Help needed with bike carb/trigger wheel/crank sensor on a DX engine install

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by Bigbeech76, May 20, 2021.

  1. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    1,007
    Any backfires, or smell of fuel, could you just loosen a union and get someone to crank for a second to see if fuelling?
    Used to have a hand soap dispenser with petrol in to put a squirt in carb mouths when messed with minis years ago, or a spray of wd40 even.
    Could be 90° out possible?, swap the leads or the coil trigger wires.
     
  2. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    1,233
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    Did you mark tdc on the bottom pulley, and shine a timing light on it while cranking?
     
  3. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    Hello Tristan,

    Yes done all of that and all of the basic engine checks, like I say i'm really scratching my head with it.

    I bought the car as project and have been back over everything, the crank TDC mark has been checked against the flywheel marks, the cam timing is all correct.

    I'm not a mechanic but have a good understanding of engines, I've rebuilt a couple of KR's in my time but not had many dealings with the 8v's.

    It can only be fuel or timing and I haven't done anything mechanically to affect the fuel pump/fuel regulator to the carbs.

    I just want the bugger on the road.
     
  4. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    1,233
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    Checking with the strobe is ignition timing, but no matter. So the strobe flashes onto the tdc mark?
    Definitely fire a squirt of juice down the inlets and see if it tries to go.
     
  5. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    Right, I’ve made some progress…..

    I’ve bought some easy start today and it has attempted to fire up so one of the wires from the hall sender/coil configuration must be needed to tell the car to start.

    There are still three wires which did connect to the coil that are disconnected. A green, a black and a red/black.

    looking on Cabby info.com the green was terminal 1 and the black is terminal 15 on the coil.

    I know I can jump the pins on the fuel pump relay (which I will do to get it running in a minute) but I need to know what I should do for a permanent solution.

    Is it something simple like connecting the black and the green?
     
  6. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    After a day of messing it’s finally running again.

    I’ve tried to jump the fuel pump across the two big pins but this is not letting the pump run constantly. I thought it would?

    To get it operational in the short term, I’ve bolted the old coil back on (without HT leads) and connected the wiring back together between that, the TCU and the hall sender on the dizzy.

    It’s finally firing up on the button and I can access the nodiz separately.

    I need to get to the bottom of the wiring issue so all the extra cables can be removed but happy it’s starting on the button now


    I think I’ll let a specialist sort the rest….
     
  7. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    1,233
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    Why not just wire the fuel pump externally?
     
  8. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    I don’t really fancy doing that, I had it switched on my old 16v conversion years ago and I burnt a pump out eventually.

    it should be easy enough to bypass the coil once I have the tacho controller from the nodiz
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,382
    Location:
    Bracknell
    assuming its a CE1/2 fusebox swap a 17/18/100 relay into fuel pump socket, then pump will run with ignition. if its still intermittent then you have a bad fusebox or the fuel pump wiring is bad.

    for the coil wiring you should have at least 1 black wire to pin 15 from fusebox which is your ignition live, and if running a TCI-H module that has a black from that to the coil as well.

    coil negative the green will be the spark trigger from ecu, and your red/black is rev counter signal back to the fusebox. if you have a kjet fuel relay you need the red/black to trigger it as well as run your rev counter
     
  10. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    Cheers Jonny,

    I've got a feel that the wiring might have been altered but I've also got my head around the bypass solution as you mention.

    My next battle is to stop it running like a bag of cr4p. Fuel filter change and checking for exhaust/inlet leaks is the next job.
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,382
    Location:
    Bracknell
    next thing to look at is your rev counter, if thats not working then your kjet fuel relay wont either :)
     
  12. Bigbeech76 New Member

    Joined:
    May 20, 2021
    Likes Received:
    2
    A bit of an update on this post in case it helps anyone in the future.

    I managed to get the car running pretty well a few months back and its finally been for a rolling road set up last week.

    The wiring issues have been sorted, I'm still running the original wiring via the existing coil as this controls the fuel pump and rev counter but will shortly be replacing with a 3 or 4 way 30amp relay and an electronic output for the rev counter.

    I found a handy youtube guide to setting up the Nodiz electronic ignition to get a base timing map set up and it ran ok-ish and was driveable for a month or so.

    The rolling road tune at DanST engineering in Bradford was a complete success though and I'm finally enjoying the new found power.

    The car did a base run and made 102bhp, however a morning spent fiddling with the electronic timing settings, carb jets and other things saw a final result of 122bhp/138 lb ft torque. The engine is a 1870cc overbore running 1999 Suzuki GSXR 600 SRAD carbs and a 4-2-1 manifold.

    This was with a blowing/mismatched exhaust and 95 ron fuel (thanks to the fuel crisis) so with the new Jetex stainless system on its way i'm confident of a tiny bit more power.

    Just a shame its taken until Autumn to sort but there is always next year to enjoy it properly.
     
    dodgy likes this.
  13. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    1,233
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    Fair play for the update.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice