Hi, i am doing a G60 conversion to my mk2 golf 1990 8v gti. I have got a rallye ECU / LOOM and Engine, obviously as it is a rallye loom i am going to have to extend some of the wiring but my question is which parts of both looms will i need to splice in to? and which wires can i get rid of completely? Also what is this plug used for? Cheers for any help
So where does the O2 sensor live? I have managed to get hold of a few pics from Rubjonny's thread and on his loom there is only 3 wires for it.
If your MK2 has the later CE2 wiring system and fusebox (as identified by it having a hazard switch on the column, not the dashboard) which I expect it is being a 1990 car, then it's a matter of removing the car's original engine loom completely, then just fitting the G60 loom and plugging it into the fusebox. Most of the engine loom connects to the fusebox via the G1 and G2 connections, so you'll find that you unplug G1 and G2 from the rear of the fusebox, remove engine loom, install G60 loom, plug in G1 and G2 connections. This is a big simplification as there will be a few other bits and bobs to deal with, but you get the idea. It's good that you've grabbed the G60 wiring diagrams; I was about to post these up for you. Far better to have schematics to hand than just guess your way through. However, what do you mean by "where does the O2 sensor live"? Do you mean where it's physically located? It needs to be located in the downpipe. You'll want to get a bung welded into the downpipe for the O2 sensor. Ensure the sensor is angled at at least 10 degrees up from the horizontal so that water doesn't collect in it.
Aaaahh now i understand, it's the Lambda sensor. I was going to go for a front pipe from Gwerks as it has the bung fitted. I'm running a Bastuk system with the front silencer pipe removed and just need the extra part to mate up with the down pipe.
Now for a few more questions! Are these the right wires in the right plug positions. The rallye loom is a '92 spec one. Plug F pin 1- red/black to starter motor 4- brown -earth to engine block 5- red/green to pin 1 on ecu 6- black/red- reversing light switch 7- black/blue - reversing light switch Plug G1 pin 3- red/yellow to pin 3 on ecu 4- black to ignition coil 5- brown/white earth on cylinder head 8- red/white to O2 sensor 10- black/yellow to pin14 on ecu Plug G2 pin 1- black/green FOR? 2- red/white for OAT 3- red/yellow for coolant temp send unit 10- yellow for engine oil pressure switch 1.8 bar 11- blue/black for engine oil pressure switch 0.3 bar Cheers for the help STEW
I've got a green/yellow wire from pin 24 of the ecu that is the tacho signal to cluster, do i need to connect it to the U1/11 pin or blank it off? Cheers STEW
depends if you have a mk3 or corrado cluster, thats what its for. if you have mk2 clocks you leave the rev counter wire to the coil like it is now
I'm fitting original central locking but need to know which plug and pin i need to connect the red wire to. Also i have the brown and the blue oil pressure sensors, but as i have another oil pressure sensing unit mounted to the oil feed from the side of the head(feeds the charger), which sensor don't i need to use? I am assuming that the pressure sensor i have mounted to the side of the head will accurately feed the oil pressure gauge that i am going to fit. Cheers STEW
should be a white sensort in the oil filter housing, and a brown or blue one on the side of the head. the central locking is easy, any permanent live feed will do but read my fusebox faq to find out where it is from the factory
I have stripped a Raddo loom to look exactly like the pic of the Rallye loom above, except I have 6 wires instead of the 3 and 4 wire plugs. Its in a 90 CE2 MK2 Golf I have removed the 8v digifant ECU and loom. This left a 6 wire plug. I have stripped a G60 Rado loom to just leave the ECU loom, like the Rallye loom above. Stand alone ECU if you like I have 6 wires in the ECU loom red/yellow injectors black/yellow ECU feed red/greeen 12v when cranking green rev counter yellow/blue fuel pump relay earth 6th wire - NOT A CLUE!!! I have connected the first 3 wires (they are same colours) not the 4th or 5th 4th not needed to run 5th because I'm not sure........ because I need to put 12v+ down the car loom to work the fuel pump If I earth it with power probe - nothing. No pump running...... I cant get car to run...... Injectors arent firing..... I've tried a 2nd fuel rail and nothing..... If I power 2ndr fuel rail with power probe it squirts fuel all over engine.... If I put volt meter in injector loom it gives me a pulsed reading when cranking.... Tried 3 ECU's, wonder if I fried them all now.... Any advice from anyone would be great......
First, here is a larger version of one of the above schematics. You can see things a lot clearer: http://www.vwcaddyforum.com/pictures/g60schematic.gif The "6 wires in the ECU loom" are presumably the wires that connect to the fusebox via the G1 / G2 connectors. Is that the case? Black / yellow: ECU positive supply. Should be +12V on this wire from the ECU relay during crank and run. Is this the case? Red / yellow: Injector positive supply, via injector/fuel supply relay which is energised by ECU yellow/blue wire. This red/yellow line should have continuous +12V during run and crank. Is that in place? Red / green: Should be +12V during cranking. As the loom is out of a Corrado which is going to be CE2 and as it's going into a CE2 Golf then haven't you just plugged the G1 / G2 connectors directly into the fusebox? I'm confused about why you have disconnected wires. Does the G60 loom have a proper earth return connection? If you get to the point where the injectors are firing (you hear them click) and spark plugs fire when cranking then you know that the ECU is alive and running; it only really needs power and a working hall signal get it alive and kicking. What do you mean by "powering ... with power probe" or "earth it with power probe"? You'll damage something if you randomly connect things to 0V or 12V in the hope that it'll work. Better to do things methodically using the above diagram and information. It may help if you post up detailed pictures of your loom and the various connections because it's not entirely clear from your post what you've done.
Hi Trev Car is a CE2 90 spec LHD MK2 When I've removed the digifant ECU and loom from the car, it has come out as a stand alone type loom with 1 x 6 pin connector by the ecu in the scuttle tray. My Rallye was similar but had a 3 and 4 pin connector. So, because the G60 Rado loom wouldnt fit the LHD MK2, I stripped the ECU loom from the g1, g2 connectors and made it stand alone. I have done it like this for K-Jet to G60 conversions. The 6 wires that then need connecting are as you said. In the car loom.... 12v ign fed - black/yellow 12v injector -red/yellow - this is live, but fuel pump not working. 12v cranking - red/green Green wire - rev counter These I have confirmed. Other 2 wires are red/white and the other I cant remember!! I will check in morning. These are both -ve when touched with power probe. If I power probe these 2 to +ve, fuel pump runs. I have only connected the first 3 wires to the ECU loom wiring. I have not connected power probe to ECU loom. I have placed a 2nd, spare, injector rail on top of engine. When I check wiring plug for injectors, from ECU loom, with a volt meter, 12v to red/yellow wire. Plug into injector rail and crank engine, no fuel from injectors. If I remove plug from injector rail and connect power brobe to both pins on injector rail and give it 12v, injectors spray..... This means injectors arent being opened by ECU. I have tried 3 ECU's, all the same. Is that explained better...??? Think its going to be something simple, but lookin for pointers of where/what to check next.... If someone in/near Northampton with a G60 could plug these ECU's in their car ti see if they are ok would be a big help..... Would confirm if its a wiring or ECU fault. Thanks, Gavin
Sorted it!! Went to bed and got up with a fresh head. Problem was trying to connect it to the existing 6 wires that were in the car. Connected ECU loom to where they should go directly....... Car started and ran [] So disconnected wires 1 by 1 and joined them to loom in car to see which was problem. Car wouldn't run when connected red/yellow wire for injector rail...... When I measured the voltage it was only 10.4v when cranking.... So, ran a separate wire and car ran. Sort of...... I had to bridge the fuel pump relay as ECU wouldnt trigger it so I wired a separate relay to back feed power down the wiring loom in the car and now everything is SCHWEEEET... [:yahoo:] Last conversion I did was on k-jet so fuel pump was not controlled by ECU and didnt give this problem. Bring on the Rallye Show!! Gonna run it this week on short local journeys, work and back etc then at the weekend put a smaller pulley on, the chip in the ECU and give it a full service..... By the way, car is an Oak Green, LHD, 39k km from new MK2 with factory Digifiz Was only an 8v though so needed a bit of blow..... [:ninja:]
sounds liek you missed the fuel pump relay earth trigger wire, pin 3 of the ecu sometimes red/yellow sometimes blue/yellow. thisd goes to g1/3 on the fusebox and is a red/yellow wire on the old digifant wiring loom. injector power on the old loom is probably red/black if its same as euro spec edit: red/white in the old loom is fuel pump live for the lambda heater
