Help .... Please

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Louis_Cleaver, Oct 12, 2019.

  1. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Hi,

    I started a build job several years ago, I stripped the car and then had children, Well she’s 6 now and I feel like I can Carry on with the car.....


    Problem being I have forgotten where a lot of the bits go....

    can anyone help identify this cable, it’s located near the fuse box in a 97 AGG colour concept mk3, I started a 20v18T conversion and aim to complete it but I have fuelling issues. i can’t attach the picture for some reason,


    It’s a black 3 pin clip.

    With
    A black and green cable
    A black and white cable
    And a purple and white ?



    I suspect fuel pump/pump relay issues and have several codes but the fuel send and return line are dry....

    Any assistance would be appreciated thank you
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    hello there, this plug is the connection to the cluster for the indicator warning lamps and mpg signal from the ecu. 1 half will be hanging out the back of the clocks, the other half will be tapped into indicator wires on A1 and A2, and mpg signal comes from the ECU. I've heard mixed info whether the MK4 signal will work right, can always give it a go :)

    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...install-faq-now-with-added-dieselness.267196/
     
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  3. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Brilliant, Thank you. ill have to take a look at removing the clocks again then. Thanks again for your help. I'm sure Ill discover a few more things as I go on with this project, naively started it thinking it would take a weekend.....
     
  4. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    I assume that would be related to the code i got > 18058 Powertain Data Bus: Missing Message From Instrument Cluster..
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    no need to remove the clocks, you should be able to dig the cluster side of the plug from underneath. its the engine loom side you probably need to find!

    this is unrelated to the cluster code in the ecu thats because it cant talk to the mk4 ecu any more, doesnt affect engine running but you can have this coded out if it bothers you. Can also sort any SAI codes and other missing things you've deleted at the same time
     
  6. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    [​IMG]

    That was the wire in question.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    ok that is the plug coming out of the clocks, so you need to find or add the mating plug to your engine/lighting loom :)
     
  8. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Hi,

    Can I just splice them directly as mentioned in your previous reply ?

    I also have a 2 pin yellow block in the front of the engine bay by the powersteering pump ? (looks like both wires are yellow) I dont suppose you can shed any light on them ?
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    I wouldnt splice direct as then you wouldnt be able to split the engien and clock looms in future without cutting the wires. have a look at your A1 and A2 plugs, the mating side of the plug comes from the black/green and black/white wires here, and might still be there just tucked away where you cant see

    2 pin yellow plug with 2 yellows is the dimdip resistor, not sure exactly where it is in a mk3 but its a ceramic thingy about the same size as a pack of polos. dont need it plugged in by law or for mot, just make sure the wires are tucked up safe as if they short out your headlight loom will go up in smoke!

    you can unplgu the dimdip wires behind the fusebox if worried, look for 2 single plugs with yellow wires disconnect these and you can rest easy
     
  10. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Thank you again, Ill take a look at these tonight when I get home. I really appreciate your help.
     
  11. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    I’ve blocked off the dim dip cable and hidden, I couldn’t locate those other wires to connect though so I’ll make do with out them.

    can you tell me how to identify which lambda sensor is pre and which is post cat ?

    I think I’ve gotten to the bottom of the fuelling issue to, conlog immobiliser system being intermittent, by passed the relays and starter wires to test, and seems good.
     
  12. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Saying that I might be able to work it out based on available cable length so I’ll look tomorrow.
     
  13. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Ok so took a look today...
    Just turns over doesn’t fire, it’s like the injectors are not working. Short to ground errors mentioned in scan.

    the fuel is making it from the pump as expected, the injectors all read 11.9 ohms there is low voltage at the injector rail, only reads about 4 volts.

    the car sparks and will run if easy start is sprayed into the maf.

    I have checked all fuses and relays all seems to be ok?

    Is there anything else I can check? Could I have missed a ground cable somewhere ?

    I just run a scan on the car and have several short to ground errors, and it mentions all four injectors?

    it mentions

    cam shaft sensor short to ground - P1530
    O2 sensor short to ground P1117
    N75 short to ground - P1547
    Fuel injector P1225 - P1226 - P1227 - P1228
    I bypassed the fuel relay as a test - so got P1541 fuel pump relay open.


    I also have P1649 powertrain data ABS controller
    Crash signal P1523 implausible
    P1659 instrument cluster Powertrain data missing
    N80 open circuit - expected as N80 is removed
    P1433 SAI expected also as removed.
    P1432 N112 also expected as removed.


    I appreciate it’s a lot of errors, I feel like I’ve probably made a bad earth somewhere? Or I’m missing some thing, as the majority of them have the same error?
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    what code is the ecu? if its a wideband dead easy to tell pre-cat lambda as its 6 pin, post-cat is 4 pin. if its narrowband ecu the pre-cat lambda usually has black and green twisted pair wires to it, but let me know the car/engine code the loom came from so I can double check that.

    next step carefully check all of the wiring to make sure there's no damage, plus you've got everything plugged in where it should be. the N75 is usually yellow/black and green/brown. if it all looks good clear all the fault codes then see what comes back

    last batch of codes are all to be expected, if you send ecu off to clued up coder they can all be removed :)
     
  15. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    I pulled the conlog alarm and immobiliser from the car and now them short to ground as appear to have gone.

    the cars AUM engine Ecu is me7.5
    06A 906 032 HJ

    I’ll have them coded out just wanted to get it running first so I know where I’m at with it.

    intrestingly it still doesn’t fire, i imagine it’s rare but is it likely all 4 injectors are shafted?

    I checked ohms on them and they all read 11.9 ( I thought they should be about 14.5)

    they all have low voltage pin to pin 3.4volts

    but when cranked increased to 12v. I have checked the plugs and they are completely dry. I’m not convinced fuel is getting through but didn’t want to buy more injectors with out confirming the ohms.

    The engine has been sat for a number of years but under the bonnet in a garage so always been dry.

    Likeni say it’s not timing or coils or plugs as it runs on easy start.

    when I press the accelerator I can hear the actuator in the throttle body.

    I haven’t removed the injectors as yet to check for spray pattern. But intend too Once I can confirm clogged or knackered injectors.

    as for the lambdas I do have one four pin cable and on larger chunkier block one too.
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    ok easy peasy then, its a wideband ecu so pre-cat lambda is the 6 pin plug cant go wrong.

    its not unheard of for injectors to fail while out of a car though uncommon, a friend of mine had all 6 die in his 24v conversion somewhere between removing the engine and installing in his which I thought was pretty unlucky :lol:

    double check you have the feed and return lines on the right way round to the rail, if you have 12v on the live pin to the injectors while cranking thats all good as well. fact it runs on easy start suggests ecu is happy, it just needs some fuel!
     
  17. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    The fuel rails have arrows on where the pipes join.

    this is how I have it connected.

    Lower fuel rail pipe is the supply line, this connects to the black plastic pipe from the car tank.

    The higher fuel rail line is the return this connects to the blue plastic pipe from the tank.

    Definitely feels like a fuel problem / injector problem.
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    yep thats all fine then. if you've got pressure at the rail you can jump an injector with 12v and earth to get it to spray, obv need the rail removed to perform this check so try that after you've popped the injectors into containers and cranked it to see if they do anything (disconnect coils to prevent spark)
     
  19. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    I’m not certain on the what the pressure at the rail is. But I guess my next thing is to remove the injectors as you say and test the spray(if there is any) I may have to get a inline fuel pressure meter so I can make sure the pressure is suitable.

    Hopefully I’ll find time this week. I’ll update you.

    thanks again for you help. You have been a massive help and reassurance in my testing.
     
  20. Louis_Cleaver New Member

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    Hi,

    I’ve just ordered a in fuel pressure test kit, so I can be sure the pressure is there, I know fuel is definitely making it into the rail but can’t be certain the pressure is high enough.

    I will check when it arrives hopefully tomorrow and also take the rail off and check for spray.
     

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