Hi, Am based close to Wolverhampton in West Midlands. Am trying to put back on road a tracked Mk1 GTi which has had the wiring butchered. Have replaced relays, new fuse box and looms have been repaired professionally. Still will not fire up. Lights, indicators, horn all work. Can anyone recommend an auto-electrician who knows Mk 1's and could get to check it over for me. Any suggestions very welcome. Thanks Phil
If you were local I might have been able to pop over. have you got any life from the fuel pump? any voltage at the coil? does rev counter jiggle when cranking over? do all the warning lights come on with ignition? take a piccy of all the relays in your fusebox, in case some have been misplaced.
Hi, Again, many thanks for your help. Fuel pump alive and well, good spark. Picture of fuse box attached, Also picture of instrument cluster which looks like the correct one. What is that bit of circuit flapping about on the back? Is it important and is there anything missing? Have checked some of the wiring and found as follows. 1. The connections in the instrument binnacle plug all seem to do what they are intended to do. 2. Side, tail and number plate lights all work. 3. Headlights work both dipped and main beam. 4. Fog lights both front and rear work and warning lamp on switch comes on (albeit a bit dim) 5. Horn works 6. Front wipers and screen washers work ok. 7. Rear intermittent wipe and wash works. 8. Hazard warning lights work and switch light flashes ok. 9. Interior lights both work (switches on both doors). 10. Radio works. 11. Parking lights both left and right work ok. It seems to be just the instrument binnacle that is the problem. Dash illumination, clock, handbrake light do not work. Hope that helps Thanks again
the flappy bit is for the addition of a sensor and plug housing for the vehicle speed signal, which will enable cruise control plus speed sensitive volume control on the high end aktive stereo systems. in short, dont worry about it for a start the relay in slot 2 is incorrect for your fusebox, this is an early ceramic fusebox type and the terminals are too small for the CE1 fusebox socket. it'll work, but its not ideal in the long run so you need one of these depending if you have/want a rev limiter in the fuel relay or the rotor arm: (Vw relay number / vw part number / kracker part number / GSF part number 2 = 443906059A/321906059D/E = no limiter (superceeded by 321906059F) 3 = 443906059 = no limiter (superceeded by 321906059E/F) 62 = 443907385B/321906059G / 24.1400.30 & 3.300.220 / ? = 6.5k limiter 63 = 321906059F / 24.1400.20 / 935VG0090 = no limiter you also dont need a relay in slot 1, thats only for digifant ECU, and relay slot 4 is for the early MFA mpg/upshift, 21 is a hazard relay so you want to pull that out. Everythign else looks ok, but confirm the part number of the relay in slot 12, this is for the indicators so is where 21 should be. but the relay thats in there now is probably just an older type indicator relay if the indicators and hazards work fine now. With the clocks if the dash loom was originally for a car with MFA cluster, there is an earth for the clocks to the side of the head. near the fusebox you'll find a male spade on the dash side, then on the engien loom there should be a female spade which plugs in then goes to the head. If its not there you can earth the dash loom connector to the claw above the fusebox instead if you want. check fuse 3 for the digital clock, radio and ciggy lighter is ok, plus fuse 18 for the handbrake light. For the MK1 the handbrake light loom is seperate from the main loom run, the ignition live black wire goes to the G spade 2 on the rear, and the green/white earth runs to a spade with a blue/brown wire from hanging from A/15 which is where the handbrake switch wire plugs in: http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775 as for the engine starting, if you have good spark that leaves timing, fuel and compression. Check the timing belt and rotor arm is lined up properly to TDC as per my digifant guide, obv ignore all the setup procedures: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?124949 once happy with the timing make sure the compression is good, then for basic kjet checks follow my 16v guide. ignore all the fancy 16v stuff and also check for fuel pump live at the AAV as well as the WUR: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?195423 for the idle and co this is done with the engine idling when warmed up. basic ignition timing is set to 6 degrees BTDC with the dizzy vacuum line disconnected and plugged, you line up the big diamond as shown in the 2 guides above. Then once happy everything is tip top, you can tune it from there, usually can get a fair bit more advance with decent fuel
John Thank you for all the information you have provided Will follow it through and let you know how I get on. Your assistance is very much appreciated Phi
