Ok I think the pull down unit may be defective as the flap is moving back while im sucking on the tube! I have got another 2e2 which was botched up into a manual choke, I'll check if the pull down unit on that is ok, but I don't know how to remove the pull down unit.
Ok so I need a new pull down unit, i've got an account with gsf, but they only list a 'CHOKE PULL OFF DIAPHRAGM'. Is this the same thing as the pull down unit?
See post number 3 in here for removal/replacement instructions. Also may be worth checking for airleaks at the carb mounting flange, as this is another common problem due to perishing rubber. A way to do this is to have the engine idling at full operating temperature, then simply rock the top of the carb around gently in all directions, while listening for changes in revs that might indicate a poor seal between manifold and carb. You probably need to undo the front airbox fastening if you do it with airbox still clipped down to carb. Edit, yes, that GSF description sounds like the right part.
Cool, I'll get that ordered asap, Im very surprised that my car has been running at all in the cold weather we've had rescently.
Ok I've got the new pull down unit but, it is acting in the same way as my old one! I am sucking on the lower pipe and blocking the top hole but the lever doesn't stay pulled in when I block both holes.
If I get a chance this evening, I'll scan the relevant page of a VW 2e2 test document that I have. I'm 99% sure that the tests they suggest for the pulldown unit amount to exactly what's on here. You may have been sold a duff one, I reckon. Edit: here you go... The whole test procedure runs over 3 pages, and I can't be bothered to scan it all, but if it fails this last stage, it has to be leaking, IMHO.
Thanks for the help Pete. I have installed the pull down unit in my car and now the car seems to be worse than before . I drove my car at 3am this morning and it hesitated to rev high for a few seconds (where as before it would always rev high straight away for a few seconds when cold). Also the car cuts out when luke warm if I come up to a junction to slow down and change gear, also its a bit hard to start the car when its luke warm. I have found a jetta with a 2e2 on it, the guy said it was running fine. Would it be worth taking it off, the car has done 90k? Maybe I could use parts off it....
If it's free, or nearly so, have it. I wouldn't be surprised if you found something on it that could be worth having, hopefully a working pulldown unit! I would suggest you test it before removing it though, I've got a box of four 2e2s that I got for nearly nothing a couple of years ago, and none of the pulldown units worked, nor any of the waxstats.
Ok I got the 2e2 off the jetta and I am now 20 quid lighter. I just hope when I fit it it will make a difference.
Ok I have fitted the new carb and its seems better, when it was cold it was reving higher and eventually when the temp gauge was near the middle the car seemed to be idling nice and low, but its hard to tell without a rev gauge.
Been having probs trying to get the wifes mk2 driver ticking over right,loosened off the throttle cable,which came out the rubber bung 7.30 Fri morn,she was not happy,had to drive it up onto the verge,as traffic was bad.Put tension back on cable,and bent the little hook a bit as it had opened up. Have spent today trying to sort out the vac system,pipe that goes into the pipe that comes off the servo,was blocked with a bolt,and only 1 pipe into the ballcock,so sorted that out,and replaced all the old leaky pipe with new silicon stuff i had,runs a bit better,adjusted the threaded shaft that rests on the plunger thing on the side,by about 1 cm. Think this car has had a few bodges done to it through its life,i think they have tried to compensate faults with the vac system,by adjusting other stuff.can`t for the life of me find the tickover adjustment screw. Had probs with the waxstat coming on when the car is hot,tried to stop the flap moving with a cable tie around the shaft,but that caused choke #2 to stay open at full throttle !! So i have unscrewed the butterfly,not sure if it will still overfuel without the flap in place or not,seems ok,it dies a couple of times when it`s cold,but it eventually sorts itself out.. had a little wash and polish today,and fitted the p slots,which came off my rocco.On closer inspection the paintwork is not 100%,t cut should sort out the cloudy patches,and overspray.
A general point first, to you and dj singh: It's much better to start your own thread (don't be shy!) rather than adding into an existing thread, unless the problem(s)/symptoms are identical. It's very confusing to readers if several different problems are being addressed within one thread, with one title. Anyway, to Mr D: I presume that you meant that you adjusted the screw that pushes on the 3-point unit plunger by 1mm, not 1cm? The proper adjustment for the fully-warmed-up idle speed is a 13mm nut round the back of the 3-point unit. Shown in rubjonny's 2e2 FAQ, item 13 in this diagram: The waxstat has no influence whatever on the choke flap, so I don't understand what you're saying there. Removing the choke flap will not affect full-temperature running, but will make the engine hard to start (from cold) and seriously underfuel during warm up. Go to the carb FAQ area, and read the first post or two in rubjonny's brilliant FAQ thread, and solve each problem as it becomes apparent, one by one.
Ah right sorry,feel free to move it . Yes i did move that shaft quite a bit,is that bad ? should i put it back to where it was ? Cheers for pointing out the idle screw,will try and get to that tomorrow. The choke flap was still closed with the engine hot,it kept closing,causing the car to run like a sack of pap,so just took the flap off,as it was doing my head in,wife does about 500 miles a week in the car,and it was eating fuel.
Were you trying to increase or decrease the idle speed by moving the screw? I'd imagine you may need to move it back near to where it was once you solve the underlying problem. If the choke flap doesn't open fully once the engine is up to temperature, the problem is very likely lack of coolant flow through the housing of the autochoke (nearside of carb, two water hoses coming up onto it). As suggested in the FAQ check how hot that housing gets to the touch when the engine is at full operating temperature. It should make you go "ouch!" or words to that effect, if the coolant flow is OK. Unfortunately, if it is only lukewarm or cooler, the fix isn't easy, but is all detailed in rubjonny's FAQ. The waxstat wil also fail to regulate the warm-up idle speed correctly if the coolant flow is inadequate. The 3-point unit should only be affecting the idle speed during the first few seconds during/after cold-start, and at full operating temperature. The waxstat controls it during the warm-up phase. If the waxstat doesn't get hot enough with coolant flow, it may never hand over control properly to the 3-point unit at full temp.
Yeah i unscrewed it ,to try and slow the idle a bit,i have just been going through stuff trial and error . Should have looked on here to start with. Could be a lack of coolant also,the header tank is filthy,i have just been topping it up so it fills the inner tube bit,but 9 x out of 10 when i do it it`s by torchlight,as my wife works such long hours,i don`t often see the car in the light. Cheers for the help,and thanks for the guide,very helpfull.
Thanks for the help Pete, I might start a thread if this carb starts giving me hassle, it seems to be much better than the others, but still not perfect. I will read through all the faqs again to try and really understand the 2e2.
Sounds like your 20 wasn't wasted. See how it goes, if there's anything that's seeming wrong/broken, we're here to help. You should be able to swap bits around off your various carbs until everything's healthy, with a bit of luck. If you haven't got one, a cheap multimeter is a handy thing to have to check out voltages and resistances on all the electrical bits of these carbs. Don't need to spend a lot (5?); a basic one that does Volts and Ohms is adequate for most jobs, and high precision is unnecessary.
