer jet leading to tailgate lock/switch failure

    Headlight / side light bulbs are a mare to change.

    water pump (crappie plastic type) have a bad rep.
     
  2. thegolfman Forum Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2006
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Northampton, ENGLAND!
    Very good!!:clap:

    What spurred you on to do this?
    50 questions on mk4 bushes this week? :lol:
     
  3. Collie Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2003
    Likes Received:
    66
    Location:
    Adlington Lancs
    one broken foot and too much time on my hands.
     
  4. Seraph Banned

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2004
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    -5129' 57N-07 29W
  5. Collie Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2003
    Likes Received:
    66
    Location:
    Adlington Lancs
    Originally posted by SERAPH in another thread.

    Without doubt the 150 is obviously the more tunable, although many do say the 130 actually is due to less turboLag. Prob not much too choose between them in terms of longevity tbh, just maintain it sensibly, and it'll be fine.

    -Any mk4 buying guide is going to apply to the diesel in most respects apart from the engine.

    -The 100 is generally worth givin a miss, unless a complete steal. All comes back to a question of money too really.

    -The 130 is obviously the best compromise, although any of the models can be ecu mapped to add approx another 30ish bhp, while 115 still a competent choice too

    -Visually, 130 and 115 will look similar apart from alloys

    -150 can be identified by the centre rear headrest or huge intercooler if youre under bonnet. Ideally use the data sticker to verify the model - dont rely on boot badges.

    -Each model remaps differently, typically adding about 40hp (generic).

    -Choosing a bora is a good idea - much cheaper than the golf, but more or less same performance and spec. Sport/ Highline models one to aim for.

    -If you going for the bora, check mike's site out, which is very informative : http://www.borabase.com/

    -Some of the 'typical' things going wrong with mk4s include:

    Mafs,
    coilpacks,
    window regs,
    arb drop links,
    beam bushes,
    brake light switches,
    wiper linkage,
    master cylinders,
    washer lines,
    water pumps.

    -Check for regular cambelt changes - interval is 60k with later cars on 40k


    -Some FAQ concerning mk4s are:

    My car has flat spots when accelerating.
    Possible causes are a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, split turbo hose, faulty EGR or N75 boost control valves. These don’t always appear as faults on VAGCOM. MAF sensor appears to be the most common fault. Cleaning the MAF may help but ultimately, it needs replacing.

    How do I remove my OEM head unit?
    Cut a sturdy but no longer required credit card/plastic card into 1cm strips lengthways. Insert these into the slots located on the left and right hand lower sides of the HU and it will unlock and you can then remove it.

    My rear washer isn’t working.
    It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch.

    My car keeps stalling / misfiring.
    This could be caused by a faulty MAF sensor (again), temperature sender, relay 109 (diesels only), dirty throttle body, faulty coilpacks (petrol) or dirty contacts on the ignition amplifier.

    Relay 109 - the sure-fire sign is when you try to start the car, the glowplug lamp stays out. After a few tries, glowplug light comes on, car starts


    My window has fallen into the door.
    The plastic window regulator has probably failed. Repair kits are available, which contain metal clips.

    My central locking / door lock / alarm isn’t working.
    This could be due to a faulty door lock module. You might be able to repair the faulty door lock by re-soldering the connections. Some people seem to have success simply spraying with WD40. Otherwise, it's a case of having to replace it.

    My windscreen wipers have stopped working.
    The mechanism has probably seized. You can either replace the mechanism or strip it down, rub it with wet and dry and re-grease.


    There's a rattle when I accelerate.
    This usually means the front or centre exhaust mount has snapped,small amount of welding needed or you could try using some large jubilee clips.

    My cooling fans don't seem to be working correctly when the aircon is running.
    Unfortunately, this is another common fault on the MkIV. I THINK it mostly affects the models that have climatronic aircon. To check if your fans are faulty, Andymac recommends the following:

    1. turn engine on,
    2. turn aircon on,
    3. make sure ECON is "OFF"
    4. Check fans are running constantly IE for more than 1-2 minutes
    5. if the fans do nothing then run very fast, then stop after a minute or 2 or even 3 then you have faulty fans
    Fans

    My key-fob doesn't work
    Assuming that the batteries are ok, it's likely that the key has lost it's code. If you have 2 keys, put one in the ignition and turn on (I'd lower the windows, just in case!), manually lock the drivers door with the other key. Press either/both buttons on the remote (alarm should chirp). Manually unlock the door and turn the ignition off. It should now be coded.

    There's resistance in the steering followed by a strange twanging noise, especially when making slow, full lock manoeuvres.
    Strut top bearings possibly seized.

    Boot light doesnt work
    Possibly a blown bulb but more likely the rear washer hose has popped off and soaked the boot catch. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that doesnt like getting wet. Remove the boot lid cover by undoing a screw in each handle on the inside, then pull the plastic cover to unclip. The boot catch then comes out by undoing the 2 large spline bolts. Try drying the switch with a hairdryer after stopping the leaking hose, or ultimately replace the whole boot catch. Can also cause the alarm to act strangely.

    Heated mirrors don't work
    First check to see if your car has them! Pop the mirror glass out by getting your fingers behind the outer edge and pulling, if there are 2 wires attached then they are heated. They are activated by turning on the rear window demister. Check to see if there is 12 Volts across the 2 wires, and/or check the fuse. If there is 12 Volts there and the glass doesn't get warm then the mirror glass needs replacing.

    When I adjust the driver's wing mirror, the passenger mirror also moves but when I adjust the passenger mirror the drivers side stays still - is this a fault?This is a feature not a fault, for convenience when adjusting for different driver height etc. To adjust mirrors, move the drivers side first (R) and then adjust passenger side (L) if necessary

    The traction control light is coming on whilst I'm driving
    This might also throw an alternator fault code also. The light will go out if the engine is switched off and back on. Follow the 2 small wires from alternator to a connector at front of gearbox, the wires break at that connector.

    There's a clunking noise when I go over small bumps
    Possibly caused by worn Anti-Roll Bar bushes.
    __________________
     
  6. oak8vgti Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chester
    on the mk4 diesel engines, the glow plug warning light is on all the time

    check the brake lights, if you have 2 bulbs out it usually causes the glow plug warning light to come on

    if the brake lights are ok the its the brake light switch at fault

    Rear washer not working

    if you have checked the pipe to the back of the rear wiper motor and its connected the fault is at the top of the passenger side 'c' pillar, remove the 'c' pillar trim and at the top you will find the washer pipe connection, reconnect and refit the trims

    Cambelts

    If you do your own cambelt you will have to remove the engine mount on the drivers side, when refitting make sure you tighten it to 45Nm as they strip the threads easily if over tightened
     
  7. Supercharged Forum Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    3
    Plus the clutch pedal and/or slave failure...
     
  8. Teddy

    Teddy CGTI Regional Host

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2007
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Northampton
    My rear washer isn’t working.
    It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch

    With this one (it could also be) - if the pressure is very poor, they have a habit of "spitting out" the jet in the rear wiper.
    Purchase a new one from Vw 5.14 - job sorted.
     
  9. davidwort Forum Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    EGR faults

    2001 1.6 16v (AZD engine) similar to 1.4 16v and some slightly later 1.6 16v engines (2002-4) so probably applies to all the small 16v engines.
    Idle hangs high or hunts around, car eventually becomes undriveable with the throttle (drive by wire) not responding at all.
    EPC and engine check light come on, main fault recorded (only one if you clear all faults and run again) is 'barometric pressure implausible', suggesting MAP sensor is at fault, but it's actually an air leak caused by the EGR valve malfunctioning.
    So before you leap to change the MAP sensor or throttle body, blank of the EGR from the mounting point on the head... problem goes.
    This seems to be quite common on these engines and on the mk5 1.6 FSI too, it affects cars of all mileages not just 100K plus.
    It's worth removing and cleaning both throttle body and MAP sensor with carb cleaner as they get really gunked up from the crank breather and EGR fumes on these engines.
     
  10. DCDUB616 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2010
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi there, Could u elaborate abit about the dodgy window operation please. My drivers side window is abit dodgy, goes down fine but dont go up properly without some HELP.

    Any comment appreciated

    Dave
     
  11. ben-sears89 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2011
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    wales
    hi there, im new to the site, and i was hoping someone could help me with my problem.
    i have a mk4 1.8 20v gti (non turbo). and the fault i have at the moment is that today when i opened my driver's side door, then tried closing it again, the latch failed to catch, so i tried the passenger door aswell and it happened to that door aswell, thouht the rear doors are fine, what is the trouble shooting for this problem, bearing in mind it was -7 degrees last night, my friend seems to think that the temperature was at fault?? whats your opinion.??
    regards,
    Ben sears
     
  12. GILF1989 New Member

    Joined:
    May 10, 2010
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi, im looking at a mk4 1.6 16v and was wondering what the average price/difficulty for a cambelt change is thanks
     
  13. Mrrwest New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2012
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi, i have 1999 mk 4 golf 1.8t, when i put my foot down it doesnt pick up, really struggles, like theres a blockage or something. But if i feather the accelerater the speed does pick up. Any ideas before the local garage rapes me of the money i dont have? Cheers
     
  14. ljtennet New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Likes Received:
    0
    My golf seems to be gudering with little throttle (crawling) and idea what this could be? It's a 1.8t aum

    Any help would be much appreciated
     
  15. Danallkins

    Danallkins Forum Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2008
    Likes Received:
    24
    Location:
    Deal, Kent
    Sounds like a possible leak from a vac hose
     
  16. Danallkins

    Danallkins Forum Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2008
    Likes Received:
    24
    Location:
    Deal, Kent
    If you can, get someone with vagcom to realign the throttle body
     
  17. Red Mk2 Golf

    Red Mk2 Golf Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2011
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Midlands
    Indeed. I just got a Mk4 GTI 1.8T (150bhp), engine runs ok but three items on your list are already a problem on my new project. Also the darn bonnet wont close. The bonnet catch is broken. Any idea on how I could repair it?
     
  18. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Likes Received:
    472
    Location:
    Sligo, Eire
    We were looking for a Mk4 2.0 GTI but then I found out that the AZJ motors usually drink oil.
    On research, the 'Urban Myth' is that the Mexicans put the piston rings in upside down!
    I did not believe this until I searched on the Mahle website and found that the top 2 rings are tapered.!?!
    Why the FECK?

    As far as I can see there were 2 engines.
    The AZJ from Mexico.
    The APK from South Africa.
    Were APKs ever imported to the UK or Eire?
    Did they drink oil?
     
  19. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Likes Received:
    800
    Location:
    aberdeen
    why the 8v gti and not a gt tdi
     
  20. Dave

    Dave *Very Smart* Pedantic Old Fart Paid Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Likes Received:
    472
    Location:
    Sligo, Eire
    Because I would be so embarrassed driving a car with TDI on the boot.lol

    Much too complex and they run out of revs far too soon.:thumbd:
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice